Match of the week

Roast beef sandwich and a Virgin Mary
I’ve got a bit obsessed with Virgin Marys (alcohol-free Bloody Marys) over the last few days.
My food writer friend Signe Johansen ordered one at a rather splendid lunch we had at Claridges and it went perfectly with a roast beef sandwich I’d chosen, one of the more affordable options on the eyewateringly expensive menu. (Still, the surroundings are wonderfully glamorous and, as you can see, the sandwich was more than generous.)
I then ordered another one yesterday at brunch at my local Bristol restaurant Wallfish where they call it a Bloody Shame and where it went brilliantly with a full English breakfast.
The robust seasoning in a Virgin Mary (generally Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and celery salt) more than makes up for the lack of alcohol and in fact it would go equally well with a steak sandwich or a burger. There was tarragon mayo and cornichons on the sandwich which added a piquancy of their own and chimed in nicely with the spicy tomato juice.

Cauliflower popcorn and a Seedlip and pineapple cocktail
Most pairings focus on alcoholic drinks but it’s equally intriguing to see how a similar synergy can be achieved with an alcohol-free one.
Last week I tried out the new vegan menu at the Ravinder Bhogal residency at The Perception bar at the W hotel and wasn’t really in the mood for wine so we chose the ‘soft’ option on the cocktail menu, a cocktail called Naked which was based on the non-alcoholic ‘spirit’ Seedlip Spice 94. It wasn’t actually vegan as it contained egg white but wasn’t billed as such either (there were vegan wine options). Other ingredients were lemon juice, pineapple juice, peach purée, ginger & lemongrass and a walnut garnish.
Being refreshingly fruity and not too sweet it actually paired well with almost all the dishes we tried but particularly with what has already become the most talked about dish on the menu - the cauliflower ‘popcorn’ with Thai basil tempura and a black vinegar and chilli dip. Appropriately enough as it's the perfect bar snack.
I also particularly liked it with the summer rolls, the beetroot and walnut kibbeh and the tempura inari. (Ravinder, who owns the restaurant Jikoni, is playing with a wide palette of Asian flavours not just Indian ingredients in this pop-up).
You can eat her vegan menu at The Perception which is just off Leicester Square until the end of June. I ate there as a guest of the W hotel.

Tortilla chips, salsa fresca and a virgin mojito
My first meal of the new year was a Mexican which might sound unusual in London but not much is open on New Year’s Day. We went to Wahaca which has a number of restaurants around the capital with some good non-alcoholic drinks options.
I ordered a virgin mojito which hit the spot perfectly with a bowl of tortilla chips and salsa though - tch, tch Wahaca - the salsa didn't taste quite as 'freshly made' as the menu claims - at least the previous day, I’m guessing, given that New Year’s Day is a public holiday. It also paired well with the fish taco I ordered though less well with my daughter’s burrito. A light drink like this needs bright flavours.
I’m assuming it was made roughly like this recipe in the Difford’s Guide. Anyway it was super-refreshing and proves yet again that soft drinks can be just as interesting a pairing for food as alcoholic ones*.
*There’s obviously an appetite for them. There's a whole Pinterest board devoted to them and very pretty they look too!
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