Match of the week
Beetroot-cured salmon and Godello
Despite the razmatazz surrounding the launch of Dom Perignon 2003 and a serious amount of wine and truffle action to which I’ll devote more space shortly I’m picking a more modest match from last week - the delicious beetroot-cured salmon, capers and egg yolk and 2010 Godelia Godello I had at José Pizarro’s new London restaurant Pizarro.
This is the kind of dish you could easily pull off at home. Beetroot gives a nice note of earthiness and sweetness which counteracts the slight oiliness and smokiness of the salmon. The crisp citrussy Godello, the newly fashionable Spanish white, adds the equivalent of a squeeze of lemon. You’d think the egg would have an impact on the pairing but it simply adds an extra layer of richness.
The Godello would obviously go with other fish and shellfish dishes too such as crab - see the link below.
Ribs, bourbon and picklebacks
It’s not often these days that I hit on a totally new discovery but this combination at the newly opened Pitt Cue Co, a southern American-style ribshack is the business.
They do amazing beef ribs slathered with a sticky, smokey but not oversweet marinade and serve it with homemade pickles. Quite a challenging combination for any wine to cope with but spot on with a pickleback - a shot of bourbon served with a sweet and sour chaser of home-made pickle juice. It’s also great with the St Louis ribs - and, I almost forgot, the smoked hot wings. The wings are awesome.
Even better it’s only £4. (The ribs are a very reasonable £9.50)
The downside? Pitt Cue, which is in Newburgh Street which runs parallel to Carnaby Street, is a tiny 30 seater which doesn’t take bookings. Still, worth it to taste some of the best, if not the best barbecued food in London. If you can’t face the queue to sit down they do pulled pork buns to takeaway.
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