Entertaining

A Valentine’s dinner for lazy lovers

A Valentine’s dinner for lazy lovers

Whatever you get up to on Valentine’s night (and truly, I’d rather not know) my guess is you’ve got better things to do than spend it slaving over a hot stove. So this is an unashamed cheat’s menu from the archives for you to romance your loved one with the absolute minimum of effort.

Needless to say, buy only the very best ingredients.

Smoked salmon and caviar blinis

Cute and tasty! And I’m talking about the blinis . . .

Serves 2

100g (3 1/2 oz) best quality (i.e. wild or, at the very least, organic) finely sliced smoked salmon
30g (1 oz) jar of caviar or a caviar substitute
A packet of miniature blinis
3 heaped tbsp crème fraîche
A little finely grated lemon rind

Mix the crème fraîche with a little finely grated lemon rind (Go easy. You don’t want it to be too lemony.) Arrange the smoked salmon artistically on the blinis, top with a blob of creme fraiche then spoon over a little caviare. That’s it.

Hot buttered lobster with garlic, basil and ginger

Strictly this dish is best made from scratch with a live lobster but butchering a lobster doesn’t strike me as the perfect prelude to a night of seduction.

(serves 2)

1 medium to large cooked lobster
60g (2 1/2 oz) butter
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
Juice of 1 small lime (about 2 tbsp)
1 tsp freshly grated ginger
14-16 basil leaves, finely shredded
Salt and cayenne pepper

Place the lobster, underside downwards on a chopping board and cut through it vertically with a large sharp knife. Carefully remove the white meat from the tail and remove the long thin membrane near the back. Remove the claws and crack them with lobster crackers or hit them smartly with a mallet. Carefully remove the meat, breaking it up as little as possible. Pick out any remaining white meat from the shell, scrape out the rest and discard. Cut the meat into largeish chunks.

Carefully transfer the empty shells to an ovenproof baking dish and reassemble the lobster meat in the shells. Preheat the grill. Melt the butter gently in a saucepan, stir in the garlic, lime juice and ginger and cook for a minute. Add the basil and season with salt and pepper. Spoon carefully over the lobster then place the baking dish under a hot grill for about 4 minutes until you can hear it begin to bubble. Serve with a rocket salad and chips or new potatoes.

Iced vodka and lemon sorbet

Those of you who’ve never tried frozen vodka may be amazed to discover that it doesn’t actually freeze if you put it in the freezer. But it becomes wonderfully cold and syrupy. This looks fantastic in frozen martini glasses. Leave them in the freezer compartment until you’re ready to serve up (or if there isn’t room fill them with ice and a little water then pour it out and dry them just before you spoon in the sorbet.

A ‘frozen’ bottle of vodka (keep in the freezer compartment until you need it)
A carton of good quality lemon sorbet

Take the sorbet out of the freezer and put it in the fridge about 20 minutes before you plan to serve it to make it soft enough to scoop. Spoon out a couple of generous scoops and place them in each frosted glass. Pour over 2-3 tbsp of frozen vodka. Await gasps of admiration.

* You can obviously make this with other sorbets. Raspberry goes well with vodka too

What to drink:
Quality rather than quantity is the name of the game on Valentine’s night (you don’t want to end up snoring . . . ) One good bottle of Champagne will see you through the first and second courses and the dessert contains its own alcohol. If you prefer, however, you could drink Champagne with the blinis and switch to a good white burgundy or top quality Chardonnay with the lobster.

Picture - not of the exact recipe - by BBA Photography at Shutterstock.com

A Hallowe’en supper for 4-6

A Hallowe’en supper for 4-6

With Hallowe’en coming up the track here’s a sophisticated supper for those of you who don’t have to go out trick or treating . . .

Hot Chilli Butternut Squash Soup

Butternut squash makes terrific soup with a super-smooth velvety texture and fabulously festive colour.

Serves 4-6

1 large butternut squash (about 1-1.2kg)
4 tbsp sunflower or light olive oil
1 large onion - or 2 medium ones - peeled and roughly chopped
2 cloves of garlic
1 1/2 tsp each of coriander, cumin and paprika
A good pinch of saffron (about 20 filaments)
1 1/2 x 400g cans premium peeled plum tomatoes
850ml homemade vegetable stock or stock made with Marigold vegetable bouillon powder
Salt
About 1/2 tsp hot pepper sauce - or more to taste

To serve:
3 fresh corn tortillas
250ml corn or sunflower oil
1 small carton sour cream
3 tbsp picked coriander leaves

Heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Wipe the butternut squash with a damp cloth, cut in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Put 2 tbsp of the sunflower oil in a roasting tin, turn the squash in the oil then lay them in the tin cut side down. Bake for about 40 minutes until soft. Remove from the oven and set aside for 10-15 minutes until cool enough to handle.

Meanwhile soak the saffron in 2 tbsp of warm stock. Fry the onion gently for 10 minutes in the remaining oil until soft but not coloured. Add the crushed garlic, cumin, coriander and paprika and cook for a minute then add the plum tomatoes and their juices. Crush them with a wooden spoon and cook for about 5 minutes until you have a pulpy sauce.

Scoop the pulp out of the squash, place half of it in a blender or food processor along with any juices in the baking tin, and half the tomatoes, onions and soaked saffron and blitz until completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Pour the soup back into a large saucepan and stir in the stock. Add hot sauce and salt to taste.

To serve cut the tortillas into fine strips. Heat 250ml of corn oil in a wok over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes and drop in the tortilla strips a few at a time. They should puff up and crisp in about 15 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towel. To serve ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle over a swirl of sour cream, top with a few strips of crispy tortilla, and scatter over a few coriander leaves.

Wine suggestion: Big buttery chardonnays go well with butternut squash or you could try a viognier.

Beef, Fig and Chestnut casserole

I was inspired to make this by an article by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall in the Guardian which suggested using chutney as a quick way to add flavour to a tagine. Coincidentally there was a jar of fig relish sitting on the counter of my local butchers which, together with a glut of red wine left over from a tasting, prompted me to make this deliciously festive recipe.

Serves 4-6

1 kg thickly sliced shin (leg) of beef, preferably organic
4 tbsp sunflower or light olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and thickly sliced
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, scrubbed and cut into chunks
1 1/2 tsp mixed spice
1/2 tsp smoked pimenton or paprika
1 tbsp tomato paste or 2 tbsp tomato ketchup
1 tbsp plain flour
250ml full-bodied red wine + extra to finish the dish
250ml beef stock made with 1/2 an organic beef stock cube
2 tbsp fig relish or conserve (I used Trucklements organic fig relish)
100g vacuum packed chestnuts
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut the beef up into generously sized chunks, cutting away any excess fat (but not the connective tissue which will give the stew its flavour). Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a casserole or frying pan and brown the meat well on all sides (you might need to do this in two batches) Remove the meat from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the remaining oil to the pan and fry the onions over a low heat until beginning to soften (about 5-6 minutes). Add the garlic, cook for a minute more and then add the carrots, stir and fry for a couple more minutes. Sprinkle the vegetables with mixed spice and pimenton, stir and cook for a few seconds then stir in the tomato paste and the flour. Cook for a minute then add the red wine and stock. Bring to the boil, stirring until thickened then stir in the fig relish.

Return the meat and any juices to the pan, bring back to simmering point then cover the pan and turn the heat down to the lowest possible setting (or put in a low oven ( 150° C/300° F/Gas 2). Cook for 3 - 3 1/2 hours until the meat is completely tender. If the stew is cooking too quickly (the top should barely tremble) turn the heat down or remove the lid (You can also do this if you want to thicken the sauce). You can cool the stew at this point and reheat it later or refrigerate it and serve it the next day.
When you’re ready to serve the stew, add the chestnuts and about half a glass of red wine and heat through.

Check the seasoning adding salt and pepper to taste. It should be quite rich and sweet but if you find it too much so (it will depend on the fig conserve and the wine you use) add a few drops of red wine or balsamic vinegar and cook until the vinegar taste disappears. You could serve this with mash (or a mixture of mashed swede and carrot) or pureed parsnips and a dark leafy green vegetable such as spring cabbage or cavolo nero.

What to drink: an Australian shiraz is excellent with this dish but you could also try an Argentine Malbec.

Roast pumpkin and pecan pie

This recipe may look slightly daunting but I promise you it is worth the effort (and the satisfaction of being able to use the leftover pumpkin from your pumpkin lanterns). You can use a can of pumpkin puree and ready made sweet pastry or a precooked pastry shell to save time but it won’t taste quite as good. Obviously you could also serve this at a Thanksgiving dinner.

Serves 6

For the pastry
250g plain flour
1 tsp ground ginger
2 tbsp icing sugar
110g chilled butter
25g Cookeen or other vegetable shortening
1 egg yolk (save the white)
Pinch of salt

For the pumpkin puree
500g pumpkin flesh
1 tbsp bourbon or dark rum
1 tbsp light muscovado sugar
1/4 tsp mixed spice
15g chilled butter

For the pie filling
The pumpkin puree as described above
100g light muscovado sugar
1 tbsp maple syrup or clear honey
1 1/2 level tsp mixed spice
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
A pinch of salt
1 tbsp bourbon or dark rum
3 medium-sized eggs
2 level tbsp plain flour
150ml double cream

For the topping
50g shelled pecans
1 tbsp light muscovado sugar

You will need a deep flan tin 23cm across and 3.5cm deep

First make the pastry. Sift the flour, ginger and icing sugar into a large bowl. Cut the butter into small cubes, cut the butter into the flour then rub lightly with your fingertips until the mixture is the consistency of coarse breadcrumbs. Mix the egg yolk with 2 tbsp ice cold water, add to the pastry mix, mix lightly and pull together into a ball, adding extra water if needed. Shape into a flat disc and refrigerate for at least half an hour. (You can also, of course make this in a food processor)

Next make the pumpkin pure. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Scrape away all the pumpkin seeds and fibres surrounding them and cut into even-sized chunks. Put the chunks on a piece of lightly oiled foil. Sprinkle over the bourbon, sugar and mixed spice and dot with the chilled butter. Bring the foil up round the sides and fold over carefully to form a loose but airtight package. Place on a baking dish and cook for 40 minutes until the pumpkin is soft. Carefully open up the foil, cool for a few minutes then tip the pumpkin and juices into a food processor or blender and whizz until smooth.

Roll out the pastry and lower into the tin. Trim the edges and press the base well into the tin. Prick lightly with a fork and chill for another half hour. Cover the pastry case with foil and weight down with baking beans or dried beans. Bake at 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 for about 12 minutes then remove the foil and beans, brush the base of the pastry with the reserved egg white to seal it and return to the oven for about 3-4 minutes. Remove the flan case and lower the oven temperature to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5 .

Add the sugar and maple syrup to the pumpkin puree, then the spices, salt and bourbon. Add the eggs one by one, beating them in well then sift in the flour and mix lightly. Finally add the cream and pour the filling into the flan case. Put the tin on a metal baking tray, transfer to the oven and bake for about 50 minutes until the filling is just set and firm, reducing the temperature to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4 after about 25 minutes.

About 10 minutes before the end of the cooking time chop the pecans finely (by hand, not machine - you don’t want to reduce them to a powder). Put them in a pan with the sugar and warm gently till the sugar starts to melt. Sprinkle the caramelized nuts evenly over the surface of the tart and return to the oven for 5 minutes. Take the tart out of the oven and cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting it. Serve lukewarm with lightly whipped, sweetened cream

What to drink: Muscats and moscatels go particularly well with this dessert

 

An easy Easter brunch for six

An easy Easter brunch for six

If you're planning ahead for Easter weekend and don't fancy doing the traditional big Easter Day lunch how about a brunch instead? Here's my menu for this time of year ...

I always try and lay on some kind of fruit compote or fruit salad but it’s a bit early for berries so I’ve suggested a dried fruit compote made with redbush tea and served with rich, creamy yoghurt.

The centrepiece is a twist on a traditional kedgeree from my book Food, Wine and Friends, made with smoked salmon - a real crowd pleaser and to finish, a couple of recipes for home-made muffins which I suggest should be freshly baked by any willing helper you can rope in. Or simply buy in some croissants, re-heat them and serve them with some good breads and toast and a range of interesting jams.

You can also set up your own juice bar (see my Beginners’ guide to juicing) or make my simple St Clement’s Punch.

Menu:

Dried fruit compote with redbush tea, cinnamon and honey
Smoked salmon kedgeree
Banana and honey muffins
Bacon, onion and Cheddar muffins
St Clement's Punch

Dried fruit compote with redbush tea, cinnamon and honey

I always have South African redbush (Rooibos) tea in the cupboard. It makes a great caffeine-free alternative to ordinary tea. You can also use it to make this delicious fruit compote.
Serves 6

3 redbush teabags
400g mixed dried fruit (I’d suggest about 100g each dried apricots*, prunes and figs, 50g dried apple or pineapple and 50g raisin mix which you’ll usually find in the fruit and vegetable section of the supermarket)
1-2 tbsp runny honey
1 stick of cinnamon
4 cloves
1 thinly pared slice of orange rind
50g whole almonds
Greek yoghurt to serve

Put the teabags in a jug, pour in 700ml of boiling water, leave to infuse for 4 minutes then remove the teabags. Put the dried fruit in a saucepan and pour over the tea. Add 1 tbsp of the honey, cinnamon, cloves and orange rind, stir and bring to the boil. Simmer the fruit for 5 minutes then turn off the heat and check for sweetness, adding the remaining honey if you think it needs it. Cover the pan and leave to cool. Remove the cinnamon stick, cloves and orange rind and add the almonds. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Spoon into individual glass bowls or dishes and top with a dollop of creamy Greek yoghurt
* I would use standard rather than organic apricots for this recipe because the colour is brighter.

Smoked salmon kedgeree

Kedgeree is an Anglo-Indian dish which stems from the days of the Raj. This party version is based on a relatively new product - lightly smoked salmon which gives it a particularly luxurious flavour. If you can’t find it use organic salmon and add a little bit of smoked salmon at the end when you add the prawns.
Serves 6

3 large fresh eggs
250g undyed skinless, boneless smoked haddock or cod fillet
250g lightly smoked skinless, boneless salmon fillet or ordinary salmon fillet
3 tbsp sunflower oil or other light oil
1 medium onion (about 125-150g) peeled and finely chopped
2-3 tsp good quality mild curry powder or pilau rice seasoning
300g basmatti rice
175g cooked peeled prawns, thawed if frozen
40g soft butter
2-3 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 heaped tbsp chopped fresh coriander leaves and a few whole leaves for decoration
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Prick the eggs if you have an egg pricker and lower them carefully into the water and boil for 10-12 minutes depending on the size of the eggs. Drain off the water, pour cold running water over the eggs then leave to cool in cold water.
Put the smoked haddock and salmon into a larger pan and pour over just enough cold water to cover. Bring gradually to the boil then once the water is bubbling, draw the pan off the heat and cover it with a lid or a piece of foil. Leave for 5 minutes then carefully remove the fish fillets. Pour the cooking water into a jug up to the 600ml mark and set aside.
Heat the oil in another heavy duty pan or casserole and fry the onion over a moderate heat for about 6-7 minutes until starting to turn dark brown at the edges. Sprinkle in the curry powder or rice seasoning (I use 3 tsp but use 2 if you want a slightly milder flavour). Add the rice, stir again and pour in the reserved water you used for cooking the fish. Bring to the boil then turn the heat right down and cover the pan. Cook for about 15-20 minutes until all the liquid has been absorbed.
Meanwhile shell and quarter the eggs. Set aside six quarters and roughly chop the rest. Flake the fish being very careful to remove any remaining bones. Once the rice is cooked, fork it through and tip in the cooked fish, prawns and eggs, cover the pan and leave for 5 minutes on a very low heat. Turn off the heat, add the butter, fork through, season with the lemon juice and a little salt and pepper if you think it needs it and fork through the chopped coriander. Serve on a warm platter decorated with the quartered eggs and the remaining coriander leaves.
* You can keep the kedgeree covered in the pan for about 15-20 minutes before serving it or transfer to a very low oven and keep it for about 30-40 minutes.

Banana and honey breakfast muffins

Makes about 12 small or 6 larger muffins

50g unsalted butter
2 tbsp clear honey (about 55g)
1 heaped tbsp natural unsweetened yoghurt
About 60ml milk
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
150g plain flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 level tsp salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 medium-ripe banana (yellow rather than green or speckled with black)
Unrefined caster sugar for topping

You’ll need 1 x 12 hole small muffin or tartlet tins and some small paper cases
Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Line the hollows in the tin with the paper cases. Gently heat the butter in a pan with the honey. Set aside and cool slightly. Put the yoghurt in a measuring jug and mix in enough milk to bring it to just over the 100ml mark. Stir in the vanilla extract. Sieve the flour into a bowl with the baking powder, cinnamon and salt and hollow out a dip in the centre. Pour the honey and butter mixture, beaten egg and yoghurt and milk into the flour and mix in lightly and swiftly with a large metal spoon to get a rough batter. (Don’t overmix - it doesn’t have to be completely smooth). Peel the banana, slice it thinly into the batter and fold in lightly so that all the slices are coated. Spoon the batter into the muffin cases and sprinkle each with a little caster sugar. Bake for about 20 minutes or until fully risen and well browned. Transfer the muffins to a wire rack and eat as soon as cool enough to handle.

Bacon, onion and cheddar muffins

Makes about 12 small muffins or 6 larger ones

1 tbsp sunflower or other cooking oil
75g cubed pancetta or bacon lardons
1 small onion (about 75g), peeled and finely chopped
50g butter
1 heaped tbsp natural unsweetened yoghurt
About 60ml milk
150g plain flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 level tsp salt
15g finely grated parmesan cheese
1 large egg, lightly beaten
40g coarsely grated mature cheddar cheese

You’ll need 1 x 12 hole small muffin or tartlet tins and some small paper cases

Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Line the hollows in the tin with the paper cases. Heat the oil in a small frying pan and fry the pancetta or lardons for a couple of minutes until they start to brown. Add the onion, stir and cook over a low to moderate heat for another 5 minutes until the onion is soft then set aside to cool. Gently melt the butter in another pan and leave to cool. Put the yoghurt in a measuring jug and mix in enough milk to bring it to just over the 100ml mark. . Sieve the flour into a bowl with the baking powder and salt. Add the parmesan and hollow out a dip in the centre. Pour the beaten eggs, melted butter and yoghurt and milk into the flour and mix lightly and swiftly with a large metal spoon to get a rough batter. (Don’t overmix - it doesn’t have to be completely smooth). Fold in the bacon and onions. Spoon the batter into the muffin cases and sprinkle each with a little grated cheddar. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until fully risen and well browned. Transfer the muffins to a wire rack and eat as soon as cool enough to handle.

St Clement’s Punch

A fresh, zesty citrus-based punch that’s packed with vitamin C. It obviously tastes best if you squeeze the fruit yourself but bought freshly squeezed juice is fine if you’re short of time
Serves 4-6

250ml freshly squeezed orange juice (about 4 oranges)
150ml freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice (1-2 grapefruit)
250ml chilled lemon refresher or traditional lemonade
1 tbsp Grand Marnier (optional)
Slices of orange and lemon to decorate

Simply pour the orange and lemon juice into a jug and top up with the lemon refresher and stir well. Add the Grand Marnier if using, stir again then add a few slices of orange and lemon to the jug and serve

What to drink
I think bubbly is by far the best wine by far for a brunch - champagne if you feel like splashing out but a good sparkling wine is perfectly good. I’d choose a blanc de blancs or sparkling chardonnay at this time of day - or an Italian prosecco. You can also, of course, make my low - or no-alcohol punch - and some fresh juices.

The photo which is not of my version of the salmon kedgeree but another one is © Martin Turzak - Fotolia.com. No reason why you can't add a few shell-on prawns though.

An alternative Burns Night supper for six

An alternative Burns Night supper for six

Haggis may be traditional fare for Burns' Night but let's face it, it's not everyone's cup of tea. So here's a Scottish inspired menu that I suspect you'll probably enjoy rather more (unless you're born and bred Scots, of course...)

Menu:

Warm mussel, leek and saffron tarts
Venison sausages with red wine and rosemary gravy, celeriac and potato mash and swede and carrot pure
Luxury bread pudding with whisky sauce

Warm mussel, leek and saffron tarts

These easy tarts (just a puff pastry base, in fact) were inspired by a visit to the Isle of Lewis off the north-west coast of Scotland where they grow wonderful small sweet mussels.

Serves 6

1 kg (2.2lb) fresh mussels
1 375g packed ready rolled all butter puff pastry (if you can find it I like the Dorset butter pastry which is available in Waitrose)
50 ml (2 fl oz) dry white wine
A good pinch of saffron (about 20 strands)
1 medium to large leek (about 200g/7oz)
40g (1 1/2 oz) butter
1 1/2 tbsp plain flour
50ml (2 fl oz) double cream
Freshly ground black pepper and sea salt to taste
A couple of sprigs of fresh parsley

Although these free-form ‘tarts’ look very impressive the beauty of them is that you don’t need to be remotely skilled at handling pastry to knock the dish together.

Tip the mussels into a sinkful of cold water and swirl them around. Remove them to a colander, change the water, replace them and go through each one with a small, sharp knife removing the slightly hairy looking ‘beard’ with a good yank. Place each one as you finish in a large bowl of water and leave to soak for at least half an hour. Drain them and discard any that are still open.

Preheat your oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7. Roll out the pastry. Cut lengthways into two then cut each half into three evenly sized squares. Place on a lightly greased baking sheet, prick with a fork then bake for 10-12 minutes until golden brown.

Bring 50ml (2 fl oz) of white wine or water to the boil in a large lidded pan then tip in all the mussels. Give the pan a good shake, put the lid on firmly then cook over a high heat for about 3 minutes shaking the pan a couple of times. Take off the lid and check that the mussels are open. If not replace the lid and cook another minute. As soon as they’re cooked remove the mussels from their shells and set aside. Strain the cooking liquor and measure out 150ml (5 fl oz). Then take another 2 tbsp and soak the saffron strands in a small bowl.

Thoroughly clean and finely chop the leek into rounds. Heat the butter slowly in a heavy bottomed pan then cook the leek for 10-15 minutes or until soft. Add the flour, stir and cook for a minute then add the reserved mussel liquor, bring to the boil, stirring and simmer for 5 minutes until thick. Strain and add the infused saffron water and the cream. Stir, then tip in the mussels and heat through for 2-3 minutes. Check the seasoning adding freshly ground pepper and a little salt to taste.

Place a square of pastry on each plate then spoon over the mussel mixture, dividing it evenly between each plate. Finely scissor snip some parsley over each plate and serve immediately.

Suggested wine match: a lightly oaked Chardonnay or Viognier

Venison sausages with red wine and rosemary gravy

You can cook your sausages in the oven but I prefer to do them slowly in a pan so that they go all sticky and gooey.

Serves 6

3 light olive oil or sunflower oil
900g (2 lb) venison sausages
For the gravy
2 tbsp light olive oil or sunflower oil
25g (1 oz) butter
3 medium red onions, peeled and finely sliced
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 rounded tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 rounded tbsp tomato paste
2 level tbsp plain flour
250ml (9 fl oz) full bodied red wine
250ml (9 fl oz) fresh beef stock or stock made with half an organic beef stock cube
Salt, freshly ground black pepper and tomato ketchup to taste

First put on the gravy. Put a large saucepan over a moderate heat, add the oil and then the butter. When the butter has melted tip in the onions, stir thoroughly then put the lid on the pan and cook on a low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 15-20 minutes until the onions are soft and golden.

Stir in the garlic and rosemary, cook for a few seconds then stir in the tomato paste and flour. Add the red wine and stock, bring to the boil then turn the heat right down and simmer for 15-20 minutes, adding a little water if it gets too thick.

Meanwhile heat a large frying pan (or two smaller ones), add the remaining oil and fry the sausages over a low heat, turning them frequently. These should also take about 20 minutes.

Check the seasoning of the gravy, adding salt and pepper to taste and a little tomato ketchup if you think it needs sweetening. (Yes, really! Serve the sausages with the gravy spooned over.

Suggested wine match: Any robust full-bodied red will do. I'd probably go for a Syrah or Shiraz just as I would for haggis.

Celeriac and potato mash

You can prepare this - and the swede and carrot pure below - ahead and reheat it just before serving.

1 bulb of celeriac (about 500-600g/1lb 2oz-1lb 5oz)
A couple of pieces of lemon peel
500g-600g/1lb 2oz-1lb 5oz boiling potatoes (e.g. King Edwards)
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 heaped tbsp crème fraîche
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Give the celeriac a good scrub then cut off the tough outer skin. The easiest way to do this is to prop it on a chopping board and cut downwards with a sharp knife. Once you’ve got most of the skin off, cut it in quarters then hold one in your hand and cut off any remaining bits of skin with a small knife. Cut into large cubes, put in a saucepan with a couple of bits of lemon peel and cover with boiling water. When it comes to the boil add salt then cook for about 15-20 minutes until soft. Drain well, reserving a little of the cooking water.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into equal sized pieces. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, add salt and cook until you can stick a knife through them without any resistance. Drain thoroughly and return to the pan to dry. Put the celeriac in a food processor and whizz until smooth, adding a little of the cooking water if it seems too dry and lumpy.Cut the potato into rough chunks then mash with a fork or potato masher until smooth. Add the olive oil and creme fraiche and beat well. Tip the pureed celeriac into the potato mash, mix well and season generously with salt and pepper.

Swede and carrot purée

Swedes on their own are a bit of an acquired taste so I like to add carrots - preferably organic ones which are much more flavourful - to the mixture.

1 medium swede (about 500-550g) peeled and cut into small cubes
3 medium carrots (about 250-275g), peeled and sliced
1 litre hot vegetable stock made with 1 tbsp vegetable bouillon powder or a vegetable stock cube
25g butter
1 tbsp low fat creme fraiche
Freshly ground black pepper + a little grated nutmeg
Salt and lemon juice to taste

Put the cubed swede and carrot in a medium sized saucepan and cover with the hot vegetable stock. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Strain, reserving the cooking water and put the vegetables in a food processor. Whizz them until smooth. Add the butter, creme fraiche and 1-2 tbsp of the vegetable cooking water and whizz again until smooth and silky. Season with plenty of black pepper, a little nutmeg and salt and/or lemon juice to taste. Reheat gently and serve.

Luxury bread pudding with whisky sauce

What you need for this recipe is a old-fashioned loaf with real texture and flavour If you don’t have a good baker nearby go for a healthy sliced loaf such as Vogel’s honey and oat bran with barley). Other ingredients are up to you depending on what have available but include a good selection of dried fruits. I think figs are particularly nice and the apple gives it lightness. The only ingredient you can’t do without is whisky, which makes the most wickedly delicious sauce.

Serves 6-8

100g (3 1/2 oz) dried figs
125g (4 1/2 oz) mixed dried fruit
100g (3 1/2 oz) large seedless raisins
2 tbsp whisky
250g (9 oz) two day old bread from a traditional style loaf
300ml (10 fl oz) full cream milk
1 medium (125g) eating apple (Cox’s are ideal)
The grated rind of half a lemon
2 tbsp coarse cut seville orange marmalade
75g (3 oz) light vegetable suet
2 tsp mixed spice
50g (2 oz) soft dark brown sugar
1 large egg, lightly beaten
A little grated nutmeg
For the whisky sauce
25g (1 oz) butter
60g (2 1/2 oz) soft dark brown sugar
3-4 tbsp whisky
142 ml (5 fl oz) whipping cream

Chop or scissor-snip the figs into small pieces and place in a bowl with the mixed dried fruit and raisins. Pour over 2 tbsp of whisky, stir well and put to one side. Crumble the bread into another large bowl and pour over the milk. Mix thoroughly and leave to soak for 30 minutes.

Peel and core the apple and grate roughly into the dried fruit. Add the finely grated lemon rind and marmalade and stir well. Mash the bread mixture vigorously with a fork to break down any lumps then add the fruit mixture, suet, mixed spice and sugar. Stir well, add the beaten egg and stir again. Turn into a lightly greased square 12.5 by 12.5cm (7 x 7 inch) baking tin, smooth the top and grate over a little nutmeg. Bake the bread pudding in a preheated oven ( 180° C/350° F/Gas 4) for 1 1/2 hours or until the top is nicely browned.

Just before serving gently warm the butter and sugar for the sauce in a small heavy bottomed saucepan. When the sugar has dissolved add the whisky and cream and bring to a slow simmer. Cook for about five minutes until the sauce begins to thicken. Cut the bread pudding into chunks, pour over the whisky sauce and serve.

Suggested wine match: Well if you're going to drink anything I'd make it whisky rather than wine but with the rich whisky-laced sauce I'm not sure you need it!

photo - obviously not of the original dish (sorry) - ©Artem Shadrin @fotolia.com

A vegetarian harvest supper

A vegetarian harvest supper

Before we finally plunge into winter here's a late autumn supper menu from my book Food, Wine and Friends that combines the best of autumn’s produce with a couple of convenience products.

Ready rolled pastry has made it wonderfully easy to knock up a quick, impressive tart while a simple dessert of grilled fruit dresses up a bought carton of ice cream. The soup can even be made ahead and frozen if you like.

Menu:
Pumpkin soup with honey and sage
Heirloom Tomato and Mozzarella Tart, warm new potatoes, Garden salad
Grilled figs with cinnamon and sweet oloroso sherry ice cream and brandy snaps

Pumpkin soup with honey and sage
This is based on a delicious soup I had at a restaurant called Tom’s Kitchen, run by top London chef Tom Aikens. His version, I discovered, contained chicken stock. Mine is vegetarian but you could of course base it on chicken stock too.

Serves 4-6

75g unsalted butter
1 small to medium onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 kg pumpkin or butternut squash, de-seeded, peeled and cut into cubes
2 heaped tbsp clear honey
3 sprigs of sage
750ml vegetable stock made with an organic vegetable stock cube or 1 level tbsp vegetable bouillon powder
75ml double cream
Lemon juice, salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Gently melt the butter in a large lidded saucepan or casserole. Add the onion and carrot, stir, cover and cook over a low heat for about 4-5 minutes. Add the cubed pumpkin or squash, honey and sage, stir, replace the lid and continue to cook very gently for about 10 minutes. Pour in the stock, bring to the boil and cook for about 10 minutes until the vegetables are soft.

Turn off the heat and allow the soup to cool slightly then remove the sage and sieve the soup, retaining the liquid. Put half the cooked vegetables into a blender or food processor with just enough of the reserved cooking liquid to blend into a smooth purée.

Transfer to a clean pan and repeat with the remaining vegetables, adding the puree to the first batch. Whizz the remaining liquid in the blender or food processor to pick up the last bits of puree and add that too. Bring the soup slowly to the boil then stir in the cream without boiling further.

Season to taste with lemon juice (about 1 tbsp), salt (about a teaspoon) and black pepper. Serve with an extra swirl of cream or scatter some crisp-fried sage leaves on top and serve with crusty wholewheat or multi-grain bread.

Heirloom tomato and mozzarella tart
There are so many beautifully coloured tomato and pepper varieties now it’s easy to make a really spectacular looking tart

Serves 4-6

375g ready rolled puff pastry
1 large or two smaller red peppers (about 225-250g in total)
1 large or two smaller yellow peppers (about 225-250g in total)
3 tbsp olive oil
2 whole cloves of garlic, flattened
4 heaped tbsp red pesto, fresh or from a jar
150g buffalo mozzarella, drained and finely sliced
125g red cherry tomatoes, de-stalked and halved
125g yellow cherry tomatoes, de-stalked and halved
1/2 tsp dried oregano or marjoram
1 medium egg, lightly beaten
A little freshly grated parmesan
A few basil leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Take the pastry out of the fridge at least 20 minutes before you need to unroll it.

Quarter the peppers, remove the pith and seeds and cut each quarter into half lengthways. Put them in a roasting tin with the garlic cloves, pour over 2 tbsp olive oil, mix together well and roast for about 20-25 minutes until the edges of the peppers are beginning to blacken. Remove and cool for 10 minutes.

Unroll the pastry and lay on a lightly greased rectangular baking tray. With a sharp knife score a line round the pastry about 1 1/4 cm from the edge. Spread the pesto evenly inside the rectangle you’ve marked. Lay the pepper strips across the base of the tart, alternating red and yellow sections. Tear the mozzarella slices roughly and distribute over the peppers. Grind over some black pepper. Arrange the halved tomatoes over the peppers, red on yellow and yellow on red. Rub the oregano or marjoram over the tart, season with a little salt and a little more pepper and trickle over the remaining oil.

Turn the oven heat up to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7. Brush the edges of the tart with the beaten egg and bake for 12 minutes or until the edge of the tart is well puffed up and beginning to brown. Turn the heat back down again to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 and cook for another 12-15 minutes until the tops of the tomatoes are well browned. Coarsely grate or shave a little parmesan over the tart then leave to cool for 5 minutes. Tear the basil leaves roughly and scatter them over the tart. Serve warm.

Steamed potatoes with butter, parsley and chives
Freshly dug potatoes have a wonderful, earthy, nutty taste that’s best shown off by steaming

1 kg of new or waxy salad potatoes such as Charlotte
40g warm melted butter
2 heaped tbsp freshly chopped parsley
2 tbsp finely chopped chives

Scrub the potatoes, leaving the skins on and cut into small even-sized pieces. Steam until tender (about 7-8 minutes). Put the potatoes in a serving dish, pour over the butter, sprinkle with the chopped herbs, season lightly with seasalt and freshly ground black pepper and toss together. Serve warm.

Garden salad
One of the nicest things to have with meal based on seasonal produce is a large, freshly picked salad of dark leafy greens, either from the garden or from the farmer’s market

2 tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
4 tbsp organic sunflower oil
200g mixed dark leafy greens such as rocket, spinach and watercress and even a few fresh basil leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of sugar (optional)

Whisk together the rice vinegar and sunflower oil in a large salad bowl, adding extra salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar to taste if needed. Tip the greens in the salad dressing just before serving and toss together.

Grilled figs with cinnamon and sweet oloroso sherry
An easy way to glam up a ready-bought carton of toffee or caramel ice cream

serves 6

6 ripe fresh figs
2 tbsp unrefined light brown soft sugar
1 tsp cinnamon.
15g butter
6 tbsp sweet oloroso sherry

Caramel, toffee or vanilla icecream to serve

Wash the figs carefully and pat dry. Halve and lay them cut side up in a buttered ovenproof dish. Mix the sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle over the figs. Put a knob of butter on top of each half fig and spoon over the sherry.

Place the dish on the lowest grill level and grill until the butter and sugar have melted and the figs are beginning to caramelise (about 5/6 minutes). Serve with caramel, toffee or vanilla ice cream, spooning over the warm sherry-flavoured syrup

Brandysnaps
One of those clever recipes which look incredibly difficult but which are in fact quite easy to make

2 tbsp golden syrup
75g unrefined light brown soft sugar
50g butter
50g plain flour
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp allspice

Preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas 3/325°F
You will need 2 large baking sheets lined with non-stick baking parchment

Measure out the golden syrup into a saucepan. (You’ll find this easier to do if you dip the spoon into a jug of boiling water and shake off the excess before you put it in the tin). Add the sugar and butter and heat very gently until just melted then take the pan off the heat. Don’t allow it to boil. Sift the flour with the ginger and allspice and mix thoroughly with the sugar, syrup and butter mixture.

Put four teaspoons of the mixture on the first baking sheet, allowing plenty of room for them to spread. Place in the oven and cook for 8-10 minutes or until the biscuits are a rich brown. Five minutes later repeat with the second baking tray*.

When you remove the first batch of biscuits leave them to cool for about a minute then ease them off the paper with a palatte knife. If you want them the traditional curled up brandy snap shape roll them straightaway round the handle of an oiled wooden spoon then place on a baking tray to cool.

Otherwise just leave them flat. Keep baking the mixture in batches of four until it is all used up. The biscuits will keep for 2-3 days in an airtight tin.

* the point about baking brandysnaps in batches is that it gives you time to roll them up while they’re still warm otherwise they’ll break rather than bend.

What to drink
Wine will of course go perfectly well with this menu (a Chardonnay, I suggest with the soup, a soft fruity red like Merlot with the tarts) but maybe I can make a case for artisanal cider which is undergoing something of a renaissance at the moment or perry, which is cider made with pears. I’d pick a medium-dry rather than a very dry one which should take you right through the first two courses. The dessert already includes alcohol in the form of a sweet oloroso sherry but you could serve a small glass with it too if you like.

Picture of pumpkin soup (not the above recipe) ©RitaE at Pixabay

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