Match of the week

Bagna Cauda and Arneis
I could have chosen any one of the pairings at the ‘An A to Z di Vini Divini’ wine dinner at Bocca di Lupo last week as my match of the week but this is one of the most useful ones as bagna cauda, an anchovy, garlic and olive oil dip with raw vegetables isn’t the easiest dish to pair.
The dinner was a collaboration between one of my favourite food writers, Rachel Roddy and chef Jacob Kenedy - a six course menu with really interesting wines chosen by Bocca di Lupo’s sommelier Phill Morgan.
Bagna cauda is a speciality of Piedmont so it was appropriate to drink a white wine from the region with a 2022 Arneis Le Tre from Malabaila di Canale. You can buy it from the St Andrews Wine Company for £15.95 and $21.99 at Perrine Wine Shop in Atlanta.
Sometimes the dish can be quite punchy* but Rachel’s version contained milk butter and cream which really showed off the wine’s delicate aromatic character.
You can find the recipe in the charmingly illustrated booklet they’ve produced to go with the promotion which you can buy from their website for £6.99 with £1 of the cover price going to the children’s charity Magic Breakfast. You can try the pairings individually or as a tasting menu until the end of January.
*In which case you might want to drink a fruity young Dolcetto with it as Marc Millon recounts in this lovely post
For other anchovy pairings see The best wine pairings for Anchovies.
I attended the dinner as a guest of Bocca di Lupo.

West African pork and peanut stew with Heartland Dolcetto & Lagrein
Quite an adventurous pairing this week which you might have thought on paper wouldn’t come off. A hot, spicy pork and peanut stew and a glass of Ben Glaetzer’s bold, ripe 2010 Heartland Dolcetto & Lagrein from South Australia's Langhorne Creek.
Two things I think made it work so well - one being the peanut element which is quite wine-friendly (the stew also went with the remains of the younger Mount Pleasant Elizabeth semillon I highlighted last week which was still showing well) and the fact that at 5 years old the Dolcetto & Lagrein had mellowed out beautifully and brought a note of ripe sweetness to the party without too much intrusive oak. I bought it from my local deli, Chandos, by the way who had it as a bin end*. It’s a good time to pick up bargains like this.
The recipe is a cracking one from chef Richard Turner’s Hog and I'd urge you to make the amazing ‘Master pork broth’ on which it’s based. You can find another great recipe from the book - pot roast pork with fennel, olives and orange here.
* Kenny's Wine Store in northern Ireland also has the 2010 online for £13.49. Great Western Wine has the 2012 for £13.50. In Australia they're on to the 2013 vintage. For other stockists see wine-searcher.com

Beetroot soup and English Pinot Noir
The other day I enjoyed a surprisingly good pairing of a beetroot soup with an English blend of Pinot Noir and Rondo from Kent winery Chapel Down at the London restaurant Roast. I say surprising a) because soup is difficult to pair and b) because the two are so similar in colour that you’d think the wine wouldn’t be a sufficient contrast to the soup. In fact its fruitiness and crisp acidity (the Rondo making it taste more like a mid-weight Italian red) was just the right counterpoint to the earthy rich character of the beetroot.
It was also an interesting match because the soup (which was smooth rather than clear like a borscht) was garnished with goats’ cheese and mint, normally ingredients that would point you in the direction of a Sauvignon Blanc.
It underlines the importance of identifying the dominant ingredient in a dish. Beetroot is a powerful ingredient whichever way its served and generally calls for a red rather than a white. I’ve also enjoyed it with Dolcetto.
Latest post

Most popular
.jpg)
My latest book

News and views
.jpg)


