Match of the week

Asparagus and Rondo (English red)
A wine-loving friend and I weren’t sure what to order the other night at Native in Southwark. The menu was suitably springlike but having had a glass of white beforehand (at the excellent Bar Douro) we fancied a red
Scrolling down the list we spotted a bottle of Three Choirs 2017 Ravens Hill, a blend of Rondo, Regent and other red grape varieties from Gloucestershire. It was light (11.5%), crunchy and delicious - quite similar in style to a Loire red.
We asked for it to be chilled and it sailed through the meal, particularly with the dishes that contained asparagus and alexander, a crunchy, herby, slightly bitter plant, also called horse parsley. The wine didn’t overwhelm the delicate crab they served with it either and also went well with my slightly sweet main course of pork with apple béarnaise and root vegetables
I haven’t taken Three Choirs who have been on the English wine scene for a good while, particularly seriously in the past but they do an attractive and reasonably priced own label English white for the Wine Society for £8.25. The Ravens Hill is £13.99 from the Oxford Wine Company.
For other asparagus pairings see Top Wine Pairings with Asparagus

Beetroot soup and English Pinot Noir
The other day I enjoyed a surprisingly good pairing of a beetroot soup with an English blend of Pinot Noir and Rondo from Kent winery Chapel Down at the London restaurant Roast. I say surprising a) because soup is difficult to pair and b) because the two are so similar in colour that you’d think the wine wouldn’t be a sufficient contrast to the soup. In fact its fruitiness and crisp acidity (the Rondo making it taste more like a mid-weight Italian red) was just the right counterpoint to the earthy rich character of the beetroot.
It was also an interesting match because the soup (which was smooth rather than clear like a borscht) was garnished with goats’ cheese and mint, normally ingredients that would point you in the direction of a Sauvignon Blanc.
It underlines the importance of identifying the dominant ingredient in a dish. Beetroot is a powerful ingredient whichever way its served and generally calls for a red rather than a white. I’ve also enjoyed it with Dolcetto.
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