Chicken liver crostini and Rosso di Montalcino

One of the most striking things about my trip to Tuscany last week was the reminder of how good young red wines are with Tuscan food - right the way through the meal, not just with the main course.

It was certainly true of the first lunch we had when we arrived which was co-hosted by the Bolgheri winery Poggio al Tesoro and San Polo in Montalcino, both owned by the Allegrini family.

I expected Poggio al Tesoro’s fragrant Solosole Vermentino to match the crostini that were handed round at the beginning of the meal - and it did - but not quite as well as the elegant 2014 San Polo Rosso di Montalcino which sailed effortlessly through the tomato, mushroom and (most challenging of all) chicken liver toppings. It also paired really well with a creamy dish of fettucine, zucchini, pancetta and robiola cheese - as did the 2008 vintage of the Solosole which I was also tempted to make my match of the week.

This would apply equally well to youthful chiantis or any other young sangioveses. It’s the acidity that makes them work so well - and the fact that, like white wines, they’re served at cellar temperature.

The San Polo Rosso di Montalcino costs £16.99 from slurp.co.uk and £18.95 at Eton Vintners.

I travelled to Tuscany with Liberty Wines

Chai tea junket and Moscato d’Asti

I don’t normally go for the wine pairings with tasting menus as it’s one of the most expensive ways of ordering wine but thought it was worth a whirl at a recent pop-up by chef Stephen Harris at the much-lauded Noble Rot wine bar.

It paid off from the point of view that I discovered this excellent pairing I wouldn’t have otherwise thought of. In fact I wouldn’t have thought of the dessert at all having conceived a great loathing for junket as a child.

In fact it was more like a particularly wobbly pannacotta, delicately flavoured with chai (spiced Indian tea) and served with orange and passionfruit but not too powerful to overwhelm the utterly delicious Ca d’Gal Moscato d’Asti with which it was partnered. (And which the bar is currently selling for a very reasonable £5 a glass.)

Harris, as some of you will know, is chef at The Sportsman at Seasalter in Kent, a restaurant I still have to get to so it was good to have the opportunity to try his cooking closer to home. There’s some family connection with one of Noble Rot’s founders Dan Keeling which has resulted in Harris helping them shape the menu. The indulgent halibut braised in Bâtard-Montrachet has already become a bit of a signature dish.

And if it's still on the by the glass list don’t miss the opportunity to order a glass of P J Kuhn’s stellar 2013 Jacobus riesling from the Rheingau which they’re selling for just £4 a 75ml ‘taster’. I’m not sure you even need any food with that ...

Cured and smoked pig jowl with Partizan IPA

I’ve highlighted the affinity of pork and IPA before but it’s good to be reminded just what a brilliant pairing it is.

Despite the excellent wine list the menu at the new Pitt Cue Co in the city actually cries out for a beer so we started with a Dr Rudi Lager from the Cloudwater Brew Co in Manchester (great with the grilled ‘kraut and smoked eel cream) and moved on to a Partizan IPA with the cured and smoked pig jowl and sides including an unctious bowl of mushroom and bone marrow mash and salt-baked celeriac and Isle of Mull. The sweetness (and strength) of the 7% beer was perfect with the slightly salty smoky pork. They’ll also be brewing their own beer shortly.

If you liked Pitt Cue in its previous incarnation you’ll love this new bigger version. Oh, and don’t miss the chicken and cep sausage.

Disclosure: I ate at Pitt Cue as a guest of the restaurant.

Turkish coffee cake and espresso

I was casting around for a dessert to make for friends on Saturday when I remembered this fantastic coffee cake from chef Margot Henderson’s book You’re all Invited. I suppose it’s more of a mid-morning or tea-time treat but I sometimes prefer cake to a full-blown pudding at the end of a rich meal.

It’s not as intensely coffee-flavoured as it sounds from the name. There’s a shedload of soft brown sugar - and sour cream - in the recipe which makes it taste quite fudgy (did I say it was light? Er, hem…) but you get that nice dark rich coffee taste without it being at all bitter.

I paired it on the night with a Noval 10 year old tawny port but it would also have been delicious with an Aussie port drinkalike like the D’Arenberg Nostalgia Rare Tawny or with a sweet oloroso sherry, madeira or marsala. But I enjoyed it most the following morning when I scoffed a piece for breakfast with a cup of espresso (which I always dilute with a bit of hot water). A black Americano would also hit the spot.

I do urge you to get the book which full of equally lovely recipes and quite delightful. You can read about Margot who happends to be married to Fergus Henderson of St John here or visit her restaurant Rochelle's Canteen which I'm ashamed to say I've so far not managed to get to.