Match of the week

Chicken korma and viognier

Chicken korma and viognier

I spent last week on the road in Ireland with wine importer Febvre hosting food and wine matching events for some of their restaurant customers. We covered a lot of ground from Enniskillen to Cork taking in Belfast, Galway and Dublin on the way and enjoyed a lot of amazing food matches.

How to pick just one? Well that IS difficult but I’m going for a really unusual presentation of chicken korma at a brilliant Indian restaurant called Ananda on the outskirts of Dublin.

They serve their food in a very unconventional way - first of all as separate courses rather than putting all the dishes on the table at the same time and secondly, by plating the meat elegantly and serving the sauce separately (see below for their normal plating). So this was a chicken korma unlike those you would have tasted before with an elegant piece of marinated grilled chicken and a rich indulgently creamy sauce alongside.

On the basis that the dish contained saffron I’d opted for a viognier, the Triennes Viognier Sainte Fleur 2014 from Provence and it worked brilliantly with the sauce. (With the dish on its own, interestingly. which also had a smear of beetroot purée we found a Henry Fessy Brouilly was an equally good match.)

Triennes, incidentally, is a collaboration between two top Burgundian winemakers, Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac and Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée Conti. You can buy the viognier online in the UK from The Vinorium for what I think is the very reasonable price of £15. It’s also quite heavenly with Vacherin Mont d’Or!

Photo (not of the original dish at Ananda) © paul_brighton at fotolia.com

Lebanese mezze and Côtes de Provence rosé

Lebanese mezze and Côtes de Provence rosé

Since I was in Provence for three days last week you might have expected me to come up with an all-Provençal pairing as my match of the week but in fact it was a lunch of Lebanese mezze that provided the best partner for the local rosé we were tasting.

Of course it shouldn’t have come as a surprise. I’ve drunk Lebanese rosés at Lebanese meals very happily before but hadn’t drawn the obvious conclusion that Provençal rosé, which are made in a similar style but are generally of better quality, would be just as successful.

The domaine which brought it to our attention was Château Coussin from the Sainte Victoire sub-region of the appellation which makes four different rosés, all of which I liked though it was the 2008 Château Maupague which I found myself reaching for most often. It was very light and crisp with fine, delicate strawberry fruit but a surprising intensity.

It handled all the mezze which included baba ganoush (aubergine purée), hummus, taramasalata, tabbouleh, stuffed vine leaves (very good) and an amazing tomato and burghul salad together with some little cheese and spinach and spicy sausage-filled pastries. The wine picked up on the freshness and delicate spicing of the food and proved a perfect companion to the meal.

At the moment this wine is not on sale in the UK but the domaine will be supplying a similar rosé called Cabaret to Oddbins in a couple of weeks’ time, I’ve been told.

Les-Baux-de-Provence and civet de sanglier (wild boar stew)

Les-Baux-de-Provence and civet de sanglier (wild boar stew)

I went to a great little bistro the other day in St-Rémy-de-Provence called - appropriately enough - Bistro Découverte. It’s run by a very talented young sommelier I used to know in London called Claude Douard who worked for Marco Pierre White and Joel Rebuchon.

As you’d expect, the wine list is awesome but there are also plenty of good local wines to drink at modest prices, several of which are available by the glass. We particularly enjoyed a soft, plummy La Chapelle de Romanin Les-Baux-de-Provence 2003, the unoaked wine of Château Romanin which was a perfect match with the plat du jour, a robust wild boar stew served with a sauce grand veneur (classic French game sauce). Made from the estate's younger vines, the wine was a typically southern French blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvdre, Carignan, Cinsault and Counoise with some added Cabernet Sauvignon.

The bistro is apparently well patronised by local winemakers - the legendary Eloi Durrbach of Domaine de Trevallon was sitting on the next door table.

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