Match of the week
New season's olive oil and vino novo
Last week I went on a flying visit to Tuscany to take part in the olive oil harvest and had the rare treat of being able to sample oil that has just been pressed. As you can see from the picture, it’s an incredible colour - literally deep olive green and has the most fantastic grassy flavour.
The family who make the oil - the LoFranco family of Fattoria La Vialla - throw a weekly feast for the visiting pickers during which the oil is liberally poured on everything from toasted bread to pasta to grilled meat (rabbit with fennel in this instance).
To go with it they pour a wine called Vino Novo, the wine from the new harvest which is only drunk during this period. Unlike Beaujolais Nouveau it’s not subject to carbonic maceration but simply siphoned direct from the tank. It was made from Merlot and wasn’t much more than 12% I would guess - deliciously light and gulpable with a bright fruit character that balanced beautifully with the slight bitterness of the oil. I can’t think of another wine that would have suited it better.
Pastis and olives
Yesterday we arrived in Arles for the Recontres Arles, a massive annual photographic exhibition that takes over the entire town. Our youngest son Flyn is showing some of his work at a restaurant called Le Corazon so we’re here for the next 10 days or so.
To get into the mood we picked up a bottle of my favourite pastis Henri Bardouin on the ferry on the way over. (Or favourite until now. I note the wine shop opposite has 3 brands I haven’t tried which all look interesting.)
Pastis, for those of you who aren’t familiar with it is an anise-flavoured liqueur that is particularly popular in Provence. It’s one of those acquired tastes like olives and espresso coffee that it generally takes time to learn to love. It’s pretty strong (the Henri Bardouin is 45%) so you drink it well diluted - about 1 part pastis to 5-6 parts cool water. Ice is frowned upon by purists as it stops the pastis taking on its characteristically milky, cloudy colour when diluted.
I like the Henri Bardouin one because it apparently contains over 40 different herbs and spices which makes it more complex and less licoricey than cheaper commercial brands. Its slight bitterness also makes it a great match with olives or olive-based pastes like tapenade spread on crunchy little toasts or bruschettini.
Image © stockcreations - Fotolia.com
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