Match of the week

Lambrusco Grasparossa and pork

Lambrusco Grasparossa and pork

One of my favourite local restaurants Flinty Red in Bristol had put a Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro on by the glass when I went for lunch last week and it reminded me how incredibly delicious and versatile it is. So much so that we went on to order a full bottle.

We had it with panisse - some incredibly moreish chickpea fritters - with rabbit and gnocchi and with onglet but the match I thought worked best with the half bottle I took home (yes, I was that strong-minded) was some excellent homemade brawn from Castellanos Deli.

In fact it would be great with all kinds of porky dishes from pâté to salami - especially that delicious fennel kind. Or with rich eggy pasta which is apparently how they consume it in Emilia Romagna. Apparently it was a semi-secco but the overall impression was refreshingly dry with a lovely bitter wild cherry flavour. You could even drink it with a pizza.

The producer was Tenuta Pederzana from Castelvetro near Modena and it costs £11.99 from Flinty Red's sister shop Corks of Cotham. Serve it well chilled, as they did, in champagne flutes.

Catalan sausage and beans with southern French Syrah/Grenache

Catalan sausage and beans with southern French Syrah/Grenache

Last week’s highlight without a doubt was the meal I had with my Guardian colleagues at Brawn, Ed Wilson’s new restaurant in Columbia Road. As you may know it’s the new City outpost of the hugely popular wine bar Terroirs with a similar natural wine list which you can read about on my natural wine blog here.

Ed suggested wines to go with different stages of the meal which was served tapas-style - we must have tried practically every dish on the menu.

I loved the exuberant La Guillaume Gamay with the charcuterie and the Domaine Matassa Cuvée Alexandria, an extraordinary dry Muscat of Alexandria, with the zander boudin in shellfish sauce but the combination that just pipped the others to the post was Jean-Franois Nicq’s 2007 Domaine Les Foulards Les Glaneurs from the Roussillon, a generous spicy blend of Grenache and Syrah with the mongetes, a ribsticking Catalan dish of sausage and beans.

Although the wine was full-bodied - and funky - enough to need carafing it was still fresh enough to offset the richness of the beans. And just perfect for this freezing cold weather.

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