Match of the week

Braised cuttlefish and artichokes with orange wine
This week’s match of the week was a toss up between this pairing of orange wine and braised cuttlefish at Emilia in Ashburton and a delicious tuna and crab taco with a cracking margarita at Zapote in Shoreditch but I reckoned you know that tacos (fishy ones especially) are great with margaritas and it’s always a struggle to know what to drink with artichokes.
Six of the best drinks to pair with tacos
As I’ve said before it’s much easier to pair them when they’re braised or grilled than when they’re boiled, French-style with a vinaigrette or if they're partnered with other more wine-friendly ingredients - in this case cuttlefish and white beans.
I knew from past experience orange wine goes well with octopus so thought it would go with cuttlefish and it did, brilliantly, thanks partly to the wine being so delicious.
It was a deeply coloured 2021 skin contact Malvasia called Giandon Bianco from Il Farneto in Emilia Romagna with really lovely apricot and quince fruit. You can also buy it from the natural wine shop Highbury Library in London for £21. I think orange wines work particularly well when they’re made from aromatic grape varieties like malvasia and pinot gris
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Tagliatelle of raw cuttlefish and passerina
Having spent most of our week in Abruzzo inland we seized the opportunity to have a meal at La Barcaccia a fish restaurant on the seafront at Pescara before flying back and this clever dish of cuttlefish ‘tagliatelle’ was one of the crudi (raw dishes) on the menu.
It was served with little finely sliced sweet onion then simply dressed with olive oil and lemon juice and garnished with fresh green chillies which gave it quite a kick (The abruzzesi like their chillies though they’re usually dried)
We opted for an inexpensive white passerina which worked brilliantly with the dish and also with the very gorgeous pasta dish of scampi, clams and bottarga we had afterwards. Passerina is one of the local grape varieties, the others being pecorino and trebbiano though this particular bottle from Pasetti is not available in the UK.
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