Match of the week

Côte de Boeuf and Ridge Monte Bello 1999

Côte de Boeuf and Ridge Monte Bello 1999

Last week was a particularly indulgent one for dining out so it was a tough call coming up with my match of the week but I think it has to be the Côte du Boeuf I had at Racine with a stellar bottle of Ridge’s 1999 Monte Bello

Cabernet and beef, is of course a classic match but this combination really took it to another level. The meat, which came from O'Shea's Butchers of Knightsbridge, was grass-fed Black Angus which had been slaughtered at 36 months and hung for 34 days. It wasn’t overcharred which allowed its flavour to shine through.

The wine, which had been decanted 3 hours ahead, was just perfection - exotically scented and slightly smoky - an absolute treat. Interestingly its depth and complexity was set off slightly better by the meat on its own than with the accompanying barnaise sauce, delicious though that was.

Other stellar combinations from the lunch were asparagus with soft boiled eggs which had been rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried (perfect with a glass of Deutz Champagne) and an unctuously creamy créme caramel with a glass of 1994 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Selection des Grains Nobles.(Pure decadence!)

You can see why I had a problem picking my favourite pairing ;-)

 

Steak tartare and Beaujolais

Steak tartare and Beaujolais

This was a wine pairing I hadn’t thought of putting together before but once experienced last week at Racine it seemed supremely logical.

Steak tartare can easily be overwhelmed by the sort of full-bodied red you’d choose for a chargrilled steak and in my view needs a lighter wine to fully appreciate its smooth texture and complex seasoning. Previously I’ve had a sneaky fondness for a glass of Champagne which also works brilliantly well with the usual accompaniment of chips but following my successful experience with a vibrantly fruity Coteaux du Languedoc earlier this year we’d ordered an inexpensive bottle of chilled young Morgon (2008) from Jean Descombes* in the hope that it would hit the spot. Which it did, the cool fruit picking up beautifully on the touch of spice in the mix.

Harris’s steak tartare, for the information of fellow fans, is generally regarded as one of the best in London. Interestingly he starts off with a seasoning purée then adds his chopped ingredients. I’m hoping to prise the recipe out of him so watch this space!

* apparently part of the Georges Duboeuf stable. You can find it in the UK from The Colchester Wine Company, the latest incarnation of Lay & Wheeler, here.

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