Match of the week

Pork and beans with Pierre Gonon St-Joseph
Beans are one of the great underrated aids to matching full-bodied wines as I was reminded at the weekend when we combined a dish of pork and lima beans with a fine St-Joseph.
The beans and pork had been cooked for 6 hours together so were full of flavour and fall-apart tender, providing a wonderful backdrop to the powerful and complex wine. It was a 2006 from Pierre Gonon, at Mauves in the Ardèche. The estate is cultivated by his two sons Jean and Pierre, using only natural treatments and natural yeasts in the winery and treading the grapes by foot. There’s a good description of them here by their American importers Jolivin and here from Vine Trail who sells the wines in the UK.
The 2006 is currently available from Vine Trail for £19.95 and - rather more expensively - from Berry Brothers & Rudd who are charging £28.95 for the ’07 and ’08 vintage. If you think that’s a lot the vineyards are apparently precipitous and have to be worked entirely by hand. A cheaper Syrah would of course pair well with this type of dish too.
Gonon apparently also make a fine white St-Joseph which I haven’t yet had the opportunity to try.
Image © teleginatania - Fotolia.com

Charcuterie and young Syrah
Last week I had lunch at my new favourite London hangout, the wine bar Terroirs which is run by a partnership including the quirky and original Caves de Pyrène. It's a place that you'll absolutely love if you're a Francophile: it feels just like a Parisien wine bar - without the surly service. The food is also cracking but as we'd resolved to kick off the new year by splitting a Vacherin Mont d'Or, as you can read on my cheese blog The Cheeselover, we didn't get a chance this time to sample chef Ed Wilson's robust bistro food.
Our meal kicked off with some really fabulous charcuterie - some of the best I've had in London, which we washed down with a bottle of Vin de Pays de L'Ardèche 2007, a vibrant young Syrah from Hervé Souhaut of Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet that was exactly right with the silky, sweet fat of the Lardo di Colonnato and some fine prosciutto and salami from Cinta Senesi.
Like many of the other producers that Caves de Pyrène handles, Souhaut is a natural winemaker who uses only organic and biodynamic winemaking techniques - his wines are widely available in the US and elsewhere if you check out his site
Surprisingly, as I have a strong preference for crisp dry whites with Vacherin, it also went with the cheese, mainly I think because of its own crisp acidity and lack of intrusive tannins.
It was one of Douglas Wregg's ('Caves' web maestro and restaurant advisor) favourite wines of 2008.
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