Grilled octopus and Baga

Octopus seems an unlikely ingredient to be on trend but you’ll find it on a lot of restaurant menus at the moment. It’s far from an easy creature to cook (like squid it’s classified as a cephalopod rather than a fish) and it’s a measure of the kitchen’s skill as to whether it turns out tough or not.

Bar Douro, an appealing little wine bar in Flatiron Square just down the road from Borough Market passed with flying colours - it was deeply savoury and beautifully tender, served with deep-fried and puréed sweet potato .

I had been drinking a white at the time it appeared but immediately thought I’d prefer a red once I tasted it. They suggested a 2015 Nossa Calcario Baga from the Bairrada region from a woman winemaker I very much like called Filipa Pato together with her husband William Wouters.

For a wine that was awarded an impressive 96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate it was listed at a very reasonable £12 a glass. (It retails for about £32.50 from importers Clark Foyster.

It showed the fine texture and delicacy Portuguese reds are capable of and suited the octopus very well. I also remember enjoying a baga with suckling pig a while back. It’s obviously a very good food wine.

I ate at the restaurant as a guest of Bar Douro.

Octopus with orange wine

Orange wines - white wines that are made in a similar way to a red, leaving the juice in contact with the skins - have become increasingly popular in the last couple of years, proving impressively versatile with food.

This skin contact ribolla from Slovenia called Movia Rebula we had at Peckham Bazaar, which describes itself as a ‘pan-Balkan grill’, is a case in point. It was particularly good with the grilled octopus which was served with white tarama, capers and red onion but also sailed through the rest of the menu taking the big flavours of feta, skordalia and a pizza-like pide in its stride. (Which is impressive for a 12% wine)

Coming from roughly the same part of the world as the food it was a natural partner for these eastern Mediterranean flavours but perhaps not a wine you might pick out on a list.

The extended skin contact give orange wines red wine-like tannins and grip and an appetising savouriness but they can have an almost floral freshness that makes them a great match for seafood too.