Match of the week
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Pomerol and gravy
This might sound a bit of a weird pairing - what about the meat the gravy goes with? The answer is there wasn’t any.
The gravy - and what gravy- was served with a small potato sourdough loaf at chef Stevie Parle’s new restaurant, Town, the (brilliant) idea being you dunk the warm bread in the gravy, a bit like a French dip.
The gravy, referred to as Town house gravy (I love the idea of a restaurant having a ‘house gravy’) was satisfyingly dark and meaty with more than a hint of bone marrow, the sort of sauce, I thought, would show off a good Bordeaux, maybe a Pomerol …
Fortunately there was one available by the glass on the wine list - a 2019 Clos René and you know what? It was absolutely perfect - one of those rare pairings where the whole is better than the sum of the parts.
You can find that vintage online at Four Walls Wine Co for £29.95 among other stockists but other vintages are quite widely available. Justerini & Brooks has the 2017 for example.
For other Pomerol pairings see Which foods pair best with merlot

Runaway American Brown Ale and chicken poutine
Last week I was in Manchester for lunch at the new Hawksmoor, a restaurant I can hardly review given it’s one of my son Will’s.
However I think I can fairly point out that the outrageously good chicken poutine barm in the bar (which you can also order in the restaurant) is the perfect match for local Runaway Brewery’s American brown ale.
Poutine, for those of you who are not familiar with it, is a Canadian fast food dish of chips with cheese curds and gravy. What the kitchen’s done here is replace the curds with pulled chicken - and crisp shards of chicken skin - add an egg and stuff the lot into a soft bread roll or barm as it’s known locally in Manchester. It comes with a jug of gravy on the side which is the element that makes the brown ale pairing work so well.

Sound filthy? It is but it’s soooo good!
Runaway is a new Manchester brewery and also makes a cracking smoked porter I’m told. There's a list of the other places you can buy or drink it on their website.
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