Match of the week

Tempura Jersey Royals and Jersey Royal vodka

Tempura Jersey Royals and Jersey Royal vodka

You probably wouldn’t think of pairing wine - or any other drink - with Jersey Royal potatoes but then you probably wouldn’t be having them as the central feature of a five course tasting menu as I was at Pêtchi in St Helier in Jersey last week.

Of course there were other ingredients that influenced the pairings which were mainly wine-based but the two I was particularly struck by were the first two courses that were devised by chef Joe Baker: a Jersey Royal tempura and a fermented potato bread (below).

We’d been served a Seaweed Martini consisting of Fluke Jersey Royal Vodka, sake and kombu to kick off which I still had in my glass. It went surprisingly well with both dishes, which despite the other ingredients on the plate - the tempura was accompanied by a salted egg yolk and chill and the bread with dulse (another kind of seaweed) butter - were really all about the potato.

Later I tried another vodka, the luxuriously creamy Jersey Royal Mash which is made from larger potatoes that would otherwise go to waste which I sipped as a shot and reckon would have worked really well too. They produce one for M & S which sells for £30 in store and online from Ocado though you can also buy it from Amazon.

Maybe it would even go with chips!

For other vodka pairings see the best food to pair with vodka.

Anchovy crisps and a pink Gibson

Anchovy crisps and a pink Gibson

After hibernating virtually the whole of January I had a run of eating out last week which threw up a number of good matches but this slot is all about discovering more unusual wine and other drink pairings.

This week’s match of the week definitely falls into that category.

It was one of the bar snacks at The Lowback at Hawksmoor Wood Wharf which I *know* is co-owned by my son Will but that’s not the reason why it’s here. OK, only part of the reason 😉

The drink was a pokey but beautifully balanced Pink Gibson which is made from Absolute Elyx, Audemus Umami Gin, Aperitivo Co. Dry Vermouth and a Pink Pickled Onion (the pink comes from the hibiscus in the pickle) So basically a dry(ish) martini

And the snacks were some anchovy, whipped goat butter and pickled onion t=-opped crispbreads and a bowl of home-made (well, restaurant-made) pickles which chimed in perfectly with the cocktail

So it was really all about the pickles. I normally think of drinking lager with pickles but turns out dry martinis, especially a Gibson, work really well too.

I ate at Hawksmoor Wood Wharf as a guest of the restaurant

Oysters and a Half Shell Gin martini

Oysters and a Half Shell Gin martini

Having always understood you shouldn’t drink spirits with oysters I was surprised to come across the recommendation from oyster specialist Wright Brothers of accompanying them with a gin martini made from their Half Shell gin.

The gin which has been distilled with Carlingford oyster shells, kelp seaweed and Amalfi lemon is unusual enough - not exactly oystery but certainly saline - but was even better served straight from the freezer with a dash of Aecorn Dry an alcohol-free aperitif which slightly reduced the 42% alcohol of the gin while adding an intriguing herbal, borderline woody note to the martini.

The main thing though is that it was utterly dry which is what you want if you’re eating oysters unadorned or with just a small squeeze of lemon. I only used it because I didn’t have any dry vermouth to hand and I’m not sure it would have worked any better. (Incidentally I tried the gin as a G & T with the oysters too and it didn’t work half as well. The tonic really tasted quite intrusively sweet.

I wouldn't say the gin went better with one type of oyster than another really, just any good oysters you can get your hands on!

Oh, and no alarming after-effects!

You can buy the gin - and oysters - from the Wright Brothers website for £36 a 50cl bottle (it comes in a rather handsome tube) and from their restaurants.

In the light of this I may have to revise my post on oyster pairing The Best Wine (and other) pairings with oysters but you'll hopefully find some other useful suggestions there.

I was sent the gin and the oysters by Wright Brothers

About FionaAbout FionaAbout Matching Food & WineAbout Matching Food & WineWork with meWork with me
Loading