Match of the week

Double IPA and pork belly

Double IPA and pork belly

Those of you who have been following the reports from my recent gastronomic junket in Chicago shouldn’t run away with the impression I spent all my time drinking Champagne and Château Lafite. One of my best meals was at chef Paul Kahan’s Blackbird where they have a craft beer list that should make most British restaurants hang their head in shame.

The two I tried I tried were an apple-flavoured white ale (witbier) called Ephémère from a Quebec brewery called Unibroue which was made in the Belgian style. The brewers suggest it with cheddar cheese, pork or onion soup but I found it went pretty well with a burrata salad with braised lobster mushrooms and haricot beans

The other was a wild and wacky double IPA (India Pale Ale) called Kill Ugly Radio released by Zappa fan Tony Magee of Lagunitas brewery in Petaluma, California to mark the 40th anniversary of Zappa’s album ‘Absolutely Free’. It’s a strong, rich-tasting brew that proved a great match for a comfort food dish of organic pork belly sandwich with cabbage slaw, summer vegetable salad and (to-die-for) garlic frites. I’d pair it with the Roast Pork Belly with black pudding in my new book Appetite for Ale too.

Filet 'sliders' and Pinot Noir

Filet 'sliders' and Pinot Noir

Those of you who have read my report yesterday on the 20th anniversary of Charlie Trotter’s will know I’ve spent the last few days in Chicago eating some quite amazing food. But occasionally you need a change from all that gourmet fare and I found it in that great Chicago institution Gibsons steakhouse where they serve something called a ‘Gold Coast Slider’.

Basically it’s like a cross between a brioche roll and a mini hamburger bun filled with different fillings. Gibsons does three - a Tilapia (fish) slider with tartar sauce, a tuna salad slider and, best of all a ‘filet slider’ - a small medallion of beef with Maitre ‘d butter (butter with parsley and lemon juice)

As it’s served at the beginning of the meal (and only at lunchtime) you want a lighter red with it than you would with a conventional steak and we just hit on the perfect bottle in the form of a 2005 Monterey County Pinot Noir from Chalone, a generously lush Pinot that would make any Pinot lover happy. It bears out my recent discovery (see the October issue of Decanter) that Pinot Noir is a particularly good pairing with fillet steak.

It would also make a great party canapé if you could just find the right rolls.

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