Match of the week

Anchoïade and strong dry southern French rosé
Anchovies are supposed to be tricky with wine but I pretty well always find that rosé hits the spot.
Mind you, over the last few hot sunny days in the Languedoc (sorry to rub it in for those in the UK who've endured a week of grot) we've been drinking it with pretty well everything from charcuterie to pasta. But I was impressed by its ability to handle this particular anchovy paste which was very strong and fishy - almost like a patum peperium.
The wine came from our neighbour a couple of doors up the road, Domaine Belles Courbes, whose vineyards are in Saint Chinian. He makes two - one that's oak aged (elevé en fûts de chêne) which is 13.5% and a slightly lighter fruitier one that's just off-dry and which I think would work better with kormas, and other mild Indian and Chinese dishes.
They appear to be stocked in the UK by a company called Wines Unfurled but the most recent vintage they have is 2008 which is really too old for this style of wine. (The oaked version I had was 2009 and the unoaked 2010). If you're in the Languedoc you can buy them direct from the winery in St Geniès-de-Fontedit. Or buy something similar in style.

Anchoïade and manzanilla
I’m beginning to wonder if there’s anything manzanilla doesn’t pair with - or fino, come to that. Of course, there is but both sherries do seem to be brilliant at dealing with the tricky customers of the culinary world, especially pungent salty ones like anchovies and capers.
I had this particular combination at the recently opened Rockfish Grill in Bristol - anchoïade is a creamy anchovy pure from the south of France which is generally served with raw vegetables or crudités. The usual wine match would be a Provençal white or rosé but I really loved this combination with chilled tangy sherry.
It makes me think that manzanilla would be a feasible - though unconventional - partner for that Piedmontese speciality bagna cauda. It also pairs well with olive-based spreads such as green and black tapenade (especially the green version) and creamy, smoky purées such as brandade (salt cod) and baba ganoush which is made from grilled or roast aubergines.
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