Match of the week
-1712048043-0.jpeg)
White onion and cheddar tart and Mayacamas chardonnay
I was really spoilt for choice with wine pairings at Claridges last week. (It’s not often I get to write a sentence like that …)
When you eat in their restaurant you can choose a bottle to go with the meal from the enviable selection in the shop downstairs, the only problem being settling on which one.
One solution is to work out roughly what you have in mind to eat before you go down there, a decision made rather easier by choosing from the very good value (for Claridges) set price lunch or pre-theatre. menu which is £49 for two courses or £58 for 3.
My companion, fellow winelover Barry Smith and I worked out that if we chose a red we would go for the ballotine of confit duck and the lamb navarin while if we chose a white we’d opt for the white onion and cheddar tart and Cornish brill with clams and seaweed butter.
In the event we discovered from head sommelier Emma Denney that they also had a 2018 Maycamas chardonnay from the Napa Valley on by the glass which meant one of us could have the tart and the other the ballotine with the bottle of Domaine 2005 Blagny La Pièce sous le Bois, a lesser known and comparatively modestly priced burgundy Barry had spotted on the shelves.
It also went really well with the navarin but the standout match for me was the chardonnay and the cheddar tart.
I’ve tried chardonnay with cheddar before but this wine, which had a wonderfully refreshing acidity you don’t always associate with Californian chardonnay, took the pairing to another level.
You can also buy it by the bottle from Claridges Wine Cellar for £75 (at the time of writing) which is great value given it’s £50 by the glass and read about it here,
Next time you have cheese and onion quiche think chardonnay …
See also The Best Wine Pairings for Cheddar Cheese
And for other chardonnay pairings The Best Food to pair with Chardonnay
I ate at the restaurant as a guest of Claridges

Stilton quiche and white burgundy
This week’s match of the week is the perfect illustration that you shouldn’t be led astray by your basic ingredient.
You drink port with Stilton, right? Not when it’s made into a quiche when the fact that it’s combined with onion, bacon and cream is more important when it comes to choosing a wine.
And the fact that you’re likely to be having it as a starter or main course rather than at the end of a meal.
I had a bottle of white burgundy open - Domaine Dampt Chevalier d’Eon Bourgogne Tonnerre 2019 - that I’d been tasting which went perfectly, echoing the creaminess of the filling. In fact it’s a good recommendation on its own account. The vineyards lie just outside the Chablis region which is reflected in the price (£15.49 or £13.89 if you mix 12 or more, from Averys and Laithwaites.
I made a similar quiche a few years back that I paired with a Fleurie and that went really well too.
Incidentally the quiche was part of my self-imposed ‘giveupstockingup’ challenge this month during which I’m trying to live off my fridge, freezer and storecupboard.
For other suggestions as to what to drink with white burgundy see here

Stichelton and onion quiche and Fleurie
A simple lunch of quiche from leftovers thrown together from the fridge turned into a feast with a glass of Claire and Fabien Chasselay's Fleurie La Chapelle des Bois, an organic Beaujolais from the excellent 2009 vintage.
It's easy to fall into the trap of thinking Stilton or Stichelton (the unpasteurised version I used) is so strong that it needs a sweet wine or a fortified wine like port, but in a creamy quiche, offset by onions, it will easily work with a crisp white wine or a light red like this. You also always need to take any accompanying salad into account - ours was a simple green one with a classic vinaigrette which also pointed to a wine with some acidity. This delightfully fresh and fruity Beaujolais, which you can buy for £13.25 from Vintage Roots, hit the spot just perfectly.
It seems to me there's a bit of a Beaujolais revival at the moment - I'm sure I've seen more about Beaujolais Nouveau this year than I have for a long while. And it's still huge in Paris, even among the natural wine movement, as this evocative post from Bertrand Celce of Wine Terroirs testifies. But with the 2009 vintage still around and some charming 2010s I'd stick to the real McCoy.
Most popular
.jpg)
My latest book

News and views
.jpg)


