Match of the week

Asparagus mousse, peas and oyster with Donkiesbaai Steen

Asparagus mousse, peas and oyster with Donkiesbaai Steen

I’ve been reminded during the last few days in the Cape Winelands of the great versatility of Chenin Blanc also known locally by its Afrikaans name Steen but this was the standout pairing.

It was a starter at the Rust-en-Vrede winery restaurant which was described as Asparagus Mousse, Oyster, Pea and Truffle Water, Biltong but I didn’t get much of the biltong, more the delicious fresh taste of the asparagus and peas. You can just about see from the rather blurry picture to the right that there was some shaved asparagus in there too - and the clean briney flavour of the oyster.

The wine is a comparatively new label only available on the South African market at present - a top level old vine Chenin from a coastal area called Piekenierskloof. It was the brainchild of Rust-en-Vrede’s owner Jean Engelbrecht who felt there should be more top level Chenins and sells for around 201 rand (£14.42 at the time of writing) - if you can get hold of a bottle

I wish it was available in the UK as it’s absolutely lovely - intense, crisp and citrussy - though not in an obvious way. More like a top level Sauvignon than a premium chenin like FMC. Delicious - and a top match!

Oyster rarebit and Guinness

Oyster rarebit and Guinness

This is one of those rare weeks where I’ve come across four brilliant pairings that could have made the ‘match of the week’ slot but as it’s St Patrick’s Day tomorrow and I haven’t done a beer for a while I’ll go for the topical one.

I came across the dish in Wright’s Oyster and Porter House at Borough Market in London - a great hangout for any oyster enthusiast. I wouldn’t have thought you could improve on plain oysters and Guinness but adding toasted cheese to the equation gave it an extra dimension. It would be simple enough to do at home too.

The rarebit had quite a kick so I would guess was made with a quality mature cheddar and English mustard. It was cut into three strips, each with an oyster on top (possibly poached, I would guess).

The sharpness of the cheese and the brininess of the oysters both took the edge off the bitterness of the Guinness, leaving it seductively dark, soft and velvety. Other stouts should work equally well too.

Image © draghicich - Fotolia.com

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