Match of the week

Crab tartine and Sancerre

Crab tartine and Sancerre

Last week was a week for revisiting the classics. Oysters and Chablis, Fino and fried almonds (and excellent jamon croquetas at Paco Tapas) and this absolutely textbook match at Bar Boulud in Knightsbridge which recently reopened after last year’s devastating fire in its host hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

I suppose you would expect nothing less of a Frenchman working in America, let alone a perfectionist such as Daniel Boulud. The crab (which was Cornish) was piled generously on a slice of sourdough toast with just enough avocado to create a creamy base without overwhelming its delicate flavour and some fine slices of radish on top.

Sommelier Yuri Gualen picked a really lovely Sancerre Florès from Vincent Pinard (which you can buy for £19.95 in Field & Fawcett) to go with it which was utterly perfect - equally elegant and restrained - just supporting the dish, not overpowering it. Sometimes it’s good to know when to hold back.

For other wine pairings with crab click here

I ate at Bar Boulud as a guest of the restaurant.

Cucumber fritters and Sancerre

Cucumber fritters and Sancerre

I think I’ve found the perfect match for Sancerre - and the perfect Sancerre to drink with them!

It’s cucumber fritters, a summer speciality of my good friend Stephen Markwick of Culinaria in Bristol. They’re served in a light, salty batter with dill-flavoured cream and some lightly dressed salad leaves and flowers including peashoots and nasturtiums which Stephen gets from Arne Herbs. I’d give you the recipe but it’s part of the collection that is going into the next cookbook I’m collaborating on with Stephen which will be out this autumn. (The first being A Very Honest Cook)

The Sancerre was great too: a 2008 from Pierre Riffault of Domaine du Carroir-Perrin which was wonderfully pure and mineral with just a hint of gooseberry fruit, elegant and restrained. It came from a local Bristol wine merchant, Vine Trail and you can read the full description here on their site.

Other Sauvignon Blancs would do but the more overt styles I think would overwhelm the delicacy of this quintessentially summery dish.

 

Goats' cheese and Sauvignon Blanc

Goats' cheese and Sauvignon Blanc

Despite the freak flurries of snow and sub arctic temperatures last week spring has officially arrived and with it longer daylight hours and a switch to lighter eating. For me there’s no combination that reflects the season better than goats' cheese and Sauvignon Blanc, one of the great classic food and wine pairings.

Does it matter which goats' cheese and which Sauvignon and whether you introduce any other ingredients to the plate? Not a lot, if truth be told. You might argue that it’s impossible to beat a Sancerre paired with a Crottin de Chavignol from the same area but I’ve had equal pleasure from a young moussey goats' cheese with an unoaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (the match is certainly better without oak which diminishes the Sauvignon’s acidity and minerality)

If the cheese is grilled or part of a salad that will work too, especially if the salad includes soft herbs such as tarragon, coriander or dill. Likewise, asparagus, which has a similar flavour profile to Sauvignon Blanc will enhance the match. You can even add contrasting ingredients such as roasted grilled peppers and the pairing will work. Take full advantage of it!

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