Match of the week

Camembert-style cheese and amphora-aged Bacchus

Camembert-style cheese and amphora-aged Bacchus

I’ve long felt that white wine is as good, if not a better match for cheese than red but it takes chutzpah to serve it at the end of a wine dinner as Mark Hix and Rob Corbett of Castlewood Vineyard did at an event I took part in last week at The Fox Inn at Corscombe

The cheeses, which came from Hollis Mead organic dairy included Benville, a triple-cream brie-style cheese, Corscombe which is like a camembert and a washed rind camembert-style cheese called Marvel.

None was particularly pungent so caused no problems for this really interesting white, borderline orange wine from Castlewood called Artefact which is aged in amphorae. It’s made from the English grape variety Bacchus but tastes smoother and creamier than Bacchus typically does with more of a pear, quince and sage character than a typically elderflower one.

The bottle and label too are unusual, depicting the events of the 2020 vintage in which it was made (you can find the story of how it came about on Castlewood’s website) Sadly it’s sold out but you might be able to find the odd bottle at the Fox or at The Pig hotels as their sommelier at The Pig in the South Downs, Luke Harbor, was involved in the project. (You could create a similar match though with other skin contact wines and camembert-style cheeses)

You can buy the cheeses online from a site called Harvest Bundle.

For other matches for Camembert-style cheese see What to Pair with Camembert

Wigmore cheese and 13 year old Pouilly Fumé

Wigmore cheese and 13 year old Pouilly Fumé

It’s still not widely recognised that white wines have the capacity to age, particularly wines that are noted for their freshness and bright acidity so it was fascinating to try a range of older wines from the Centre-Loire yesterday with a range of different cheeses.

The combination which stood out for me was a 2003 Pouilly Fumé Prestige from Domaine du Bouchot* which had developed a lush, tropical, passionfruit character you’d have more readily associated with a New Zealand sauvignon blanc - astonishing for a wine of this age (13 years old).

The cheese I thought it worked best with it was not a goats cheese a well matured Wigmore, a Camembert-style sheeps cheese. It was served with a drizzle of honey which picked up on the ripeness of the wine. (2003 if you remember was a very warm vintage)

Goats cheese would have been the more usual pairing with wines from this region so it was interesting to discover that a sheep cheese worked well too. Conversely one of the specialist cheese sites cheese.com says that Wigmore goes well with Cabernet Merlot. I’m not sure that would be my first port of call (if I wanted a red I’d probably go for a pinot noir) but would be interesting to try it out.

* You can buy a 2015 Domaine du Bouchot Pouilly Fumé from Ocado for £13.49 instead of £17.99 until midnight tomorrow GMT. Not the same cuvée but might be worth a whirl.

I was hosting the event at Bell's Diner in Bristol for Les Vins du Centre Loire.

Cider and Camembert

Cider and Camembert

I know we always think in terms of wine and cheese but sometimes other drinks can be just as good, if not better. Like this week’s pairing of medium-dry cidre traditionnel and Camembert I came across at a simple roadside restaurant just north of Domfront in Normandy.

You could tell it was worth stopping by the number of cars that were lined up outside and the fact that the local postman and dustmen had come in for their lunch.

It was nothing remarkable - just honest, home-cooked food - a plate of salade de museau and céléri rémoulade, hachis parmentier and salad and a generous selection of cheese and fresh fruit with cider thrown in - all for the amazingly cheap price of 11 euros (just over $13 or £8.50)

Camembert is the local cheese in that part of the world and cider the local drink* so it was an obvious ‘terroir’ based match but none the worse for that. It was also excellent with the museau (a kind of sausage made out of pig's snout or muzzle. Nicer than it sounds.)

It’s easy to forget if you live outside an area that produces cider what a good - and incredibly inexpensive - match it is for all kinds of food. Much better to drink good cider than bad wine!

*This one came from Chais Briouzains in Briouze

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