Entertaining

A Valentine’s dinner for lazy lovers

A Valentine’s dinner for lazy lovers

Whatever you get up to on Valentine’s night (and truly, I’d rather not know) my guess is you’ve got better things to do than spend it slaving over a hot stove. So this is an unashamed cheat’s menu from the archives for you to romance your loved one with the absolute minimum of effort.

Needless to say, buy only the very best ingredients.

Smoked salmon and caviar blinis

Cute and tasty! And I’m talking about the blinis . . .

Serves 2

100g (3 1/2 oz) best quality (i.e. wild or, at the very least, organic) finely sliced smoked salmon
30g (1 oz) jar of caviar or a caviar substitute
A packet of miniature blinis
3 heaped tbsp crème fraîche
A little finely grated lemon rind

Mix the crème fraîche with a little finely grated lemon rind (Go easy. You don’t want it to be too lemony.) Arrange the smoked salmon artistically on the blinis, top with a blob of creme fraiche then spoon over a little caviare. That’s it.

Hot buttered lobster with garlic, basil and ginger

Strictly this dish is best made from scratch with a live lobster but butchering a lobster doesn’t strike me as the perfect prelude to a night of seduction.

(serves 2)

1 medium to large cooked lobster
60g (2 1/2 oz) butter
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
Juice of 1 small lime (about 2 tbsp)
1 tsp freshly grated ginger
14-16 basil leaves, finely shredded
Salt and cayenne pepper

Place the lobster, underside downwards on a chopping board and cut through it vertically with a large sharp knife. Carefully remove the white meat from the tail and remove the long thin membrane near the back. Remove the claws and crack them with lobster crackers or hit them smartly with a mallet. Carefully remove the meat, breaking it up as little as possible. Pick out any remaining white meat from the shell, scrape out the rest and discard. Cut the meat into largeish chunks.

Carefully transfer the empty shells to an ovenproof baking dish and reassemble the lobster meat in the shells. Preheat the grill. Melt the butter gently in a saucepan, stir in the garlic, lime juice and ginger and cook for a minute. Add the basil and season with salt and pepper. Spoon carefully over the lobster then place the baking dish under a hot grill for about 4 minutes until you can hear it begin to bubble. Serve with a rocket salad and chips or new potatoes.

Iced vodka and lemon sorbet

Those of you who’ve never tried frozen vodka may be amazed to discover that it doesn’t actually freeze if you put it in the freezer. But it becomes wonderfully cold and syrupy. This looks fantastic in frozen martini glasses. Leave them in the freezer compartment until you’re ready to serve up (or if there isn’t room fill them with ice and a little water then pour it out and dry them just before you spoon in the sorbet.

A ‘frozen’ bottle of vodka (keep in the freezer compartment until you need it)
A carton of good quality lemon sorbet

Take the sorbet out of the freezer and put it in the fridge about 20 minutes before you plan to serve it to make it soft enough to scoop. Spoon out a couple of generous scoops and place them in each frosted glass. Pour over 2-3 tbsp of frozen vodka. Await gasps of admiration.

* You can obviously make this with other sorbets. Raspberry goes well with vodka too

What to drink:
Quality rather than quantity is the name of the game on Valentine’s night (you don’t want to end up snoring . . . ) One good bottle of Champagne will see you through the first and second courses and the dessert contains its own alcohol. If you prefer, however, you could drink Champagne with the blinis and switch to a good white burgundy or top quality Chardonnay with the lobster.

Picture - not of the exact recipe - by BBA Photography at Shutterstock.com

How to throw a vodka and zakuski party

How to throw a vodka and zakuski party

A vodka party sounds dangerous, the sort of idea you used to come up when you were a student but think Russian- or Ukrainian-style hors d’oeuvres, or zakuski as they call them, and you’ve got a great theme for an evening with friends.

I threw one because I had a LOT of vodka in the house having just written a column on the subject. I admit that’s an advantage and that it could get expensive if you’re not in that fortunate position but you can always ask friends to bring a bottle if they’d like to share a vodka they’re enthusiastic about

I had shot glasses for those who wanted to taste different vodkas and bigger tumblers for those who wanted a longer drink like a vodka tonic, vodka and lime or a Bloody Mary. You could also put out a few martini glasses if you have them. (Don’t have enough of the right kind of glasses? Borrow them as I did!)

I set a table aside as a simple bar so that people could make their own drinks (or have them made for them by my more expert friends). There was ice and lemon available. Ideally I’d have frozen at least some of the bottles as frozen vodka is so delicious but there was no room in the freezer post-Christmas. I also laid in a stash of lager for which I also didn’t have room in the fridge so left in the cold outside the front door where it fortunately remained unspotted by the local student population. My guests were ready to switch to them after a few vodkas.

On the food side I had loads of smoked fish including smoked mackerel and smoked eel (served with horseradish and quark or sour cream) rollmop herrings (GREAT with vodka) smoked salmon and herbed cheese blinis (I’d have made home-made blinis if I’d had time but if you warm the bought ones through they’re fine).

I made some wonderfully retro stuffed eggs topped with lumpfish roe and a couple of salads - a beetroot, potato and gherkin salad from Olia Hercules’ Mamushka (and the addictively spicy Korean carrots from the same book) and a simple cucumber and dill salad.

A chef friend brought a borscht but we forgot to eat it. It’s now in the freezer for the next vodka party. Another friend Dan who works at Grillstock in Bristol brought Polish snacking sausage and barbequed chicken thighs, admittedly better suited to a bourbon bash but the everyone fell on them. Vodka can handle a bit of spice.

We had a couple of marmalade vodkas - Chase and Fortnum & Mason - which I’d got into my head would go brilliantly with florentines and managed to inveigle my friend Elly into making some. (They do). An alternative would be scoops of lemon sorbet with frozen vodka poured over them. Or maybe just on their own …. (too much vodka: ed)

There are plenty of other possibilities as you can see from this post on vodka pairings. Just make it as uncomplicated as possible and get your friends to pitch in and help. 

See also this account of a Polish vodka feast I attended back in 2007 and a vodka and caviar tasting at Petrossian in New York.

Photo ©golubovy at fotolia.com

What are the best pairings for pancakes?

What are the best pairings for pancakes?

If you’re planning a Pancake Day celebration for tomorrow and haven’t yet decided what to drink here are few ideas.

Like pasta the best match for pancakes depends on the topping or filling which can obviously be savoury or sweet. Very sweet - and hot - which can make the choice of an accompanying drink tricky.

Simple sugar and lemon pancakes
The classic British way. To be honest I prefer them on their own or with an aromatic cup of tea such as Lady Grey or Orange Pekoe but a sweet sparkling wine such as Moscato d’Asti or Clairette de Die should work if you don’t overdo the lemon. A sparkling ice-wine (the Canadian winery Inniskillin does one) would probably be perfect

Pancakes with fresh berries like strawberries, raspberries or blueberries
A sparkling rosé (or, of course, rosé champagne) with a touch of sweetness pairs well with this lighter style of pancake topping/filling. You could also try a sparkling framboise made with a raspberry liqueur topped up with sparkling wine.

Pancakes with golden or maple syrup
Tricky especially if the topping is maple syrup and the dish also includes bacon. Black tea or a black Americano coffee for me but them I don’t have a particularly sweet tooth. If you do you could always try an Australian liqueur muscat

Pancakes with chocolate sauce
A strong sweet red wine like port would probably work but might be just too much of a good thing. Black - or white - coffee again, if anything.

Pancakes with a cherry, apricot or other fruit compote
Very good with a complementary fruit beer - kriek with cherry-filled pancakes, a peach or apricot-flavoured beer with apricot filled ones. With apple and cinnamon filled crepes you could serve a conventional dessert wine - cooked apples suit most of them but I'd be tempted by a youngish Tokaji

Savoury pancakes with cheese and ham or spinach
Dry or sparkling cider is a great match for Breton-style pancakes, particularly if they’re made with buckwheat. Otherwise a smooth dry white wine such as a Pinot Blanc, Soave or Gavi will all work fine

Smoked salmon blinis
Champagne, sparkling wine or iced vodka

Crispy duck pancakes
Not a traditional Shrove Tuesday treat but while we’re in pancake mode . . . Hard to beat a good Pinot Noir

Image By Melica at shutterstock.com

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