An easy Easter brunch for six

If you're planning ahead for Easter weekend and don't fancy doing the traditional big Easter Day lunch how about a brunch instead? Here's my menu for this time of year ...

I always try and lay on some kind of fruit compote or fruit salad but it’s a bit early for berries so I’ve suggested a dried fruit compote made with redbush tea and served with rich, creamy yoghurt.

The centrepiece is a twist on a traditional kedgeree from my book Food, Wine and Friends, made with smoked salmon - a real crowd pleaser and to finish, a couple of recipes for home-made muffins which I suggest should be freshly baked by any willing helper you can rope in. Or simply buy in some croissants, re-heat them and serve them with some good breads and toast and a range of interesting jams.

You can also set up your own juice bar (see my Beginners’ guide to juicing) or make my simple St Clement’s Punch.

Menu:

Dried fruit compote with redbush tea, cinnamon and honey
Smoked salmon kedgeree
Banana and honey muffins
Bacon, onion and Cheddar muffins
St Clement's Punch

Dried fruit compote with redbush tea, cinnamon and honey

I always have South African redbush (Rooibos) tea in the cupboard. It makes a great caffeine-free alternative to ordinary tea. You can also use it to make this delicious fruit compote.
Serves 6

3 redbush teabags
400g mixed dried fruit (I’d suggest about 100g each dried apricots*, prunes and figs, 50g dried apple or pineapple and 50g raisin mix which you’ll usually find in the fruit and vegetable section of the supermarket)
1-2 tbsp runny honey
1 stick of cinnamon
4 cloves
1 thinly pared slice of orange rind
50g whole almonds
Greek yoghurt to serve

Put the teabags in a jug, pour in 700ml of boiling water, leave to infuse for 4 minutes then remove the teabags. Put the dried fruit in a saucepan and pour over the tea. Add 1 tbsp of the honey, cinnamon, cloves and orange rind, stir and bring to the boil. Simmer the fruit for 5 minutes then turn off the heat and check for sweetness, adding the remaining honey if you think it needs it. Cover the pan and leave to cool. Remove the cinnamon stick, cloves and orange rind and add the almonds. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Spoon into individual glass bowls or dishes and top with a dollop of creamy Greek yoghurt
* I would use standard rather than organic apricots for this recipe because the colour is brighter.

Smoked salmon kedgeree

Kedgeree is an Anglo-Indian dish which stems from the days of the Raj. This party version is based on a relatively new product - lightly smoked salmon which gives it a particularly luxurious flavour. If you can’t find it use organic salmon and add a little bit of smoked salmon at the end when you add the prawns.
Serves 6

3 large fresh eggs
250g undyed skinless, boneless smoked haddock or cod fillet
250g lightly smoked skinless, boneless salmon fillet or ordinary salmon fillet
3 tbsp sunflower oil or other light oil
1 medium onion (about 125-150g) peeled and finely chopped
2-3 tsp good quality mild curry powder or pilau rice seasoning
300g basmatti rice
175g cooked peeled prawns, thawed if frozen
40g soft butter
2-3 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 heaped tbsp chopped fresh coriander leaves and a few whole leaves for decoration
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Prick the eggs if you have an egg pricker and lower them carefully into the water and boil for 10-12 minutes depending on the size of the eggs. Drain off the water, pour cold running water over the eggs then leave to cool in cold water.
Put the smoked haddock and salmon into a larger pan and pour over just enough cold water to cover. Bring gradually to the boil then once the water is bubbling, draw the pan off the heat and cover it with a lid or a piece of foil. Leave for 5 minutes then carefully remove the fish fillets. Pour the cooking water into a jug up to the 600ml mark and set aside.
Heat the oil in another heavy duty pan or casserole and fry the onion over a moderate heat for about 6-7 minutes until starting to turn dark brown at the edges. Sprinkle in the curry powder or rice seasoning (I use 3 tsp but use 2 if you want a slightly milder flavour). Add the rice, stir again and pour in the reserved water you used for cooking the fish. Bring to the boil then turn the heat right down and cover the pan. Cook for about 15-20 minutes until all the liquid has been absorbed.
Meanwhile shell and quarter the eggs. Set aside six quarters and roughly chop the rest. Flake the fish being very careful to remove any remaining bones. Once the rice is cooked, fork it through and tip in the cooked fish, prawns and eggs, cover the pan and leave for 5 minutes on a very low heat. Turn off the heat, add the butter, fork through, season with the lemon juice and a little salt and pepper if you think it needs it and fork through the chopped coriander. Serve on a warm platter decorated with the quartered eggs and the remaining coriander leaves.
* You can keep the kedgeree covered in the pan for about 15-20 minutes before serving it or transfer to a very low oven and keep it for about 30-40 minutes.

Banana and honey breakfast muffins

Makes about 12 small or 6 larger muffins

50g unsalted butter
2 tbsp clear honey (about 55g)
1 heaped tbsp natural unsweetened yoghurt
About 60ml milk
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
150g plain flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 level tsp salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 medium-ripe banana (yellow rather than green or speckled with black)
Unrefined caster sugar for topping

You’ll need 1 x 12 hole small muffin or tartlet tins and some small paper cases
Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Line the hollows in the tin with the paper cases. Gently heat the butter in a pan with the honey. Set aside and cool slightly. Put the yoghurt in a measuring jug and mix in enough milk to bring it to just over the 100ml mark. Stir in the vanilla extract. Sieve the flour into a bowl with the baking powder, cinnamon and salt and hollow out a dip in the centre. Pour the honey and butter mixture, beaten egg and yoghurt and milk into the flour and mix in lightly and swiftly with a large metal spoon to get a rough batter. (Don’t overmix - it doesn’t have to be completely smooth). Peel the banana, slice it thinly into the batter and fold in lightly so that all the slices are coated. Spoon the batter into the muffin cases and sprinkle each with a little caster sugar. Bake for about 20 minutes or until fully risen and well browned. Transfer the muffins to a wire rack and eat as soon as cool enough to handle.

Bacon, onion and cheddar muffins

Makes about 12 small muffins or 6 larger ones

1 tbsp sunflower or other cooking oil
75g cubed pancetta or bacon lardons
1 small onion (about 75g), peeled and finely chopped
50g butter
1 heaped tbsp natural unsweetened yoghurt
About 60ml milk
150g plain flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 level tsp salt
15g finely grated parmesan cheese
1 large egg, lightly beaten
40g coarsely grated mature cheddar cheese

You’ll need 1 x 12 hole small muffin or tartlet tins and some small paper cases

Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Line the hollows in the tin with the paper cases. Heat the oil in a small frying pan and fry the pancetta or lardons for a couple of minutes until they start to brown. Add the onion, stir and cook over a low to moderate heat for another 5 minutes until the onion is soft then set aside to cool. Gently melt the butter in another pan and leave to cool. Put the yoghurt in a measuring jug and mix in enough milk to bring it to just over the 100ml mark. . Sieve the flour into a bowl with the baking powder and salt. Add the parmesan and hollow out a dip in the centre. Pour the beaten eggs, melted butter and yoghurt and milk into the flour and mix lightly and swiftly with a large metal spoon to get a rough batter. (Don’t overmix - it doesn’t have to be completely smooth). Fold in the bacon and onions. Spoon the batter into the muffin cases and sprinkle each with a little grated cheddar. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until fully risen and well browned. Transfer the muffins to a wire rack and eat as soon as cool enough to handle.

St Clement’s Punch

A fresh, zesty citrus-based punch that’s packed with vitamin C. It obviously tastes best if you squeeze the fruit yourself but bought freshly squeezed juice is fine if you’re short of time
Serves 4-6

250ml freshly squeezed orange juice (about 4 oranges)
150ml freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice (1-2 grapefruit)
250ml chilled lemon refresher or traditional lemonade
1 tbsp Grand Marnier (optional)
Slices of orange and lemon to decorate

Simply pour the orange and lemon juice into a jug and top up with the lemon refresher and stir well. Add the Grand Marnier if using, stir again then add a few slices of orange and lemon to the jug and serve

What to drink
I think bubbly is by far the best wine by far for a brunch - champagne if you feel like splashing out but a good sparkling wine is perfectly good. I’d choose a blanc de blancs or sparkling chardonnay at this time of day - or an Italian prosecco. You can also, of course, make my low - or no-alcohol punch - and some fresh juices.

The photo which is not of my version of the salmon kedgeree but another one is © Martin Turzak - Fotolia.com. No reason why you can't add a few shell-on prawns though.

What are the best pairings for pancakes?

If you’re planning a Pancake Day celebration for tomorrow and haven’t yet decided what to drink here are few ideas.

Like pasta the best match for pancakes depends on the topping or filling which can obviously be savoury or sweet. Very sweet - and hot - which can make the choice of an accompanying drink tricky.

Simple sugar and lemon pancakes
The classic British way. To be honest I prefer them on their own or with an aromatic cup of tea such as Lady Grey or Orange Pekoe but a sweet sparkling wine such as Moscato d’Asti or Clairette de Die should work if you don’t overdo the lemon. A sparkling ice-wine (the Canadian winery Inniskillin does one) would probably be perfect

Pancakes with fresh berries like strawberries, raspberries or blueberries
A sparkling rosé (or, of course, rosé champagne) with a touch of sweetness pairs well with this lighter style of pancake topping/filling. You could also try a sparkling framboise made with a raspberry liqueur topped up with sparkling wine.

Pancakes with golden or maple syrup
Tricky especially if the topping is maple syrup and the dish also includes bacon. Black tea or a black Americano coffee for me but them I don’t have a particularly sweet tooth. If you do you could always try an Australian liqueur muscat

Pancakes with chocolate sauce
A strong sweet red wine like port would probably work but might be just too much of a good thing. Black - or white - coffee again, if anything.

Pancakes with a cherry, apricot or other fruit compote
Very good with a complementary fruit beer - kriek with cherry-filled pancakes, a peach or apricot-flavoured beer with apricot filled ones. With apple and cinnamon filled crepes you could serve a conventional dessert wine - cooked apples suit most of them but I'd be tempted by a youngish Tokaji

Savoury pancakes with cheese and ham or spinach
Dry or sparkling cider is a great match for Breton-style pancakes, particularly if they’re made with buckwheat. Otherwise a smooth dry white wine such as a Pinot Blanc, Soave or Gavi will all work fine

Smoked salmon blinis
Champagne, sparkling wine or iced vodka

Crispy duck pancakes
Not a traditional Shrove Tuesday treat but while we’re in pancake mode . . . Hard to beat a good Pinot Noir

Image By Melica at shutterstock.com

How to throw a hot dog party

Given the runaway success of Big Apple Hot Dogs and Bubbledogs - London’s smash hit champagne and hot dog restaurant, it can only be a matter of time before you can pick up a dog on your local high street. But in the meantime you can throw your own hot dog party in if you follow these tips from my book Sausage and Mash

Throw in a bowl of homemade coleslaw and a batch of Tater Tots or hash browns and serve some kind of bubbly (which needn’t be champagne - see below) and you’re away.

Here are my some thoughts about the two all-important subjects, The Sausage and The Bun.

The Sausage
Must be a frankfurter. I’ve tried them with traditional English sausages and it’s just not the same. On cheap stalls they're heated through in simmering water but I like the smoky edge a barbecue gives them. A ridged grill pan creates a similar effect.

Pat them dry when you take them out of the packet and roll them lightly in sunflower oil. How long they’ll take depends on how fat they are. The standard supermarket frank will cook in about 3 minutes. A superior German-style frank (available from German owned discount stores like Aldi and Lidl and specialist delis) about 6-8 minutes.

The Bun
Should be soft but not soggy. Slightly crusty but not hard. The best place to find them is an independent baker. You want a long, deep roll about 12cm long and 7-8 cm deep (not that you’re obviously going to measure it). A supermarket finger roll is too soft.

There are two schools of thought about whether to toast it. Some like to open it up and give the inside a minute or so on the barbecue. Others prefer it just soft, split and filled. Either way don’t cut right through it but leave a hinge on the side.

If you feel really energetic you could make your own - there’s a recipe in my son Will's Hawksmoor at Home cookbook or top baker Dan Lepard has a great one here.

Five good fillings

The Classic
Two small or one large grilled or barbecued frank. A zig-zag of tomato ketchup. A zig-zag of French’s American mustard. If you feel like pushing the boat out you could add a sliced, sweet-and-sour pickled cucumber and some finely sliced raw onion

The Late Night Hot Dog Stand Special
Two franks as above with fried onions and French’s mustard. To avoid stinking out your kitchen use Eazy Fried onions (available in Tesco) with a few drops of balsamic vinegar mixed in. Otherwise just slice up a kilo of onions and cook them in loads of butter without colouring them for about 25-30 minutes.

The Chilli Dog
My favourite. Two franks as above plus a dollop of chilli (which should be made without beans - see here for an easy cheat's version), and a dollop of coleslaw or a slice of melting cheese (you don't want anything too classy)

The Copenhagen
Some of the best - and cheapest - dogs I've come across were in Copenhagen - a sausage, soft onions and crisp-fried onions (you could use those packs of dried ones you get in Asian supermarkets), celeri remoulade, sweet mustard and ketchup. Awesome.

The Wisconsin Brat
I admit I included this because I was so taken with the name. It should be made with a bratwurst but you can make it with two franks (as above) plus some soft fried onions, sauerkraut, a couple of rashers of crisp-fried bacon and a good squirt of French’s honey mustard. And a slice of Emmental if you really want to be gross (between the franks and the onions so it melts)

In each case the filling should be lukewarm rather than piping hot so that you can eat it straight away and the roll doesn’t go soggy.

It goes without saying that kids love to create their own. If you want to keep everyone happy at a weekend lunchtime this is the way to do it. You can get suggestions for other fillings from these websites

Bubbledogs
Bark Hot Dogs NY
Hot Dog City, the website of the National Hot Dog and Sausage Council (true. I kid you not)

The drink
Unless you’ve got money to burn I wouldn’t serve champagne: any champagne style sparkling wine based on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay will do the trick. Or, cheaper still, Cava (but not prosecco which is too light)

Other options would be:
An American IPA or, nowadays, a British one, so many brewers are brewing in this style. A ‘craft beer’ in other words. You may want to lay on a lager.

Dry German riesling
When I say dry I don’t mean totally dry but you want that fresh crisp, flowery style rather than the limey style of an Aussie riesling

A soft fruity red
Merlot would be ideal. Pinot Noir not so good.

Photo - not from the book - by Valentina_G at shutterstock.com

Celebrate the Chinese New Year with this delicious seafood supper

The Chinese New Year, which starts on February 1st, is one of those annual events that really captures the imagination. It is celebrated in such a colourful and joyous way and Chinese food is so delicious, quick and simple to make that I hope you won't be able to resist having a go at it, inauthentic though it absolutely is.

Buy in the dim sum and make the ice cream ahead and all you need make on the night is the stir-fry.

Menu:
A selection of dim sum
Luxury seafood stir fry, steamed pak choi
Stem ginger and almond ice cream, mandarin oranges and fortune cookies

A selection of dim sum

Frankly I think life is too short to make your own dim sum so unless you’re already an expert at rolling miniature spring rolls and making featherlight steamed dumplings I would order them in from your local takeaway or buy them ready made. The exception are these simple sesame prawn toasts which are easier to handle than the classic Chinese deep fried ones and can be prepared ahead and baked at the last minute

Sesame Prawn Toasts

Makes about 30 toasts

350g cooked, peeled prawns

2-3 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 tsp finely grated fresh ginger or ginger paste

1 tsp finely grated fresh garlic or garlic paste

1 1/2 tsp Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce

2 tsp light soy sauce

1/4 tsp sesame oil

1 medium egg white

1 tbsp ground rice

Salt, pepper and a pinch of caster sugar

About 5 thin slices white bread, preferably 2-3 days old

60-75g sesame seeds

Put the prawns in a food processor or blender along with all the other ingredients except the bread and sesame seeds and whizz until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate for an hour or two for the flavours to amalgamate.

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/Gas 8. Cut the crusts off the bread and toast lightly. Cool then spread each slice thickly with the prawn paste. Cut each slice into six. Put the sesame seeds into a shallow bowl. Press the prawn toasts upper side down lightly into the sesame seeds then lay them on baking trays. Bake for about 5-6 minutes until the toasts are warm and the sesame seeds lightly browned. Cool for 10 minutes then serve.

Luxury seafood stir fry

This recipe may look long and complicated but it’s simply a matter of assembling the ingredients and throwing them together at the last minute in a wok.

Serves 6

400g large prawns, thawed if frozen

200g fresh queen (small) scallops

1 level tbsp cornflour

200g broccoli florets (about two medium heads of broccoli) cut into smaller florets3 tbsp sunflower or light olive oil

4-6 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced

125g shitake mushrooms, wiped and finely sliced

1 large clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

1 knob of ginger about 2.5 cm square, peeled and grated

1/2 tsp Sichuan pepper or crushed chillies (optional)

Salt and freshly ground white pepper

For the sauce

225 ml light vegetable stock made with 1/2 an organic stock cube or 1 rounded tsp vegetable bouillon powder

Sieved juice of 1 large lemon (about 3-4 tbsp)

3-4 tbsp rice wine, sake or fino sherry

1 level tbsp caster sugar

1 level tbsp light soy sauce

1 rounded tsp cornflour

Reserve any liquid from the prawns and scallops. Pat them dry with kitchen towel and put in a large bowl. Sprinkle over the cornflour, season with 1 level tsp of salt and 1/2 tsp white pepper and toss thoroughly then set aside (in the fridge if you’re preparing the dish more than 30 minutes in advance) Microwave or blanch the broccoli in boiling, salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and set aside.

To make the sauce combine the stock in a jug with the lemon juice and 3 tbsp of the rice wine, sake or sherry. Stir in the sugar and the light soy sauce and check seasoning, adding more rice wine or other ingredients to taste. Mix the cornflour with 1 tbsp of water

When you’re ready to cook heat the wok, add 3 tbsp of oil and tip in the spring onions and sliced mushrooms. Stir fry for 2 minutes then add the broccoli, garlic and ginger. Stir fry another minute then season with sichuan pepper or crushed chillies if using. Tip in the seafood, the sauce and any liquid from the prawns and scallops and cook, stirring, until it comes to the boil (about 3 minutes) Add the cornflour and stir till thickened. Take off the heat and check the seasoning adding extra salt or pepper if needed. Serve with plain boiled rice and some steamed pak choi.

Stem ginger and almond ice cream

You can make this luxurious ice cream milder or stronger depending how much ginger you use. I’ve given quantities for 4 as it’ll fit into a standard ice cream machine. Just make the recipe twice to serve 6-8.

Serves 4

4-6 pieces of stem ginger + 3 tbsp of syrup from the jar

150ml Stone’s ginger wine

1 tbsp Cointreau or other orange liqueur + extra to serve

300g carton fresh custard

142ml carton whipping cream

A few drops of almond essence

Fortune cookies and mandarin oranges to serve

Chop the ginger very finely and place in a bowl. Put the syrup in a small saucepan with the ginger wine and Cointreau, bring to the boil and simmer for about 8-10 minutes until the liquid has reduced by about half. Pour over the ginger and cool for 10 minutes.

Transfer the custard into a large bowl and stir in the ginger and syrup. Whip the cream lightly and fold it into the custard, then add a few drops of almond essence to taste. Pour the custard into an ice cream machine and churn until firm, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Or, if you don’t have a machine, pour the mixture into a shallow dish or plastic container and place in the freezer then remove after 1 1/2 hours and whisk with an electric hand whisk. Repeat this freezing and whisking process 2 more times then leave until thoroughly frozen.

Store the frozen ice cream in a sealed plastic box and freeze for 24 hours.Transfer the ice cream to the fridge for 30 minutes before serving to make it easier to scoop. Serve with fortune cookies or another light crisp biscuit and tinned mandarin oranges drained and marinated in 2 tablespoons of Cointreau or another orange liqueur. Do give each person 8 segments - 8 is a sacred number in China and considered to bring luck and prosperity!

What to drink:
There are two ways to go with the wines for this menu - an aromatic white such as Riesling (I would recommend a young dry Riesling from Germany or Alsace), or a fruity Bordeaux rosé which is surprisingly good with Chinese food. I’ve also discovered that a good cold gin and tonic is exceptionally refreshing with fried dim sum such as prawn toasts and spring rolls although you could equally well serve a glass of Champagne or sparkling wine. Finish with a cup of delicate jasmine or chrysanthemum tea.