How to create a great Christmas cheeseboard

The question I’m often asked at this time of year is what makes the perfect Christmas cheeseboard. It’s as difficult a question as what makes the perfect Christmas lunch.

If you like - or your family expect - roast turkey and Christmas pudding that’s the perfect lunch for you. If you don’t it may be something quite different.

The theory behind a cheeseboard is to offer cheeses of different textures, flavours and shapes so that it looks attractive, includes a variety of tastes and everyone can find a cheese they like. These are the cheeses and styles that I would go for - leaving out stinky French cheeses which are best left to consenting adults ;-)

1) Stilton. In Britain this is the quintessential Christmas cheese and to be honest it’s hard to better it. The only cheese that arguably has the edge is Stichelton which is made to the same recipe but from raw milk (all Stilton these days is pasteurised) it’s slightly stronger than Stilton - a great blue cheese in my opinion. Try it with sloe gin, a delicious alternative to port

8 great drinks to match with Stilton

2) A good cheddar has a lot going for it. Most people like cheddar and you can always use it for cooking afterwards. The only issue is how strong it should be - some of the artisanal cheddars like Keen’s can be pretty funky though I do like a good Montgomery and my new favourite, Trethowan Brothers’ Pitchfork.

The best wine pairings for cheddar cheese

3) A semi-soft white-rinded cheese such as Brie or Camembert
Another popular choice but one that can cause trouble if you allow it to get overripe - i.e. at the stage where it’s virtually running off the cheeseboard a) because it won’t last very long and b) may well ruin whatever red you’re drinking with it. Try a similar English cheese such as a Tunworth or Baron Bigod.

Six of the best pairings for brie

4) A goats’ cheese
Not everyone likes goats cheese but it’s so versatile and, if you buy a young cheese, not particularly ‘goaty’. You can also use it to spread on crackers for a between blow-outs snack or to make a quick starter salad with some beets and leaves. And it goes with most dry wines (particularly with crisp whites like sauvignon blanc)

Top wine pairings with goat cheese

5) A sheep cheese
I like a hard sheep cheese on a cheeseboard, both because it’s the best type of cheese to match with a good red wine and because it means you have something to offer any guests who are dairy-intolerant. Good examples are Berkswell, aged Pecorino and Manchego (though try and find a matured version - supermarket Manchego can be bland) Also useful for rustling up some impromptu tapas with a few almonds, olives and slices of chorizo.

The best wine matches for sheep cheeses

Stand-alone cheeses
There’s nothing wrong with having one impressive cheese rather than a whole board of them. Stilton and cheddar could both perform this role but I quite like to offer something a bit unusual like a Vacherin Mont d’Or (which you can also bake in its box and serve hot like a fondue) or an aged Gouda. Deep orange Mimolette also looks wonderfully festive on a board decorated with apricots, figs and dates.

The best wine pairings for Vacherin Mont d’Or

For more festive inspiration and other cheeseboard ideas see my book Fiona Beckett’s Cheese Course.

Photo © Tatyana Berkovich at shutterstock.com

Thanksgiving Drinks: Festive Cocktails, Mocktails and More…

Thanksgiving has long been associated with harvest feasting, but what to drink with the holiday spread? While food may normally form the focus for your drink pairing choices, Thanksgiving - now more than ever - is as much about celebrating togetherness as it is about the turkey, stuffing, cranberries, and pumpkin pie.

Here are a few ideas for festive Thanksgiving drinks to help make the occasion even extra special.

Festive Fall Themed Cocktails

Many classic Thanksgiving flavours are also perfect for Thanksgiving cocktails. Think warm spices, cranberries, apple, caramel, and even pumpkin.

• Cinnamon Tamarind Margarita - The cinnamon and tamarind transform this normally summer drink into a warming cocktail perfect for autumn celebrations
• Pumpkin Spice Old Fashioned - Another classic bourbon cocktail with a spicy autumnal twist
• Hanky Panky - the choice Thanksgiving cocktail from our mixologist friends at Mixellany, made with gin, sweet vermouth, and Fernet Branca
• Sloe gin silver fizz - perfect if you’ve made your own sloe gin; a twist on a classic sloe gin fizz, shaken with egg white for a silky cocktail
• Cranberry Sour - Cranberry sauce in a cocktail - yes! From mixologist Myles Davies.
• Classic Manhattan - It’s hard to go wrong with a classic, and this bourbon-based cocktail with orange bitters is an apt match for classic Thanksgiving fare

For more cocktail making advice, check out How to make simple great cocktails from Bristol-based bar consultant and all knowing expert on great cocktails, Kate Hawkings.

Punch Bowls and Pitchers: Thanksgiving drinks for a crowd

Pitcher drinks and punch bowls are perfect for parties, particularly on Thanksgiving when you’re possibly too busy basting the turkey to make cocktails. Here’s a few Thanksgiving pitcher drinks you can make ahead:

• Spiced cranberry punch with fresh cranberries, ginger, and fresh citrus
• Pumpkin punch optionally served in an actual pumpkin!
• Autumn sangria with pomegranate, apple and cinnamon

Read on for some non-alcoholic punch bowl ideas!

Non-alcoholic Thanksgiving drinks

This non-alcoholic autumn Sangria is a bit like an amped up iced tea, with lots of flavour from pomegranate, apple, citrus, and cinnamon.

Rainbow Sherbet Party Punch - It’s not necessarily autumnal, but it’s a classic American family favourite punch bowl recipe that’s fizzy, colourful, and even good for kids.

When it comes to Thanksgiving mocktails, make them extra special by incorporating spices and herbs to provide extra complexity that you won’t otherwise get from the inclusion of booze. For example: Fiona’s Kaffir Lime Mojito, or this Blackberry and Sage Spritzer.

And of course you’ll find loads more mocktail recipes in Fiona’s book How to drink without drinking.

Hot drinks

Cold weather festivities are the perfect excuse for hot beverages like mulled wine or mulled cider (which you can also easily make non-alcoholic). And let’s not forgot hot rum punch and hot toddies!

Wine and beer

Of course, wine and beer are perfectly legitimate drink options and may just be the easiest choice if you’re planning a large gathering. In which case, what to choose that can cope with the myriad flavours on the table? You’ll find some ideas in these posts from the archive:

• How Thanksgiving sides can inspire your wine pairing
• Which beer pairs best with the Thanksgiving feast?

Top image by 5PH at shutterstock.com

How to host a tamalada (Mexican tamale-making party)

If you’ve never before heard of a tamalada then get ready for what could be the next best invention in food-based entertaining. A tamalada is is a traditional Mexican event where groups of family and friends gather together to make tamales, often around Christmastime. What’s a tamale? Let’s start there…

What are tamales and why do they make great party food?

Tamales are a traditional Mexican dish made of masa (a corn-derived dough), stuffed with various fillings, then steamed in a corn leaf or banana leaf. Tamales have a very long history in Mexico, originating in Mesoamerica as early as 8000 BC and were used by the Aztecs and Mayans as easily portable food for hunters, soldiers, and travellers.

Tamales are a wonderfully satisfying and delicious example of traditional Mexican fare with endless adaptations. Making them is also a bit of a labour of love - making the fillings, kneading the dough, stuffing the tamales, and assembling the parcels for steaming takes time and effort. And so, the tamale party was born, wherein everyone comes together to pitch in, stories are shared, and memories are made. Tamaladas are typically held in autumn and winter, particularly around Christmas as a multi-generational multi-family event. But there’s no reason you can’t hold a tamale party any time of year.

Photo by iotae via Flickr

How to make tamales

If you’re going to host a tamalada then it’s best to get acquainted with the steps involved in making a tamale. It’s a bit of an art form, and expect you and your guests to learn as you go. Here’s a summary with some useful links to get you started:

1. Assemble your fillings. Anything goes, really, and feel free to get creative here: meat, cheese, vegetables, beans, even fruit can work in a tamale. Pork in red chile sauce is a popular tamale filling, as well as shredded chicken with green salsa. For a vegetarian version, try these feta and sweet potato tamales, or sweetcorn with black beans and cheese. The options are endless!

2. Make the dough. The dough is made from masa harina, aka corn masa, combined with pork lard or vegetable shorting and stock. Rick Bayless’s basic tamal dough is a good recipe to get you started.

3. Assemble the tamales. A corn husk or banana leaf is usually used to wrap each tamale. This is where the artistry comes in. The dough gets smeared onto the husk, and then the trick is assembling just enough filling to be able to roll up the dough to totally encase the filling (it’s easy to overfill). Check out these step by step photos for a useful demo.

4. Steam the tamales for about 1 1/2 hours.

5. Serve ideally along side a selection of salsas, sauces and guacamole.

Where to get Mexican ingredients in the UK:

Depending on where you live, it can be tricky to get hold of corn masa and corn husks so you may need to order online. Here’s a couple places we like here in the UK:

• Otomi

• Cool Chilli Company

Hosting the tamalada

The whole idea with a tamalada is that everyone pitches in. These are typically family affairs so don’t worry excessively about being the perfect host; instead focus on creating a scene of togetherness that gets everyone involved.

• Create a space around a big table where everyone can gather.

• Invite guests to bring their own tamale fillings, appetizers, side dishes, or drinks.

• Give a quick demonstration of how a tamale is made

• Let your guests loose in making tamales of their own

• Once the tamales are made, enjoy the feast!

A tamalada is as much about eating together as it is cooking together. Have fun opening the parcels and tucking in. Make it a feast with a few Mexican side dishes and drinks to match.

Photo by Monica Shaw

What to drink at a tamale party

You’ll want to keep your wits about you while making the tamales, so start with an agua fresca (‘fresh water’) such as this cucumber agua fresca from Wahaca’s Thomasina Miers which can be made ahead.

For drinks, you’ve got options. For cocktails you can never go wrong with a great margarita. Or for something a bit different, try this Tanqueray Mexican Collins.

Picking a wine or beer pairing for a tamale is going to very much depend on the filling. Check out these posts for some inspiration

• Wine beer and other pairings for Mexican food
• Some great food pairings for tequila

Monica Shaw developed her love of tamales while living in Austin, Texas. She writes about food and nature on her website Eat Sleep Wild while supporting other writers through her online portfolio site at Writer’s Residence.

A Hallowe’en supper for 4-6

With Hallowe’en coming up the track here’s a sophisticated supper for those of you who don’t have to go out trick or treating . . .

Hot Chilli Butternut Squash Soup

Butternut squash makes terrific soup with a super-smooth velvety texture and fabulously festive colour.

Serves 4-6

1 large butternut squash (about 1-1.2kg)
4 tbsp sunflower or light olive oil
1 large onion - or 2 medium ones - peeled and roughly chopped
2 cloves of garlic
1 1/2 tsp each of coriander, cumin and paprika
A good pinch of saffron (about 20 filaments)
1 1/2 x 400g cans premium peeled plum tomatoes
850ml homemade vegetable stock or stock made with Marigold vegetable bouillon powder
Salt
About 1/2 tsp hot pepper sauce - or more to taste

To serve:
3 fresh corn tortillas
250ml corn or sunflower oil
1 small carton sour cream
3 tbsp picked coriander leaves

Heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Wipe the butternut squash with a damp cloth, cut in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Put 2 tbsp of the sunflower oil in a roasting tin, turn the squash in the oil then lay them in the tin cut side down. Bake for about 40 minutes until soft. Remove from the oven and set aside for 10-15 minutes until cool enough to handle.

Meanwhile soak the saffron in 2 tbsp of warm stock. Fry the onion gently for 10 minutes in the remaining oil until soft but not coloured. Add the crushed garlic, cumin, coriander and paprika and cook for a minute then add the plum tomatoes and their juices. Crush them with a wooden spoon and cook for about 5 minutes until you have a pulpy sauce.

Scoop the pulp out of the squash, place half of it in a blender or food processor along with any juices in the baking tin, and half the tomatoes, onions and soaked saffron and blitz until completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Pour the soup back into a large saucepan and stir in the stock. Add hot sauce and salt to taste.

To serve cut the tortillas into fine strips. Heat 250ml of corn oil in a wok over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes and drop in the tortilla strips a few at a time. They should puff up and crisp in about 15 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen towel. To serve ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle over a swirl of sour cream, top with a few strips of crispy tortilla, and scatter over a few coriander leaves.

Wine suggestion: Big buttery chardonnays go well with butternut squash or you could try a viognier.

Beef, Fig and Chestnut casserole

I was inspired to make this by an article by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall in the Guardian which suggested using chutney as a quick way to add flavour to a tagine. Coincidentally there was a jar of fig relish sitting on the counter of my local butchers which, together with a glut of red wine left over from a tasting, prompted me to make this deliciously festive recipe.

Serves 4-6

1 kg thickly sliced shin (leg) of beef, preferably organic
4 tbsp sunflower or light olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and thickly sliced
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, scrubbed and cut into chunks
1 1/2 tsp mixed spice
1/2 tsp smoked pimenton or paprika
1 tbsp tomato paste or 2 tbsp tomato ketchup
1 tbsp plain flour
250ml full-bodied red wine + extra to finish the dish
250ml beef stock made with 1/2 an organic beef stock cube
2 tbsp fig relish or conserve (I used Trucklements organic fig relish)
100g vacuum packed chestnuts
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cut the beef up into generously sized chunks, cutting away any excess fat (but not the connective tissue which will give the stew its flavour). Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a casserole or frying pan and brown the meat well on all sides (you might need to do this in two batches) Remove the meat from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the remaining oil to the pan and fry the onions over a low heat until beginning to soften (about 5-6 minutes). Add the garlic, cook for a minute more and then add the carrots, stir and fry for a couple more minutes. Sprinkle the vegetables with mixed spice and pimenton, stir and cook for a few seconds then stir in the tomato paste and the flour. Cook for a minute then add the red wine and stock. Bring to the boil, stirring until thickened then stir in the fig relish.

Return the meat and any juices to the pan, bring back to simmering point then cover the pan and turn the heat down to the lowest possible setting (or put in a low oven ( 150° C/300° F/Gas 2). Cook for 3 - 3 1/2 hours until the meat is completely tender. If the stew is cooking too quickly (the top should barely tremble) turn the heat down or remove the lid (You can also do this if you want to thicken the sauce). You can cool the stew at this point and reheat it later or refrigerate it and serve it the next day.
When you’re ready to serve the stew, add the chestnuts and about half a glass of red wine and heat through.

Check the seasoning adding salt and pepper to taste. It should be quite rich and sweet but if you find it too much so (it will depend on the fig conserve and the wine you use) add a few drops of red wine or balsamic vinegar and cook until the vinegar taste disappears. You could serve this with mash (or a mixture of mashed swede and carrot) or pureed parsnips and a dark leafy green vegetable such as spring cabbage or cavolo nero.

What to drink: an Australian shiraz is excellent with this dish but you could also try an Argentine Malbec.

Roast pumpkin and pecan pie

This recipe may look slightly daunting but I promise you it is worth the effort (and the satisfaction of being able to use the leftover pumpkin from your pumpkin lanterns). You can use a can of pumpkin puree and ready made sweet pastry or a precooked pastry shell to save time but it won’t taste quite as good. Obviously you could also serve this at a Thanksgiving dinner.

Serves 6

For the pastry
250g plain flour
1 tsp ground ginger
2 tbsp icing sugar
110g chilled butter
25g Cookeen or other vegetable shortening
1 egg yolk (save the white)
Pinch of salt

For the pumpkin puree
500g pumpkin flesh
1 tbsp bourbon or dark rum
1 tbsp light muscovado sugar
1/4 tsp mixed spice
15g chilled butter

For the pie filling
The pumpkin puree as described above
100g light muscovado sugar
1 tbsp maple syrup or clear honey
1 1/2 level tsp mixed spice
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
A pinch of salt
1 tbsp bourbon or dark rum
3 medium-sized eggs
2 level tbsp plain flour
150ml double cream

For the topping
50g shelled pecans
1 tbsp light muscovado sugar

You will need a deep flan tin 23cm across and 3.5cm deep

First make the pastry. Sift the flour, ginger and icing sugar into a large bowl. Cut the butter into small cubes, cut the butter into the flour then rub lightly with your fingertips until the mixture is the consistency of coarse breadcrumbs. Mix the egg yolk with 2 tbsp ice cold water, add to the pastry mix, mix lightly and pull together into a ball, adding extra water if needed. Shape into a flat disc and refrigerate for at least half an hour. (You can also, of course make this in a food processor)

Next make the pumpkin pure. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Scrape away all the pumpkin seeds and fibres surrounding them and cut into even-sized chunks. Put the chunks on a piece of lightly oiled foil. Sprinkle over the bourbon, sugar and mixed spice and dot with the chilled butter. Bring the foil up round the sides and fold over carefully to form a loose but airtight package. Place on a baking dish and cook for 40 minutes until the pumpkin is soft. Carefully open up the foil, cool for a few minutes then tip the pumpkin and juices into a food processor or blender and whizz until smooth.

Roll out the pastry and lower into the tin. Trim the edges and press the base well into the tin. Prick lightly with a fork and chill for another half hour. Cover the pastry case with foil and weight down with baking beans or dried beans. Bake at 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 for about 12 minutes then remove the foil and beans, brush the base of the pastry with the reserved egg white to seal it and return to the oven for about 3-4 minutes. Remove the flan case and lower the oven temperature to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5 .

Add the sugar and maple syrup to the pumpkin puree, then the spices, salt and bourbon. Add the eggs one by one, beating them in well then sift in the flour and mix lightly. Finally add the cream and pour the filling into the flan case. Put the tin on a metal baking tray, transfer to the oven and bake for about 50 minutes until the filling is just set and firm, reducing the temperature to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4 after about 25 minutes.

About 10 minutes before the end of the cooking time chop the pecans finely (by hand, not machine - you don’t want to reduce them to a powder). Put them in a pan with the sugar and warm gently till the sugar starts to melt. Sprinkle the caramelized nuts evenly over the surface of the tart and return to the oven for 5 minutes. Take the tart out of the oven and cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting it. Serve lukewarm with lightly whipped, sweetened cream

What to drink: Muscats and moscatels go particularly well with this dessert