Match of the week

Ceviche and Susana Balbo Torrontes

Ceviche and Susana Balbo Torrontes

I’m currently away in Priorato in Spain (of which more later this week) but this was a great combination I came across last week at the Gaucho Grill in Swallow Street, London.

They’ve always served ceviches (raw fish marinated in citrus juice) but the selection has recently been refined by their executive chef Fernando Trocca who I met earlier this year in Argentina.

There were three kinds: a salmon tiradito (a layered version of ceviche) with citrus oil, lobster with white gazpacho and grapes and raw scallops with coconut dressing - all quite spicy. (You can order any three as a single course.)

The Susana Balbo Torrontes comes from the cool Salta region to the north of the country and is considered one of Argentina’s best. It has a perfumed floral character, not unlike a Gewürztraminer and took all the exotic and spicy flavours in its stride. I like the fact that being one of the grape varieties Argentina has made its own it’s the obvious local pairing too.

(Obviously it goes without saying we had steak and Malbec too but I probably don't need to point out again what a good combination that is!)

Smoked eel, beetroot and Malbec

Smoked eel, beetroot and Malbec

This pretty dish was served the other night at what is still our favourite Bristol restaurant, Culinaria, even if we now live over the other side of town. It provided everything you want from a starter - light, appealing, appetite-stimulating.

It was constructed on a base of a warm blini, topped with beetroot, horseradish cream (made with fresh horseradish) eel, and a few lightly dressed leaves.

Normally I’d reach for a glass or a bottle of German Riesling with eel but we’d ordered the Malbec on the list - an Altos las Hormigas 2005 - to go with our main courses (boeuf bourguignon and roast loin of venison) and they have a limited by the glass selection. But the rich earthiness of the beetroot - always a good bridge to a red wine - and the spicy kick of the horseradish made the pairing a surprising success. Other fruity, and not overly oaky red wines would have worked equally well.

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