Match of the week

Italian cheese and a Provence red from Microcosmos
I don’t often pair red wine with cheese, let alone make it my match of the week but the Italian cheeseboard I had the other day at Bocca di Lupo in Soho proved a great pairing for a highly unusual Provencal red
Well, actually, the grapes (old vine Carignan and Grenache) are grown in Provence but the wine is made in Marseille at Fabienne Vollmy’s quirky urban winery Microcosmos Chai Urbain.
I was actually attracted to the tasting and lunch because she also makes Vermentino about which I have a bit of a thing at the moment but this deliciously wild, ripe, unfined, unoaked red handled both the cheeses - a pecorino and a deeply savoury red wine-washed cheese (a good style of cheese for red wine). I think the candied orange peel also helped.

The wine, which is called Cargo*, also paired well - more predictably - with lamb chops
All Fabienne’s wines are made in tiny quantities - she’s a true garagiste - but the Cargo is available in the UK for £237 a case from The Burgundy Portfolio.
* Named because the winery is only a few hundred metres from the port of Marseille.

Moscato d’Asti and rose macarons
There were two strong candidates for match of the week this week but as my last three pairings have involved a crisp white wine (which reveals something about my current preferences) I didn’t think I could feature yet another one*
The other was one of the pairings I showed at a ‘Fabulous Fizz and food’ event TV presenter and cookery writer Thane Prince and I hosted at a tasting for The Women’s Chapter at city bank Arbuthnot Latham last week and for me it was the match of the night.
We had a hunch macarons would work with moscato d’asti but weren’t sure which flavour would go best. So I had the arduous task of nibbling my way through a box and rose came out top. (Followed by vanilla in case you're interested. Avoid coffee.)
We suggested it would be a great way to finish off a midweek supper if you didn’t have time to make a pudding but frankly it’s so good I’d keep it to yourself. The macarons were by Ladurée, the Moscato, a Vietta Cascinetta, from Bibendum (£14.95 from allaboutwine.com or £18.95 from Roberson. See wine-searcher.com for other stockists
*I’ve made it my wine of the week instead!

Vermentino and seafood
Normally this weekly post features a specific dish and wine but vermentino goes with so many fish dishes I think it’s worth flagging up its sheer versatility.
Over the weekend’s visit to the Porto Cervo wine festival we drank it with everything from oysters and raw scampi to grilled seabream to spaghetti alle vongole and it took every one of them in its stride.
If you want to refine the experience you could drink younger, crisper less expensive vermentinos with raw shellfish and cold, fish-based antipasti and more expensive, richly textured ones such as Capichera’s VT or Argiolas Is Argiolas with dishes like this baked seabream we had at Il Vecchio Mulino or lobster rice.
See also this post on other matches for spaghetti alle vongole
I was invited to the Porto Cervo wine festival by Starwood Hotels and ate at Il Vecchio Mulino as a guest of Capichera.

Morbier cheese and Savagnin
It’s been a very cheesy few days this past week - and I mean that in the sense of being cheese-focussed rather than corny.
Some of the best pairings were at a cheese and cider event I co-hosted in Bristol but as I’m writing about that separately I’m going for an unexpectedly brilliant cheese and wine combination at the Jura wine tasting
You might be surprised to hear it involved not the region’s most famous style of wine, vin jaune, but an on the face of it humbler Savagnin Côtes du Jura called Cuvée Edouard from Domaine Badoz which has been making wine in the region since 1659.
At almost 4 years old (it came from the 2011 vintage) it combined a rapier-like acidity with a delicious creaminess that seemed to perfectly echo the well-matured Morbier, a semi-soft cheese from the same region with a distinctive streak of ash running through the centre. The combination of the two was simply sensational bringing out almondy and floral notes in the wine that hadn’t been immediately apparent. One of those rare 'Oh my God!' pairings!
I can’t frustratingly find this particular cuvée in the UK though The Sampler stocks other wines in the Badoz range but you can buy it online from the website for 25€
The other recommended pairings are with pan-fried scallops, truffled celeriac, langoustine ravioli with vin jaune butter, fennel, green apple and salted caramel, whiting with leeks and cockles with a citrus vinaigrette. So now you know!

Little Beauty Marlborough riesling and Indian or Pakistani food
I’ve always thought of riesling as a better match for the fresh flavours of south-east Asian-inspired food than curry but a visit to the Lahore Kebab House proved otherwise this week.
It was an evening off for those who were juding the Decanter World Wine Awards and a first visit for me to this venerable East London institution which features spicy chops as its main draw.
It was a BYO evening which given the clientele that night was more than usually interesting but I was really pleased to find that the crisp, limey 2010 Little Beauty Marlborough riesling I’d taken along was absolutely spot on with the range of sometimes quite fiery dishes that turned up at the table - including the chops, kebabs, chicken tikka, samosas, onion bhajis and a selection of curries. If you wanted a truly refreshing wine to drink through an Indian - or in this case Pakistani - meal it would do the job perfectly.
I was sent the wine by an online company called 31dover.com which sells it online for £15.45. Not cheap but totally worth it. (It apparently won an International Trophy at the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2013 for Best in Show Riesling under £15.)
The team at 31Dover adds that it’s “sensational matched with honey glazed seared scallops with a hint of chilli, or sashimi with soya and pickled ginger.” I believe them.
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