Match of the week

Smoked eel, beetroot and Malbec

Smoked eel, beetroot and Malbec

This pretty dish was served the other night at what is still our favourite Bristol restaurant, Culinaria, even if we now live over the other side of town. It provided everything you want from a starter - light, appealing, appetite-stimulating.

It was constructed on a base of a warm blini, topped with beetroot, horseradish cream (made with fresh horseradish) eel, and a few lightly dressed leaves.

Normally I’d reach for a glass or a bottle of German Riesling with eel but we’d ordered the Malbec on the list - an Altos las Hormigas 2005 - to go with our main courses (boeuf bourguignon and roast loin of venison) and they have a limited by the glass selection. But the rich earthiness of the beetroot - always a good bridge to a red wine - and the spicy kick of the horseradish made the pairing a surprising success. Other fruity, and not overly oaky red wines would have worked equally well.

Thai beef salad and off-dry Riesling

Thai beef salad and off-dry Riesling

It’s easy to get stuck in the trap of thinking red wine is the only accompaniment for meat, especially red meat but in these days of multi-cultural eating that’s not necessarily true. And a good case in point is a Thai beef salad with its zingy, hot/sour flavours which influence the match much more than the beef does.

An off-dry Riesling is a much better bet than a red, adding a freshness and vibrancy to the pairing instead of a jarring note. Surprisingly even mature Rieslings can hold their own. We once paired a nine year old Von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Spätlese with a Thai beef salad at a Decanter tasting and it was the star of the show. New Zealand Rieslings, which tend to be slightly more floral than South Australian ones, also make a good pairing.

If you’re not a Riesling fan a good zesty New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc will hit the spot as will the ever-flexible weissbier or witbier.

Image © jnie - Fotolia.com

Which wines - or beers - do you like best with Thai food? Do let me know what you think.

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