Match of the week

 Milk-fed lamb with Bolgheri Coronato 2011

Milk-fed lamb with Bolgheri Coronato 2011

Last week was a bumper week for wine pairing but setting aside the matches with older vintages of Pazo Senorans albarino at El Celler de Can Roca which were so mind-blowing they deserve a longer post, this is the one that stood out.

Lamb and red wine is admittedly a bit of a no-brainer but when it’s executed as well as this dish at Marianne in Notting Hill and paired as cleverly as it was by wine writer and consultant Douglas Blyde it’s worth calling out.

The lamb which was from the Rhug estate in Wales was served both very rare (the loin) with asparagus and morels and as a shepherds pie on the side (the shoulder) but I think it was the sweet carrot purée that made the match with the lusciously rich wine such a success. Although when you have a wine as sexy as this you have to chose something really inappropriate not to enjoy it.

The wine, a 2011 Bolgheri Coronato, was a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc - what used to be known as a super-Tuscan though Bolgheri has for several years been recognised as a separate denomination. Apparently Ludovico Antinori has stopped making it which seems a crying shame though I spotted there are a few bottles of the 2010 left on the Lay & Wheeler site at the time of writing (quoted in bond, note, but still only £14.50 which seems a bit of a steal.)

Maybe that was the problem. Too good a wine for the price.

Salt cod with ciambotta di peperoni and 2004 Argentiera, Bolgheri Superiore

Salt cod with ciambotta di peperoni and 2004 Argentiera, Bolgheri Superiore

Another interesting insight on pairing red wine and fish in Tuscany this week. We were served lightly salted cod with a rich tomato and pepper stew called ciambotta at Tenuta Argentiera which proved a perfect match for the mature 2004 vintage.

Like other wines in Bolgheri, the wine is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc but quite different in character from similar blends in the Bordeaux region which I’m not sure I’d pair with a tomato sauce at all. Much warmer, richer and sweetly mellow.

The dish was part of a buffet during which five different Argentiera wines were served with a wide range of dishes from crudo di pesce (raw seafood salad) to grilled ribeye to cheese.

As I’ve remarked before, Tuscans consider it perfectly normal to drink red wine right through the meal even though many producers now make some attractive whites and rosés.

We had a similar pairing in a trattoria called Cibreo in Florence - a dark, dense dish of squid cooked in red wine with a 2006 Stielle supertuscan (a younger vintage than is currently available on the UK market)

After a couple of days in Tuscany drinking rich full-bodied reds with fish seems quite normal.

*Here are the details of the current 2008 Argentiera

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