Pork and pistachio terrine and old vine Brouilly

This isn’t the first time I’ve remarked how well Beaujolais pairs with a terrine but sometimes it’s worth being reminded what really, really works. And both were particularly good in this case - as indeed you’d expect at one of London’s best wine bars, Noble Rot.

The wine was a 2015 Domaine de la Grand’Cour Brouilly Cuvée Vieilles Vignes from Jean Louis Dutraive that reminded us just how great gamay (the grape from which Beaujolais is produced) can be. Beautiful, pure - but not in the least bubblegummy - fruit, quaffable but elegant and well structured despite quite a hefty level (for Beaujolais) of alcohol (14.5%)

And the terrine was the sort of rustic recipe you used to routinely find in French bistros but now all too seldom do. The only aspect of the presentation I’d quibble with was that it came with a generous dollop of onion marmalade which would have taken the edge off any accompanying wine and did no favours to the Brouilly. But 'chapeau' for the properly good sourdough toast.

For other suggestions see

10 good wine pairings with paté

Choucroute and Alsace riesling

I do love a tried and tested terroir-based wine match and there’s nothing better to pair with a dish of choucroute (almost Alsace’s national dish*) than a glass of the local riesling

I didn’t come across it in Alsace though but at a wine evening last week at my favourite Bristol wine bar Bar Buvette. The guest winemaker was Marie Boesch of Leon Boesch, a family-owned producer I visited a couple of years ago and whose wines are imported by Vine Trail which is also Bristol-based.

Although they’re biodynamic they’re not at all funky, just incredibly pure, live and expressive. The 2016 Les Grandes LIgnes riesling which I’ve subsequently bought was my favourite but the sylvaner worked very well too.

The choucroute was also unusually good. It can be a bit of an acquired taste - quite sour and sharp from the fermented cabbage but this was a big hearty wholesome plate of food with a good dollop of mustard.

Bar Buvette also does a cracking tartiflette

* Yes, I do realise Alsace is not a country but it's a very different part of France that almost feels like an independent nation!

Hake with cream and anchovy sauce and cava

It’s a pretty safe bet that if you have a wine-based sauce that an accompanying glass of the same type of wine will pair well with it so I was confident of ordering a glass of cava to go with a hake dish cooked with a cream, cava and anchovy sauce last week.

The restaurant was Rambla, a small Catalan restaurant in Dean Street in Soho which has been attracting a lot of favourable comment lately. Weirdly the dish was billed as ‘velveted’ hake which I suppose is an accurate description of the rich opulent texture of the sauce. It didn’t look much as you can see but the flavour was amazing - if you like anchovies which I most certainly do. The accompanying morel mushrooms were an extra bonus.

The cava which was made by Mirame wasn’t an exceptional one - no reason to expect more at £6.50 a glass - but it would interesting to try the dish with one of the new high quality caves de paraje - a new classification for top quality wines from the region. They do have Gramona by the bottle if you're in the mood for something a little flashier.

It would be well worth trying something similar at home to show off a good cava - or a bottle of champagne for that matter.

Flying fish cutters and Banks beer

A week without wine might sound like hell for wine lovers but to be honest in Barbados why would you drink anything else? Wine is expensive and there’s not much choice whereas beer is cheap and ubiquitous.

Even though we tried some craft beers we kept coming back to the island’s national beer Banks, a full-flavoured lager of 4.7% which invariably hit the spot. (You can read more about on the Beers of Europe website and buy it from them too if you’ve been to Barbados and are getting withdrawal symptoms)

It goes brilliantly with the flying fish ‘cutters’ - a fried fish sandwich or bun that you find on practically every menu and with the equally popular Bajan fishcakes which are actually more like fish balls and should always be freshly fried.

Of course you *could* also quaff a rum punch but I find most a tad too sweet though my mate Fiona Sims* (pictured above) makes an excellent one deviating slightly from the classic formula (one of sour, 1 1/2 (rather than two) of sweet (sugar syrup in her case), 3 of strong (we used Mount Gay rum) and 4 of weak (water rather than fruit juice). Mix, pour over ice-filled tumblers, then top with a good drizzle of Angostura bitters and a sprinkle of freshly grated nutmeg. Hits the spot every time!

*Author of The Boat Drinks Book if you want other cocktail inspiration!