Match of the week

Kedgeree and a crisp Portuguese white
Do you eat kedgeree - if at all - for brunch or supper? That's probably going to affect whether you have a glass of wine with it.
I must confess I hadn’t made it for a while but was sent some smoked haddock and kedgeree butter as part of a sample Rockfish fish box (the type we’re offering in our prize this month) and had forgotten how delicious it was.
I based it broadly on Delia’s recipe which is the one I used to make using the kedgeree butter rather the added curry powder to spice it up and adding a bit of fresh coriander at the end rather than parsley.
We had it for brunch so I just tried it with the wine we’d had open the night before which was a bottle of Quinta da Pedra Alta’s 2019 Branco. Although it’s made from local grape varieties (rabigato and gouveio since you’re asking) it’s unusually fresh and zippy for a Douro white and worked perfectly. Any fresh tasting crisp white wine like albarino (or Portugal’s alvarinho), picpoul or even a dry riesling would work equally well. And given we’re talking brunch, champagne or, more reasonably, cava too.
You can buy the Quinta da Pedra Alta online currently for £66.30 a case

Kedgeree and Western Australia Semillon
I realised the other day that there’s a marked French bias to this site. Partly because I spend a fair bit of time in France but also, I have to admit, because I do enjoy drinking French wine. So here, in an attempt to redress the balance and to celebrate Australia Day is an unusual but highly successful Aussie pairing.
Kedgeree, for those of you who are not familiar with it, is an Anglo-Indian dish that dates from the Raj. Originally based on lentils and rice it is generally made with smoked haddock or other smoked fish and hard boiled eggs. It’s very mildly spiced - not hot at all - and is a popular, brunch dish in the UK.
That, you might think, would make it a good partner for a sparkling wine which is what I would generally advise as a match but the other day we tried it with a 2006 Brookland Valley Semillon from Margaret River which had that characteristic gooseberry herbaceousness that characterises that region. It was a lovely wine: crisp, refreshing and almost spring-like, despite being fermented in oak, and a very good match for the smoked fish. You can find it - the wine not the fish - in Oddbins for £12.99.
Image © Martin Turzak - Fotolia.com
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