Match of the week

 Smoked eel and potato soup with dry Moscatel

Smoked eel and potato soup with dry Moscatel

I could have picked any number of pairings from the really inspiring wine dinner hosted by Bodegas Bentomiz at Gambas tapas bar in Bristol last week but this marginally inched it.

It was a dish called Gazpachuelo which comes from Malaga - the same region as the wine - and is a traditional fisherman’s soup made with mayonnaise. (You can see it being made here)

This version was served at room temperature with smoked eel potato and scallop roe and was unctuously creamy, and slightly smokey from the eel.

With it the restaurant paired a dry, almost sherry like 2019 moscatel called Ariyanas or Ariyanas Seco Sobre Lias Finos to give it its full name that handled all the flavours perfectly. The glass was topped by a tortita di camarones, a crisp wafer with tiny shrimps which again is one of the specialities of the region - and of the restaurant.

Another terrific pairing was a final course of avocado sorbet, yoghurt and olive oil with the bodega’s best known wine, Ariyanas Naturalmente Dulce, a sweet moscatel that tasted of gloriously ripe apricots with the almost savoury dessert.

You don’t often come across such carefully thought out and imaginative pairings which included dishes that are not normally on offer at the restaurant but it really pays dividends, presenting a satisfying challenge for the kitchen and a new experience for restaurant regulars as well as showing off the wines to best effect.

Gambas is at Unit 12 in Cargo 2, Wapping Wharf, Bristol. You can buy the wines from them direct if you live in Bristol or via Indigo Wines if you're in the UK wine trade. The Ariyanas Seco is £31.90 and the Naturalmente Dulce £5.90 a glass.

I attended the dinner as a guest of Gambas and Bodegas Bentomiz

Fresh clementines and Jorge Ordonez Malaga Seleccion Especial

Fresh clementines and Jorge Ordonez Malaga Seleccion Especial

No Christmas goes by without some wine pairing discovery and this year it was the delicious Jorge Ordonez Malaga Seleccion Especial no. 1 2007 with some simple fresh clementines we had at the end of a post-Christmas meal with friends.

Despite the contemporary packaging I’d expected the Malaga to be similar to those I’d tasted before: dark, treacley and oloroso sherry-like but in fact it was wonderfully light and fresh. The wines, which are made in conjunction with famous Austrian sweet wine producer Kracher, are unfortified and aged in stainless steel.

The Seleccion Especial is apparently made from grapes that are dried on the vine and has a more concentrated almost orangey flavour than the accompanying ‘Victoria’ cuvée which is very fresh and, grapey and which I would love to try with Asian-influenced desserts with tropical fruits and mangoes or with light airy fruit-topped gateaux.

Surprising though it may sound it’s unusual for a wine with orangey notes to go with oranges, or in this case clementines. The fruit often strips the character out of the wine but this was just delicious. I suspect it might even work with Christmas pudding if you wanted a light, refreshing contrast.

The wines are easy to source in the States, slightly less so here in the UK though according to wine-searcher.com it is stocked by Cambridge Wine Merchants at the very reasonable price for this quality of £14.99 a half bottle. Hangingditch in Manchester has it for £17.50 Roberson in London for £17.95, and Harrods for a rather outrageous £19.95 (how on earth do they justify that mark-up?)

 

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