Duck a l’orange and Gramenon Poignée de Raisins 2011

It’s such a long time since I’ve eaten duck à l’orange that I’ve rather lost track of the best match for it but the vivid, joyous Gramenon Poignée de Raisins I was offered last week by the sommelier at Brasserie Chavot proved the perfect pairing.

Eric’s twist was to serve the duck, which was cooked rare, with caramelised endive (chicory) with created a bittersweet note that chimed beautifully with the dark sweet flavour of the orange-spiked sauce. (You can easily overdo the orange in this dish but he judged it perfectly.)

What you want is a bright red to pick up on that orange - a bit like a Cumberland sauce. Pinot Noir, my usual go-to for duck, seems a bit sweet on this occasion. I would normally have gone for a good Beaujolais like a Morgon but this ripe, delicious young Rhone - mainly Grenache from an organic and biodynamic estate - was the ideal counterpoint. It’s made pretty naturally with no fining or filtration and only the minimum of sulphur. (Poignée de raisins means a fistful of grapes.)

You can read more about the estate on Vinofreakism and Kermit Lynch websites and my meal at Brasserie Chavot here.

Soft boiled eggs with anchoiade and radicchio and Bourgueil

Last week’s best pairing was at a fascinating meal I had at Les 110 de Taillevent in Paris which I’ll be writing up in more detail so here’s an off-the-wall match from last night’s feast at The Unfiltered Dog - a pop up restaurant at the Real Wine Fair run by the team from Terroirs.

Basically it was a souped up egg mayonnaise - the eggs fashionably soft-boiled, the mayo made with anchoiade (anchovy paste) and accompanied by bitter radicchio leaves. A simple and very do-able starter.

By rights it shouldn’t have worked with the Domaine de la Chevalerie Bonn' Heure Bourgeuil 2010 - a light Loire red we had ordered to go with our meal but you know what? Sometimes these off-the-wall pairings work. There’s a saltiness in anchovies and a bitterness in radicchio that accentuated the very appealing fruit in the wine.

It also rubbed along fine with some other challenging dishes - scallops with XO sauce and pork belly with kimchee only faltering at the ferociously hot mustard that accompanied the salt beef. As anything except a lager would probably have done.

If I’d been thinking more about what to drink with these particular dishes rather than just ordering a bottle that appealed on an unseasonably cold night I’d have probably gone for a crisp white. But sometimes it’s fun to go off-piste.

Apologies for the rather unappetising photo. It was very dark!

Braised rabbit and Château Fond Cyprès Syrah de la Pinède

Most of this past week has been spent in Paris where almost every wine match is a good one. There’s been a lot of Beaujolais - and other Gamay - drinking and a fair amount of crisp dry whites such as Aligoté - but the pairing I’m going to pick is a Syrah I didn’t know with a stonking great plateful of braised rabbit at the legendary Baratin.

What’s clever about the cooking there is that it’s classic bistro food but with a wonderful lightness of touch. The rabbit wasn’t overwhelmed by the red wine it was cooked in merely anointed with it so you still had a sense of the delicacy of the meat. There was apparently a touch of cocoa in the sauce though I didn’t pick that up.

I was having an equally robust dish of roast pork with sauce pibil - a Mexican way of cooking with orange juice and annatto seed, as I later discovered. Again, not hot, not overly smoky, just incredibly delicious. (The chef Rachel Carena originally came from Argentina.)

We were looking for a syrah and settled on this one on the recommendation of the gaffer Philippe Pinoteau who selects the largely natural wine list. It’s a vivid, life-affirming young syrah called Syrah de la Pinède (the 2011 vintage), made on an organic estate called Château Fond Cyprès in the Corbières. One of their wines, Hope là, is imported by Naked Wines - not to universal appeal judging by the comments on the site but then natural wine isn't everybody's cup of tea. Maybe it needed decanting as Le Baratin did ours.

Syrah has a delicious savoury edge that works really well with dishes like this. It doesn’t even need to be French though almost invariably is in Paris ;-)

Venison cottage pie and a ‘lunchtime claret’

This week’s match is a blast from the past - a visit to the historic Rules restaurant in London’s Covent Garden where we tucked into the kind of food you’d have eaten 50 years ago - if not 100.

I hadn’t been for a long while but was inspired to book by a review in the Guardian by my colleague Marina O’Loughlin.

I was going to have steak and kidney pudding but saw this venison cottage pie being borne to another table adorned with an extravagant Elizabethan-style ruff and couldn’t resist it. It was richer than the usual beef version with shredded rather than minced meat and a wonderful golden topping that must have owed a good deal to butter and egg yolk.

The prices on the wine list are somewhat eye-watering (£15.95 for a glass of Joseph Perrier champagne!) so we made the wise decision to go with a carafe of Château le Pey cru bourgeois Médoc which they served in a rather splendid jug.

Coming from the excellent 2010 Bordeaux vintage it was deliciously ripe but still light and fragrant enough to be the perfect foil for the very rich pie - exactly the sort of wine that used to be referred to in the trade as a ‘lunchtime claret’.

The buffers at our next door table looked on approvingly (though were even more impressed by the Gin & It and White Lady we ordered to kick off our meal). Cocktails and claret are the way to go at Rules.

Oh, and Barsac which I can strongly recommend with a steamed syrup sponge. Yes, it was THAT kind of lunch . . .