Tarte Tatin and Pineau des Charentes

I had some great food and wine matches in Dublin last week but most were predictably good (albarino and seafood, Ribera del Duero and lamb …) so I’m going for this combination from the menu at a brilliant little restaurant called Mae.

The list is drawn from the wine shop below, The French Paradox, which as the name suggests, specialises in French wines. They work closely with the restaurant on the pairings and this was the unexpected finale to the meal.

The tarte tatin was in fact cooked with Calvados which would have been a logical match but the slightly lighter (17%) Merlet Pineau des Charentes from Chateau Chevessac added a contrasting almost vanilla-y sweetness and richness that worked really well. (Pineau des Charentes is a blend of grape juice and cognac which is aged in oak.)

The Good Wine Shop normally seems to have the Merlet though it’s currently out of stock. I reckon a Pommeau from Normandy would work pretty well too.

For other pairings with apples see The best pairings for apple desserts

Fennel and apple salad and Solaris

Finding a new salad that you love and will make many times over again is a win for any weekend but when you find the perfect wine pairing with it too it’s a real high point

The salad comes from fellow Guardian writer Meera Sodha’s Fresh India and is a fennel and apple chaat with caramelized almonds to give it its full name. It’s really light and springlike as the ingredients suggest and comes with crunchy little nuggets of caramelised nuts flavoured with crushed fennel seeds, ginger and honey. The dressing is a simple oil and lemon one seasoned with garam masala - which just gives it a faintly spicy kick. I swopped half of it with neighbours who gave me Meera’s winter pilau from East in return then we ate and chatted on Zoom.

The wine is Welsh, believe it or not - a Solaris from Montgomery vineyard in Powys and is deceptively rich given its modest 11.5% ABV. Solaris has become popular in the UK given that it ripens early. Montgomery's version is not cheap: Welsh - and English - wines rarely are but it really is delicious with some lovely fresh tropical fruit. You can buy it for £17.95 from Cheers of Swansea.

For other wine pairings for salad see Which Wine Pairs best with Salad

Oysters and dry German riesling

I don't normally think of pairing raw oysters with riesling - even dry ones seem too sweet but I came across a combination last week at the newly opened Magpie in London that worked brilliantly.

The reason was that the oysters were served with diced apple and chicharron (pork crackling), two ingredients that are massively riesling-friendly - the apple because it mimics the flavours, the pork as a perfect savoury contrast.

The riesling was a 2014 Schloss Marienlay from Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt in the Mosel - fresh, bright and appley itself (trocken I'm guessing) and available on tap at the very reasonable price of £5 a glass.

It also worked really well with a pretty dish of trout, grapes and quinoa

For other oyster pairings see

Best matches with oysters

Smoked trout and a Tricycle

My problem this week is that I have a terrific wine pairing but I can't tell you about it because it's the result of a tasting I was running for Decanter magazine. So you'll have to hang on till December for that. Sorry.

In the meantime here's my second best match which is not a wine at all but a Tricycle, a refreshing apple, cucumber and mint-based soft drink I had at the Riding House Café with my daughter this week. Like many places these days they specialise in small plates so it had to take an artichoke dip, salt cod fritters and red pepper aioli, cured trout, jalapeno pepper and crème fraîche (right) and sea bass ceviche with lime and chilli in its stride.

It actually coped very well, particularly with the trout, in much the same way, I think, as a herby Sauvignon Blanc would have done. (I always find it helps to think of a vinous equivalent of soft drinks.) I've ordered that kind of drink in Lebanese restaurants before and it goes well with mezze too.

It would also be a nice summery drink to take on a picnic for non-drinking friends. Assuming we still have some summer left, not obvious from today's overcast sky :(