Six top tips for creating a vegan and gluten-free barbecue

Just because you're gluten or dairy-intolerant doesn't mean you have to miss out on the barbecue fun as food writer Monica Shaw demonstrates.

"Barbecues are often considered the domain of meat lovers, perched around the bbq over a slab of spare ribs or a stack of beefy burgers. But there’s no reason that cooking with fire need be restricted to meat.

Plant-based food is equally viable BBQ fare, and is indeed often best when prepared over the coals. There’s no need to be mystified when it comes to vegan / gluten free grilling. Here’s a few options to get you started.

• Veggie burgers are ubiquitous but the kind you buy in packages are often disappointing. Try making your own, for example, The Really Hungry Burger from Anna Jones works great on the grill
• Grilled vegetables are always an option and can be amped up with spice rubs and marinades. My favourite BBQ veg include: courgettes, onions, aubergine, mushrooms, sweetcorn, peppers, and tomatoes. Just coat with oil, and season with salt, pepper, and (optionally) a tasty spice blend such as jerk spices or ras el hanout. For a killer kebab, try the Tofu Kebabs with Muhamarra from 101 Cookbooks.
• Tempeh is my all time favourite “meaty” option for the BBQ. Try the Maple, Lime and Chipotle Tempeh Tacos from Demuths Cookery School, which are gluten-free, too, when served with corn tortillas.
• Gluten Free BBQ options are easier than you might think. Corn tortillas are just one idea, or try farinata / socca (made with chickpea flour) as an alternative to flatbread. And don’t forget carb-happy BBQ side dishes. Favourites include Heston Blumenthal’s Crushed Jersey Royals and Riverford’s Griddled Leeks with Wild Rice and Quinoa.
• Don’t forget dips. All manners of BBQ things are better when paired with a tasty dip or savoury drizzle. My favourites are baba ganoush and salsa macha, but even straight up tahini or olive oil will do. And they all go well with both meaty dishes and vegan dishes, so everyone can enjoy a grand bbq together, whatever your dietary preferences!
• In terms of drinks the only drink that can potentially cause problems for the gluten-intolerant according to Coeliac UK is beer though there are now quite a few gluten free brews. Cider is a delicious gluten-free alternative for a barbecue. Wine is not a problem from the point of view of gluten but some products used in fining such as casein (milk protein) and egg white make them off-limits for vegans. Most supermarket own label wines indicate their suitability for vegans on the back label as do wines sold by organic specialists such as Vintage Roots.

Images taken at Demuths, Bath ©Rob Wicks of Eat Pictures

Why Cava is cool for a barbecue

Advertising feature: Cava might not be the first bottle you’d think of taking to or serving at a barbecue but if you think of it simply as a meal cooked over fire rather than under the grill or in the oven why not? And being an exceptionally food-friendly wine it will sail through.

Coming mainly from the south of Spain the D.O. Cava is much warmer than that of champagne which means there’s a ripeness and richness in the wines that can cope with the big flavours of grilled food. Added to that the depth and complexity that comes with bottle ageing (all wines are a cava de guarda and have a minimum of nine months ageing) and you can even pair it with spicy meats and marinades.

Which bottle you choose depends on what you're eating. Younger, more inexpensive cavas will be better with lighter foods like simply cooked fish and vegetables , reservas which have to be aged for 18 months can handle more robust flavours while a gran reserva which is aged for at least 30 months would be a treat with a whole fish or a lobster. If you see a vintage date on the label that's an indication of a more complex style.

And don't just think of the main ingredient - think how you can complement it. Summer vegetables such as peppers, courgettes (zucchini) and corn will all be lovely with cava - as will cornbread if you bake some as a side.

Then there’s seafood. Who doesn’t want to chuck a prawn on the barbie? Especially at the beach! There’a a fantastic hit of umami you get from the smoky shell. Not to mention the lovely sweetness of seared scallops. Put a piece of tuna on a hot grill and it’s suddenly a great match for a glass of cava - a reserva in this case I'd suggest.

Two great prawn recipes to grill on the BBQ

Then there are of course all the little nibbly bits you lay on to take the edge off your appetite while you’re waiting for the fish or meat to cook. Cava is brilliant with anything deep fried so if you’ve got a mate who’s a dab hand at croquetas get them on the job. Otherwise simple bought in tapas like olives, cheese and, especially, ham will all work brilliantly. Cava will go well with a creamy dip too. Or a few oysters. The fact that cava contains minimal added sugar makes it a great match for raw and lightly cooked shellfish.

You can also accent your Cava by the ingredients you put in your salads and sides. Fresh berries, barberries or pomegranate seeds for example will bring out the pretty berry fruit in a rosé Cava, known in Spain as rosado. It’s also great with the crispy croutons (and parmesan) in a caesar salad too. Grill some peaches or nectarines alongside your chicken and it will bring out the peachy notes in a Cava.

Then just sit late into the evening and enjoy your last glass with a nibble of cheese.

Happy days!

4 cavas to enjoy with your BBQ

Anna de Cordoniu Blanc de Blancs

A blend of chardonnay, parellada and other indigenous grape varieties this has the typically creamy consistency of a blanc de blancs

Drink with: A perfect aperitif to drink with creamy dips, croquetas and tapas before a barbecue but it would perfect with grilled seafood like scallops too

Gran Baron Cava Metodo Tradicional Bio-organic

This attractively rounded organic Cava would be a good wine to serve at a veggie barbecue - or with grilled chicken if you eat meat.

Vins El Cep Mim Natura Brut Nature Reserva 2016

This rich toasty but dry ‘brut nature’ style is would be a good pairing with grilled prawns - or even lobster. Or a whole grilled fish. Take it on a beach BBQ!

Treasure Gold Black Label Cava Brut

Pick up on the imagery of this dramatic-looking bottle by serving it with a Mexican-style barbecue feast. It’s soft, rich appley fruit would be great with carnitas and with tortillas and tacos.

For other ideas of what to serve with Cava see the 'Discover' section of the Cava website.

Want to learn more about Cava?

The Cava Academy has just launched an online cava training school for wine industry professionals to help them dive deeper into the history and personalities behind a glass of Cava, The curriculum offers audio-visual content, videos and interactive tests that make the learning process enjoyable, intuitive and adaptable to the pace of each student.

Tastings will be conducted by leading wine professionals and Cava ambassadors, including Pedro Ballesteros MW and Ferran Centelles and members of the innovative Basque Culinary Center in the form of educational video tutorials.

Upon completion of an exam at the end of the course, successful candidates will receive a Certified Cava Trainer diploma and gain access to the Cava Academy Alumni community. I

In addition, once travel restrictions from the pandemic are lifted, course graduates will be able to participate in a 2- or 3-day visit to the Cava region to experience winery visits as well as masterclasses focused on Cava’s gastronomic versatility.

Pictures by Nick Austin.

This is an advertising feature in association with D.O.Cava

Women on fire: top tips from two of the UK’s best BBQ chefs

In most households men are in charge of the barbecue but there’s a small but influential band of women moving onto their territory and transforming the way we think about grilling

I talked to two, food writer Helen Graves (above right) the editor of Pit Magazine and Genevieve Taylor (left) author of Charred and Foolproof BBQ who runs the Bristol Fire School to find out how they got into fire and get their top tips

What got you into BBQing and how did you become the chief firelighter in your household

Helen

There’s no romantic backstory here; it’s more a case that I want to eat everything, always, and barbecue was a natural extension of the kitchen for me - a case of, what’s that all about, then? When I tried it I became fascinated by the extra dimension of flavour that smoke and char can add to foods. I think of that flavour more as an ingredient than a technique, I suppose.

I was always quite experimental with what I cooked on the BBQ though, and as time went by I started to become frustrated by what was often a one dimensional narrative: all big pieces of meat, cheeseburgers and flame aprons. What were the real stories? We tend to focus on one style cooked by one group of people here in the UK, and while I’ve nothing against that, it’s not interesting to me. That’s where Pit magazine came from: a desire to start conversations around live fire cooking that looked through a wider cultural lens.

Genevieve

It started with wanting to be outside which is where I’m at my happiest. When the kids are little and you’re feeding them three times a day you want to mix it up a bit - it was my way of breaking the shackles of domesticity. When they were small they wanted to join in but now they’re too cool!

Why don’t women barbecue more? I think it’s a confidence thing. They don’t know where to start but women are brilliant at fire cooking because we’re so adept at multi-tasking.

Suppose you want to have your first crack at BBQ what are the first few essential steps

Genevieve

The key thing is to know where to place the food in relation to the heat. You should only put your fuel in half the barbecue so you have somewhere to move the food if the charcoal gets too hot. 75-80% of foods are better off cooking over indirect heat. If you take it slow you get a more juicy end result with food that is also cooked through.

It’s also worth getting a chimney starter because it creates an efficient airflow and gets the barbecue going faster. The only three things you need to light a fire are fuel, ignition (a match) and oxygen

Helen

Get yourself a basic kettle BBQ with a lid, because that will allow you to cook most things. You will also want a chimney starter, some decent firelighters like the natural ones made from ‘wood wool’ and the best quality charcoal you can afford. Grab a pair of tongs and you’re all set.

The other thing to remember is to set up your BBQ with the coals banked to one side, so that you’ve got a range of heat zones where you can crisp things up, cook them slowly or even just keep them warm.

And the mistakes that most beginners make?

Helen

The two things for me are the charcoal, and the way it’s allowed to burn before cooking. Buy the best charcoal you can afford, because the cheap stuff is pumped full of chemicals and you will need to wait a long time for those chemicals to burn off before you can start cooking. Good quality charcoal will be ready much faster and won’t taint your food.

Genevieve

It’s bollocks that you have to wait until you get a layer of white ash. That’s because most charcoal is full of chemicals and you have to burn them off. You can get good British charcoal going in 5 minutes.

And people tend to spread coals all over the base of the BBQ. As I said, you need set up zones in your fire.

How big or expensive a barbecue do you need to buy?

Helen

There are so many BBQs on the market now and yeah, it’s fun to play with big, shiny toys but most things can be cooked on a standard kettle BBQ. I use my large Weber kettle the most often.

Genevieve

I have lots of different barbecues at Fire School but you really only need one standard kettle style barbecue. You shouldn’t need to spend more than £200-300. Weber is a good compromise between space, budget and style.

Charcoal or gas?

Genevieve

Charcoal every time. You need to think about fuel as your principal ingredient. In the UK we tend to approach BBQ in an ad hoc way. When the sun is shiningI we rush off and buy a bag of charcoal and a pack of sausages from the supermarket but the charcoal most likely comes from tropical hardwood from South America or West Africa, probably illegally harvested. There’s no point in spending £30-40 on beautiful grass-fed salt aged beef and cook it on chemically laden charcoal. I generally buy sustainable British charcoal from Whittle & Flame

I’d also add wood into the equation for a smoky flavour. Smoking isn't tricky - you can smoke on any barbecue with a lid.

Helen

I’m a charcoal gal, because you won’t get the same results from a gas BBQ. For example, the fat dripping onto the coals creates smoke, which creates flavour. That’s not achievable with an outdoor hob. I hate snobbery when it comes to cooking, so do what you want, but don’t expect the same results.

Charcoal production is an ancient skill and we should support it - it’s a joy to burn and I never get tired of lighting it and hearing it ‘sing’ - good charcoal makes a sort of tinkling sound when you light it, which always makes me excited. That sound is full of promise.

What's the best way to get out of the burger, banger and chicken leg rut

Helen

Meat in a bun does tend to define most BBQs, and I think the best way to combat that is to think seasonally. E.g. If it's spring then asparagus might be in, and a lot of vegetables just need tossing in a little oil and grilling quickly - sprinkle them with sea salt and you have something wonderful as they have softened and sweetened yet charred around the edges. I also love grilling small new potatoes until they turn wrinkly and serving them on cold yoghurt with spiced chilli butter. Of course, roots can be wrapped in foil can be chucked into the coals, too.

Genevieve

People are always amazed that you can cook a roast Sunday lunch on the barbecue. You can even bake a cake over indirect heat - it works just like a fan oven.

Favourite ingredient to put on the grill?

Genevieve

My world is all about meat at the moment as I’ve been working on recipes for my new book Seared but in general veg really excite me. Meat is delicious but quite one dimensional. With veg you get so many colours and textures - squishy and crunchy, red, green, yellow … You can layer them with herbs and nuts. There are so many options

Helen

At the moment, I love lamb ribs. The fat goes all crackly and crisp, and the inside is butter soft. Lamb is one of my all time favourite ingredients, to be honest. Mainly because the flavour is strong and it can take a lot of spice. I don’t do subtle flavours, as a general rule. I also love grilling small new potatoes though, and soft stone fruits like peaches and nectarines, to eat with salty cheese.

What country’s barbecuing tradition do you most admire?

Helen

There are so many! I love Turkish barbecue and I love the ocakbasi. The way the coals are really burnt down to embers and the kebabs or vegetables really cook very slowly over them, absorbing all that smoke. I also love grilled shellfish, and particularly the 'snails' (my friend Liliane Nguyen told me all shellfish are known as snails) in Vietnam and Cambodia. I love very simply grilled seafood like that, which preserves the sweetness of the meat and doesn’t overpower it. That's what inspired the prawns with chilli salt recipe.

Genevieve

There’s not a country that doesn’t have a cuisine based on fire-cooking. Fire is where it all began. I’m really into using spices and herbs so I’m naturally drawn to food from south-east Asia. There’s a great tradition of Khmer barbecue in Cambodia. Thai BBQ is great then there’s Mexico, south America ….

What are your top tips for barbecuing for a crowd?

Genevieve

It just needs more advance prep in the kitchen - doing your chopping, making your marinades and sauces. But get people to help. Friends who would never come over and help if you were at the hob in the kitchen are happy to pitch in. They regard the cooking as part of the occasion.

Helen

Keep it simple with things that can be piled onto big platters, so wings are great, and so are big grilled vegetables plates with a killer dressing. Add a contrasting texture such as some toasted seeds or grilled bread croutons and you can’t go wrong. Over complicating things is where it will unravel. This isn’t the time to try cooking a brisket for the first time, for example.

Beer, wine or cocktails with a BBQ?

Helen

All of the above, in my opinion. Beer is an obvious choice but I love to serve a dark rose with lamb chops, for example, or something more gritty and oxidative with pork shoulder would be quite lovely actually. I’m generally not that into orange wines, but I could see the herbal edges working well with the sweet richness of that slow cooked meat.

Genevieve

I’m not a great lover of cocktails. Beer when I’m cooking and wine when I’m eating!

Get more barbecue tips from Genevieve’s two books Charred and Foolproof BBQ or sign up to book a class at her Bristol Fire School You can follow her on instagram @GenevieveEats

Follow Helen on instagram @foodstories and subscribe to Pit Magazine here

A Middle-Eastern inspired barbecue for eight

Here's a barbecue I've dug out of the archives - a middle-eastern inspired BBQ from my book Food, Wine and Friends.

The centrepiece is a spiced, butterflied leg of lamb served with a delicious Turkish-style bulghur wheat salad called Kisir. Finish with grilled nectarines or, if you prefer to have your dessert prepared ahead, some refreshing wine jellies.

I’m not a big fan of starters with barbecues but you could offer a selection of bought-in mezze - some hummus and beetroot dip (Waitrose does a good one in their new Levant range) stuffed vine leaves, olives and flatbread. If you want to add a home-made element (which always gives the impression you’ve made the lot!) try my charred aubergine salad.

Charred Aubergine Salad

There’s a popular middle-eastern dip which involves charring or roasting an aubergine then gouging out the flesh and making a dip. I’ve never been really grabbed by it because a) it takes ages to make b) turns a dirty beige colour and c) you discard the skin which is the best bit. Here’s the solution - a salad which includes all those lovely smoky flavours.

Serves 4-6 as part of a selection of starters. Double the quantities if serving it one its own

2 medium or 1 large aubergine (about 500g)
4 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion (about 100g), peeled and roughly chopped
1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
2 medium tomatoes, skinned, de-seeded and diced
2 tbsp roughly chopped parsley and 1 tbsp chopped mint leaves
1 - 1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp ground cumin
Salt and pepper

Cut the stalks off each aubergine, cut in half lengthways then cut into cubes. Heat a wok for about 2 minutes over a high heat, add the oil, heat for a few seconds then tip in the aubergine cubes. Stir fry over a moderate heat for about five minutes until lightly browned then turn the heat down low, add the onion and garlic, stir, cover the pan and cook gently for a further 15 minutes, stirring from time to time. Tip the aubergine into a shallow dish while you prepare the other ingredients. When the aubergine is cool (about 20 minutes), cut it up roughly with a knife and fork then mix in the chopped tomato, parsley and mint. Season with lemon juice, cumin and salt and pepper and serve with warm pitta bread.

6 good wine pairings for aubergine/eggplant

Butterflied leg of lamb with cumin, lemon and garlic

A butterflied leg of lamb - one where the bone is removed and the meat opened up to create a huge flat piece of meat - is one of the tastiest, simplest and most impressive dishes to barbecue. Order it in advance from a butcher and he’ll do all the hard work for you.

Serves 8

1 large butterflied leg of lamb (about 2-2.5kg)
For the marinade
2 large cloves of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tsp coarse sea salt
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp Herbes de Provence
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1/4 tsp crushed chillies
Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tbsp)
3 tbsp olive oil

Put the garlic, sea salt, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, Herbes de Provence, black peppercorns and chillies in a mortar and pound with a pestle until the garlic breaks down and you have a thick paste. (Or whizz them in a spice grinder) Gradually work in the lemon juice and oil. Work over the meat with a small, sharp knife, cutting away any excess fat then cut the meat into two or three manageable pieces. Put the meat in a roasting tin, rub in the marinade, cover and leave in a cool place for at least 2 hours. Heat a gas barbecue to the maximum setting or light a charcoal barbecue and cook over an indirect heat for 15-20 minutes depending on the thickness of the meat and how well you like it cooked, turning it half way through the cooking time. Remove to a platter or carving dish, cover lightly with foil and rest for 15 minutes. Slice thinly and serve with kisir (below), a mixed leaf salad and some warm flatbread.

Top wine pairings for lamb

Kisir

This Turkish-inspired recipe is the perfect party salad. You can vary it depending on what you have available substituting walnuts for hazelnuts or pistachios for example, adding some olives or some finely snipped dried apricots or replacing the dill with fresh coriander.

Serves 8

250g bulghur (cracked wheat)
50g roasted hazelnuts, chopped
50g shelled pistachios, roughly chopped
5-6 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
1/2 a cucumber, peeled, de-seeded and finely chopped
1 red ramiro pepper, halved, de-seeded and finely chopped
3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped
1 pomegranate
Juice of 2 lemons (about 6 tbsp)
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chilli flakes
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp pomegranate syrup or 2 tsp balsamic vinegar and 1 tsp sugar
5 tbsp finely chopped parsley
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
3 tbsp finely chopped dill
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the bulghur in a large bowl and pour over enough boiling water to just cover the grain. Leave for 15 minutes for the liquid to absorb then pour over plenty of cold water, swirl the grain around and tip the grain into a sieve. Squeeze the grain with your hands to extract any excess water and return the grain to the bowl. Add the chopped nuts, sliced spring onions, and chopped cucumber, pepper and tomatoes (including the seeds and pulp). Halve the pomegranate and scoop out the seeds, reserving the juice and discarding the pith. Add the pomegranate seeds to the salad. Whisk the lemon juice and reserved pomegranate juice with the salt, cumin and chilli flakes, whisk in the olive oil and pomegranate syrup or balsamic vinegar and sugar and season with salt and pepper. Tip into the salad and mix well. Finally mix in the chopped herbs. Toss well together and check the seasoning adding more salt, pepper or lemon juice to taste. Cover and set aside for at least an hour for the flavours to infuse.

Grilled nectarines with Greek yoghurt and honey

You can barbecue fruit just as easily as vegetables though it helps to have a separate rack to lay them on so they don’t fall off or end up tasting of garlic and spices!

Serves 8

6-8 medium sized ripe nectarines
50g butter
Flavourless cooking oil
1 tbsp unrefined caster sugar mixed with 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 large carton Greek yoghurt
Some good, preferably Greek, runny honey

Run a knife vertically round the outside of each nectarine, cutting through to the stone. Holding one half of the fruit in each hand, twist them in different directions to pull them apart. Cut out the stone if it hasn’t come away. Melt the butter gently in a small saucepan or microwave and brush or smear it over the nectarine halves. Lightly grease a rack with flavourless oil and lay the peaches on it, cut side downwards. Barbecue for 10-15 minutes (depending how hot your barbecue is) turning them half way through the cooking time and sprinkling the cinnamon sugar over them. Serve with dollops of Greek yoghurt and drizzle with honey.
* If you haven’t got enough heat left in the barbecue roast the peaches in a lightly oiled roasting tin at 220°C/425°F/Gas 7 for 15 minutes, turning them as described above.

Wine (and other) pairings for peaches and nectarines

Sparkling Shiraz and Summer Berry Jellies

Serves 8

About 6 sheets of gelatine (but check the pack for the amount you need for the amount of liquid you’re using)
750ml sparkling shiraz or other sparkling red wine
6-8 tbsp sugar syrup*
600g mixed berries - strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, black currants or redcurrants
2-3 tbsp caster sugar, depending how ripe your fruit is

Place the gelatine in a flat dish and sprinkle over 4 tbsp cold water. Leave to soak for 3 minutes until soft. Heat the sparkling shiraz in a microwave or saucepan until hot but not boiling. Tip the soaked gelatine into the wine and stir to dissolve then set aside to cool. Rinse the berries, cut the strawberries into halves or quarters then put them into a shallow bowl, sprinkle over 2-3 tablespoons of sugar and leave them to macerate. Check the liquid jelly for sweetness adding sugar syrup to taste - you’ll probably need 6-8 tablespoons. Put an assortment of berries in the bottom of eight glasses or glass dishes then pour over enough jelly to cover them. Put the glasses in the fridge to chill. As soon as the jelly in the glasses has set (about an hour) add the rest of the fruit and jelly. Return to the fridge to set for another 45 minutes to an hour before serving with cream or vanilla ice cream
* To make the sugar syrup dissolve 125g of sugar in 150ml of water. Heat gently together in a pan then when all the grains are dissolved, bring to the boil and simmer for 2-3 minutes. You can use the syrup immediately or cool it and store it for up to two weeks in the fridge.

Sparkling Nectarine and Blueberry Jellies

Serves 8

6 sheets of gelatine ((but check the pack for the amount you need for the amount of liquid you’re using)
750ml sparkling peach flavoured wine
200g fresh blueberries
3 medium-sized ripe nectarines
2 tbsp lemon juice

Place the gelatine in a flat dish and sprinkle over 4 tbsp cold water. Leave to soak for 3 minutes until soft. Heat the peach cocktail in a microwave or saucepan until hot but not boiling. Tip the gelatine into the peach wine and stir to dissolve then set aside to cool. Cut round the nectarines and twist each half in opposite directions to pull them apart. Cut them into cubes and sprinkle with lemon juice. Rinse the blueberries. Put a few blueberries and cubes of nectarine in the bottom of eight glasses or glass dishes then pour over jelly to cover. Put the glasses in the fridge to chill. As soon as the jelly in the glasses has set add the remaining fruit and jelly. Return to the fridge to set for another 45 minutes to an hour before serving.

What to drink:
I’d drink a crisp lemony white such as a Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda or Greek Assyrtiko or a rosé with the mezze. Almost any ripe, fruity medium-bodied red you enjoy would work with the lamb - I’d probably go for a Merlot, Syrah or Languedoc red such as Faugères or Minervois (you might also offer pomegranate juice for non-drinkers which would go very well with the salad). If you’re serving the nectarines you could serve a chilled Greek or southern French Muscat. The jellies are probably boozy enough already!

Top picture by Food Via Lenses at shutterstock.com though not a picture of the actual recipe. (You have to get the book for that 😉)