Match of the week

Beetroot-cured salmon and Godello
Despite the razmatazz surrounding the launch of Dom Perignon 2003 and a serious amount of wine and truffle action to which I’ll devote more space shortly I’m picking a more modest match from last week - the delicious beetroot-cured salmon, capers and egg yolk and 2010 Godelia Godello I had at José Pizarro’s new London restaurant Pizarro.
This is the kind of dish you could easily pull off at home. Beetroot gives a nice note of earthiness and sweetness which counteracts the slight oiliness and smokiness of the salmon. The crisp citrussy Godello, the newly fashionable Spanish white, adds the equivalent of a squeeze of lemon. You’d think the egg would have an impact on the pairing but it simply adds an extra layer of richness.
The Godello would obviously go with other fish and shellfish dishes too such as crab - see the link below.

Ribs, bourbon and picklebacks
It’s not often these days that I hit on a totally new discovery but this combination at the newly opened Pitt Cue Co, a southern American-style ribshack is the business.
They do amazing beef ribs slathered with a sticky, smokey but not oversweet marinade and serve it with homemade pickles. Quite a challenging combination for any wine to cope with but spot on with a pickleback - a shot of bourbon served with a sweet and sour chaser of home-made pickle juice. It’s also great with the St Louis ribs - and, I almost forgot, the smoked hot wings. The wings are awesome.
Even better it’s only £4. (The ribs are a very reasonable £9.50)
The downside? Pitt Cue, which is in Newburgh Street which runs parallel to Carnaby Street, is a tiny 30 seater which doesn’t take bookings. Still, worth it to taste some of the best, if not the best barbecued food in London. If you can’t face the queue to sit down they do pulled pork buns to takeaway.

Dim sum and Champagne
A very Western approach to Chinese food, admittedly, but if you're celebrating Chinese New Year today with a dim sum lunch you'll find that Champagne - or other sparkling wine - makes a perfect pairing.
For those of you who haven't come across dim sum before they're bite-sized snacks that are traditionally served during the day in tea houses (tea, obviously being the more usual accompaniment). They're a mixture of flavours and textures - some delicate and steamed (usually seafood), some more robust or fried (like pork buns).
Champagne is always at home with delicate seafood dishes and with crisp, deep-fried foods and its slight sweetness keys in perfectly with with the subtle spicing. A good prosecco would also work well. You might possibly want to move on to a red with the meatier dim sum if you're having a long lunch or if you move on to duck, say, but if you're keeping it simple a glass of fizz is just fine.
See Square Meal for a list of London's best dim sum restaurants.

Bacon, egg and claret
You might think the idea of eating bacon and egg with good claret is sacrilege but bear with me.
When you've got a great bottle of Bordeaux you don't necessarily want anything too fancy to drink with it. I was put onto this combination by a friend who once worked for a tycoon who used to regularly crack open a bottle of Lafite or Latour for breakfast.
Now I'm sure the health police will ge me for saying this but it's a great combination. Maybe not before 11am but as a late breakfast or brunch. Rather less grand than the rib of beef with truffle jus you will find suggested on the Lafite website, but considerably more congenial, if I may say so, than the 'soft centred' chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream also recommended on the site.
You want a wine in which Cabernet makes up at least half of the blend, I suggest - not too young but not too venerable either.
Maybe a 'lunchtime claret' if funds won't stretch to first growths . . .
Go on, give it a try!

Sea bass rillettes and Joseph Burrier Mâcon-Vergisson 2007
One of the most reliable wine matches is white fish with white wine and cream and/or butter and white burgundy - one of those blissful combinations that actually makes the wine taste better than it otherwise would.
We unearthed the Mâcon-Vergisson in a bit of a post-Christmas cellar sort-out and thought it needed drinking up. On its own it was pleasant enough with a soft honeyed edge, but it was transformed into a dazzlingly elegant drink by a jar of La Paimpolaise wild sea bass rillettes, a rather pricey but delicious French fish pâté we bought from our local deli. Not an economic purchase for a crowd - you'd be better to make your own - but an indulgent pre-dinner treat for two. The French really are very good at posh food in tins and jars.
The wine came from The Wine Society - the current vintage is 2009. Chablis would also hit the spot.
Most popular
.jpg)
My latest book

News and views
.jpg)


