Match of the week

Fideuá and Bobal

Fideuá and Bobal

You might know Valencia best for paella but in fact it has another paella-like dish called fideuá pronounced fi-de-wah which is made with pasta rather than rice.

As opposed to the classic Valencian paella which contains chicken and rabbit it’s almost always based on seafood, generally prawns and squid with tomato and sweet (dulce) pimenton.

You might think that would make it a better pairing with a white wine than a red one but the locals drink red with it, not always a red from the region (Valencia or Utiel-Requena) as Rioja and Ribera del Duero are popular here. But the local grape variety Bobal which is fresh, fruity and cherry flavoured - not unlike a Valpolicella - is a particularly good match.

I had a home-cooked fideuá at a local winemaker called Bruno Murciano with a couple of their wines - of which I think the fresh, vibrant 2022 Cambio de Tercio worked best although their very elegant El Sueño which isn’t currently available in the UK is my overall favourite of their range*. You can buy the Cambio de Tercio from Ultracomida for £15.95

There’s a recipe for fideua here if you want to give it a try yourself. The secret according to this post is a really good fish stock.

*I made Bruno Murciano's L’Alegria my wine of the week a couple of years ago.

I lunched with Bruno and José Luis as their guest

Albarino with arroz negro (rice with squid ink)

Albarino with arroz negro (rice with squid ink)

If you’re an albarino fan I’m sure you know it pairs brilliantly with seafood but here’s a twist to take the experience to another level.

It was at the brilliant Barrafina in Adelaide Street in London last Monday where Mar de Frades hosted a fascinating tasting and lunch to show off their experiments with older vintages.

Up until that point I’d been less keen on their top wine Finca Valiñas, a richer style which is given skin contact and partly aged in wood (I like the purity of unoaked albarino) but I have to say it was a fantastic match with this rich dish of dark, deeply savoury squid-ink flavoured rice with clams, prawns and squid*.

On the basis of this I’d say keep your young, fresh albarino for uncooked shellfish, seafood salads and simple grilled fish and more complex styles for richer fish and rice dishes like this. (Paella too, of course.)

The Finca Valiñas doesn't seem to be currently available in the UK but enquire about it from importers Sommelier's Choice. They have the 2014 Mar de Frades albarino for £12 for 50cl or £16 for a full-size bottle. Amazon also stocks it for £16.53 + £4.95 delivery.

* Also called arròs negre

I attended the tasting and lunch at Barrafina as a guest of Mar de Frades.

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