Tipsy cake, roast pineapple and Chateau d’Yquem

Let’s face it, I don’t get to drink Chateau d’Yquem every day so what else could last week’s match of the week be than this stellar pairing I had at Dinner at Heston Blumenthal?

It was a dessert called tipsy cake which has been on the menu since the restaurant opened. Hard to describe - it’s a bit like a superlight sugary brioche with a layer of gorgeous gooey Sauternes-laced sauce underneath and is served with spit-roast pineapple. That was the key to the match bringing out all the apricot and tropical fruit flavours in the 2011 Yquem we were tasting. The dessert is dated 1810 but I bet they didn’t produce such a delicious version as that in those days - as Heston acknowledges in this video.

As I mentioned the other day in my post on whether great wine needs to be aged as long as we think it does it was extraordinary to be served an Yquem as young as that. Instinctively it seemed like baby-snatching but it couldn’t have been more delicious.

It may be worth applying that principle to cheaper Sauternes and similar sweet Bordeaux wines. And maybe thinking of roast pineapple when you next want to create a knock-out wine pairing for Yquem should you be fortunate enough to find yourself in that position . . .

I ate at Dinner as a guest of Chateau d’Yquem.

Grosset off-dry riesling with a Chinese New Year’s Eve feast

We had a great feast with friends on Saturday night to celebrate the Chinese New Year, cooking a range of dishes from Fuchsia Dunlop’s fabulous Every Grain of Rice about which I was raving last week.

They included fiery fish-fragrant aubergines (right), beef with cumin (unusual for China), pungent dried shrimp with cabbage and a wonderfully quirky dish called ‘smacked cucumber’ which contained Sichuan pepper and chilli oil. A challenge for any wine.

I had high hopes of Jeffrey Grosset’s 2010 Off-Dry Watervale Riesling from the Clare Valley region of South Australia but couldn’t have imagined how well it would work.

It was superbly balanced with that trademark Clare Valley lime character but managed to be light (only 11.5%) and powerful at the same time and intensely flavoured enough to stand up to all the punchy flavours in the food.

In fact it was so dry I was amazed to find it contains 16g/litre of residual sugar according to Grosset's UK importer Liberty Wines. (The acidity is 9g per litre).

On the strength of that bottle I ordered six more (from Rannoch & Scott who still seem to have a few left at the time of writing as does slurp.co.uk and Australian Wines Online.

If you can find it, grab it. It’s among the best Aussie rieslings I’ve tasted, including Grosset’s own Polish Hill. The 2012 vintage, now called Alea*, is supposed to be even better.

* Possibly the 'off-dry' description may have created the wrong impression - don't let that put you off though.

Westcombe cheddar and apple pie and Blenheim Superb dessert cider

Last week we had one of our periodic Cheese Schools - an event where we explore the best artisanal British cheeses and pair different drinks with them. A regular feature is a beer vs wine ‘smackdown’ but I sneaked in this amazing Blenheim Superb dessert cider* from Once Upon a Tree with the pud.

It’s quite different from other ciders you’ve come across - more like a dessert wine or even an ice wine - luscious, sweet and appley. It seemed to me the perfect match for the Westcombe cheddar and apple pie that Source Food Cafe had cooked up as the final leg of our 5 course cheesy feast. And it trumped the opposition - a Domaine Durban Muscat-de-Beaumes-de-Venise dessert wine and Ninkasi sparkling apple-flavoured beer from the Wild Beer Co, brilliant though both those drinks were.

The other pairings, if you're interested, were:

Wild Beer Co’s Epic Saison and Domaine Begude ‘L’Etoile’ chardonnay from Limoux with Gorwydd Caerphilly croquettes with roast onion mayo (the Chardonnay won)

Colston Bassett Stilton arancini with an oak-aged old ale Modus Operandi and a Cava Brut reserva (the Modus Operandi won but I confess I preferred the Cava)

Ragstone (goats’ cheese) tart with Bliss - a beer aromatised with roasted apricots - and Mahi Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (thumbs up to the Mahi though I rather liked the Bliss)

Comté Tartiflette with Scarlet Fever red ale and Domaine Belluard Gringet ‘Les Alps’ (the Gringet - just - but it is the obvious terroir-based match.)

I wouldn’t say the wines outperformed the beers because it was generally much closer than that - more perhaps a question that people were more familiar with the flavours in the wines and less used to beer pairing. But do try the Wild Beer Co's beers if you get the opportunity - they’re widely stocked in and around Bristol. And the wines came from the newly opened Red & White who have a really interesting range.

If you want to be put on the mailing list for Cheese School email enquiries@cheeseschool.co.uk

* Interestingly it was also a winner at a wine v cider event at The Thatchers Arms near Colchester at the weekend.

Dom Pérignon rosé 2002 and sweet shrimp

I was in two minds about making this my match of the week because I’m not sure that the new DP vintage rosé - like many great wines - doesn’t taste better on its own.

But chances are if you’ve got a bottle you might want to accompany it with something and one of the courses we had at the international launch in Istanbul last week had the sort of flavours that I’d look for if I was ever in a position to repeat the exercise at home.

It was, in fact, two dishes - one of Iskenderun shrimps (a local delicacy) with chestnut chips and baked squash which brought an unusual note of sweetness to the party. Then, in a separate bowl, a shrimp’s head - roasted I’d say - served with a pool of an intensely dark fishy broth that tasted a bit like an armoricaine sauce.

And what of the wine? What does the 2002 DP rosé taste like? Well, it’s hard to divorce it from the circumstances and location in which we tasted it which was, of course, the object of the exercise. It was unexpectedly rich - something you might expect from a 2003 but less from a 2002 vintage though Dom Pérignon’s chef de cave Richard Geoffroy said ’02 was a riper year. I could pick up spice - mainly saffron - though that may have been auto-suggestion and a touch of rose. On the other hand maybe the exotic character of the wine inspired the venue.

Most remarkable of all though was the colour - a rich bronze which turned almost to orange in the sunlight, reflecting the vivid red hair of one of the journalists sitting opposite me at the tasting. I remember thinking they should have got Christina Hendricks to promote it but I guess Johnnie Walker got there first.

I don’t know at this stage what it will cost retail - my guess is slightly more than the £250 the 2000 vintage is currently selling for. Older vintages are over £300. So you might as well go for broke and drink it with a couple of lobsters. And maybe a glamourous redhead . . .