Match of the week

Curried lentils with Waipara riesling

Curried lentils with Waipara riesling

Riesling is often paired with Indian food though I don’t think it always works with hotter curries. But with this anglicized version of a dal from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s new book Eat Better Forever it was spot on.

I say anglicized because, cumin seeds apart, it was based on curry powder rather than individual spices and also had extra lentils stirred in at the end, hence the title double dahl. So it was quite mild, accentuated by two accompanying salads, a ‘raita’ salad with apple, cucumber and mint - quite similar to the Meera Sodha salad I made last week - and a lightly dressed carrot salad with a lemony dressing.

I had a bottle of New Zealand winery Pegasus Bay’s 2018 riesling from the Waipara Valley in North Canterbury. At 13% it was comparatively strong for riesling with a touch of sweetness that was easily able to handle the spice. I remember drinking a sylvaner with a mild vegetable curry that worked in a similar way. You can buy the 2017 vintage from Waitrose Cellar for £16.99 (and on promotion at £12.74 until tomorrow, March 9th 2021).

For other suggestions see What to Drink with Dal

The Pegasus Bay was a press sample and Eat Better Forever which is published by Bloomsbury at £26 (although you can buy it for £13.65 from their website currently), a review copy.

Lamb biryani and grand cru gewurztraminer

Lamb biryani and grand cru gewurztraminer

Sometimes it’s worth revisiting your prejudices. I’ve never been a huge fan of gewürztraminer with Indian food although it’s an established pairing. It always seems to me slightly jarring, especially with tomato-based curry sauces. But this week I changed my mind.

I took an open bottle to an Indian restaurant* on Friday night and it actually went incredibly well (as did a Brundlmeyer grüner veltliner brought by my mate Martin).

Two possible reasons struck me - the fact that the food was relatively dry - a biryani with dal and saag paneer on the side - rather than several disparate wet curries and that the gewurztraminer was a really good one, albeit incredibly well priced from Lidl. (The 2012 Grand Cru Seinklotz from J P Muller which comes into store in 10 days time on the 26th and which you should snap up if you’re a gewurztraminer fan.) Tasting a really good example of a wine in a style you don’t normally go for can win you round.

I think it comes down to the fact that gewurz, as it’s known for short, is a bit of a Marmite wine. If you love it, you’ll like it just as much or even more with curry; if you don’t spicy food won’t make it taste any more appealing. But give it another try.

* Actually the restaurant itself is a bit of a find. It's called Vittles Curry Nights and is a cafe during the day, up the Filton end of Gloucester Road in Bristol. Nothing fancy but the food rocks!

Photo © H L Photo at fotolia.com - not, obviously, of our meal but a typical Indian spread.

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