Match of the week

Cote Hill Blue and blackberry mead

Cote Hill Blue and blackberry mead

It’s not often that food and drink that goes together perfectly turns up at exactly the same time but serendipitously I was sent a selection of delicious meads last week just as my order of blue cheese from The Courtyard Dairy arrived.

The combination I thought went best was Cote Blue, a gorgeous gooey unpasteurised Brie-style blue from Market Rasen in Lincolnshire with an absolutely delicious blackberry mead from a Welsh producer called Afon Mêl.

Obviously it followed the established pattern of pairing berry flavoured drinks with a blue but was a more unusual match than the usual port and stilton combination.

I haven’t been particularly taken with the meads I’ve tasted in the past, finding them too sweet and heavy but this was fresh, delicate and really moreish. I was thinking it would go well with a blackberry and apple crumble then found they suggested actually adding it to one which I imagine would be REALLY good.

The blue (which was perfectly matured - as always from Courtyard) was also stunning with a 2016 Prophet’s Rock pinot from their Home vineyard in New Zealand's Central Otago region but then what isn’t?

For other blue cheese pairings see What kind of wine goes with blue cheese?

Gosnells mead and honey-smoked chicken

Gosnells mead and honey-smoked chicken

Every so often someone trumpets a mead revival but it never quite seems to happen, probably because there’s not enough of it about yet.

But at The Manor in Clapham you can drink it and I suggest you do.

It sailed right through a brilliant fixed price lunch but I’m highlighting two dishes - the honey-smoked chicken with lettuce and borlotti beans (makes sense given mead is brewed from honey but the honey in the dish didn’t overwhelm it) and a spectacular dish of cauliflower with grue de cacao, medjool dates and kefir. Which was basically different textures of cauliflower - raw, roast and whipped into an light-as-air mousse. (No, I didn’t know what grue de cacao was either. It’s cocoa nibs and there’s an excellent explanation on this US site.) I'm going for the chicken as it's easier to replicate at home.

The mead is brewed by Gosnells in Peckham (‘course it is!) and is much drier than mead traditionally was. Think of it like a dry, slightly honeyed perry. Hugely refreshing. You can find a list of other places that stock it on their website.

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