Match of the week

 Black truffle and fontina pizza and Puligny Montrachet

Black truffle and fontina pizza and Puligny Montrachet

It’s easy to get into a mindset with food and wine pairing where you automatically revert to a tried and tested combination. Like pizza with Peroni or a Sicilian red

But with the incredible number of variations on pizza toppings these days maybe we need to be a bit more adventurous and my experience at the newly opened Jean-Georges at the Connaught last week suggested just that.

One of his pizzas (for which you pay a princely £29) is topped with fontina cheese and black truffles. Frankly lager would be wasted on that, ditto most run of the mill reds by the glass. A Barolo maybe or a glass of champagne but neither I suspect would compare with the quite stellar 2014 Bachelet-Monnot 1er Cru Puligny Montrachet (Hameau de Blagny) which was picked by sommelier Raffaele Silvestre and was just sublime. White burgundy and pizza - who knew? (Try it at home with a mushroom pizza and a drizzle of truffle oil)

PS Lucky guests at the Connaught can actually order the pizza on room service - it apparently arrives in a box. So if you win the lottery you know what to do …

*Actually you can also order it to take away although that that rather misses the point. Part of the fun (and the price) is to get to eat it at the Connaught - in fact if you're minded to go I'd go just for that. And/or the extraordinarily good crispy sushi!

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I ate at Jean-Georges as a guest of the Connaught.

Langoustines and caviar with Faiveley’s Puligny Montrachet 1er cru La Garenne 2009

Langoustines and caviar with Faiveley’s Puligny Montrachet 1er cru La Garenne 2009

A celestial combination I enjoyed at a burgundy dinner at the Grand Hotel de Bordeaux last week. Burgundy in Bordeaux? Yup - I guess they want to ring the changes from time to time but it does seem heretical.

It also seems on the face of it an unlikely combination particularly with red burgundy but the way the chef Pascal Nibaudeau got round it was to incorporate caviar (Caviar d’Aquitaine from Sturia) into other burgundy-friendly dishes.

This dish, for instance, owed as much to the accompanying sweet, fat langoustine, risotto and creamy, delicately saffron-flavoured sauce as it did to the caviar although the caviar certainly accented the beautifully pure, crisp Puligny perfectly.

Incidentally I found this interesting description of the background to the wine from Haynes, Hanson Clark who sell it for £48.90 a bottle.

"This is only the second vintage since this vineyard was acquired by the Domaine. It covers less than one fifth of a hectare, producing just five barrels in 2009, the wine being vinified and aged in one third new barrels. La Garenne's situation high on the hillside has allowed admirable acidity and minerality to be retained, giving the wine outstanding balance and potential (for drinking 2012-2020+)".

A classic combination in the great tradition of French haute cuisine but none the worse for that.

 

 

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