Lyndey Milan’s Aussie-style barbecue lunch

One of the highlights of my trip to Australia a few years ago to celebrate the World’s 50 Best restaurant awards was lunch at one of their best known cookery writers Lyndey Milan’s in Sydney

We all sat round a big table and ate this marvellous menu to show off Aussie produce. I loved the structure of the meal - a few oysters to start with, the incredibly fresh, zesty marinated fish, the richly spiced barbecued lamb and salad then simple platters of cheese and fruit - so easy to do at home.

I persuaded Lyndey to give me two of the recipes so do give them a try.

Coriander cured seabass with daikon, shiso and a ginger shallot dressing

Lyndey attributes this recipe to Time Browne, executive chef of the Sydney showground but has given it a couple of twists of her own. She used barramundi in the original version but says you could equally well use any firm-textured fish. You can also use whatever micro leaves you can get hold of.

Serves 6

Ingredients:

500gm seabass fillet (no skin or bones)

Cure

1 bunch coriander

100g rock salt

100g caster sugar

Zest of 1 lime

Salad

1 Daikon radish

1 cucumber

1 punnet micro shiso leaves

1 punnet micro mizuna lettuce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Dressing

2 tbsp fresh ginger

6 shallots

1 tablespoon lime juice

¼ cup soy sauce

½ tsp caster sugar

2 tsp sesame oil

3 tbsp grape seed oil

Method:

In a food processor blend the coriander, salt, sugar and lime zest to a smooth paste. Rub the paste all over the barramundi and refrigerate for 3 hours to cure. (Be sure to cover all of the fish to ensure even curing).

Using a moist clean cloth, rub all the paste off the barramundi.

Cut barramundi into thin slices.

For the salad:

Shave the daikon and cucumber into a bowl. Add the sesame seeds and toss lightly.

For the dressing:

Thinly slice the ginger and shallot. Place in a heat proof bowl with lime juice, soy and sugar

Heat the sesame and grape seed oils together in a pan until they reach smoking point. Pour over the ginger and shallot mixture. (Be careful as the oil is hot). This will sear the ginger and shallots and bring all the flavours together. Allow to cool.

Arrange seabass slices and salad on a plate. Spoon the dressing over the barramundi and salad. Scatter with micro leaves and sprinkle with extra toasted sesame seeds.

Macadamia crusted butterflied lamb with ‘okkah’

Lyndey writes: “The okkah (Australian dukkah) for this recipe is inspired by my friend chef Ray Kersh from the legendary Edna’s Table which championed indigenous ingredients for 30 years.”

Prep: 20min

Cooking: 20 min plus resting time

Serves: 4 as a main or 8 as part of a menu

1.5kg butterflied shoulder of lamb

2 tbls (40ml) extra virgin olive oil

Macadamia Okkah

1/3 cup unsalted macadamias

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

3 teaspoons coriander seeds

3 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 teaspoons wattle seeds (optional)

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon sea salt Flakes

coarsely ground black pepper or native pepperberry

1. For macadamia okkah; preheat oven to 180’C (160’C fan) place macadamia, sesame, coriander, cumin, wattle and fennel seeds on a paper-lined oven tray. Toast for 5 – 8 minutes, or until lightly fragrant. Cool then process with salt and pepper. This makes 1 ¼ cups.

2. Pre-heat BBQ to high. If lamb is uneven in thickness, beat with a rolling pin or meat mallet between two double sheets of plastic wrap. It may be easier to cut into two flattish pieces. Rub with oil and then rub all over with around ½ cup okkah.

3. Seal lamb for 5 minutes on each side, or until browned. Reduce heat to medium low and continue to cook for another 10 minutes on each side, turning as often as needed to prevent burning. Cook more for well done, less for rare.

6. Remove lamb and rest, loosely cover with foil for 10 minutes. Slice thickly and sprinkle with some extra okkah if desired

Lyndey’s Note: this recipe makes 1 ¼ cups okkah but only ½ cup is needed for this recipe. Store the remainder in an airtight container or serve with fresh bread and extra virgin olive oil.

© Lyndey Milan. This recipe first appeared in Selector Magazine Nov/Dec 2016

WARNING: this recipe includes nuts

What to drink:

Lyndey suggests a sauvignon blanc or a sake with the seabass but in fact we drank a McLaren Vale Fiano on the day. A Hunter Valley semillon would also work well. With the lamb we drank a Stargazer pinot noir from Tasmania which was a really good match.

The best crackers for cheese (and wines to drink with them)

Cheese and crackers. Simple, right? Maybe—but the right combination can make all the difference. The best crackers for cheese don’t just hold things together; they add texture, contrast, and a little magic to each bite. Some pairings are obvious, others surprising. Let’s explore. 

Cheese and crackers - humble beginnings

“Cheese and crackers” was a school lunchbox favourite when I was a kid. The crackers, always a Ritz, and the cheese, some kind of Wisconsin cheddar. This American tradition of combining cheese with a thin wheat-based product actually goes back centuries. Among many things it was a food ration in the Civil War where soldiers referred to it as a “square meal”. Much like the UK equivalent of the ploughman’s lunch, cheese and crackers was very much peasant food. But much like my taste buds, which probably couldn’t stand a Ritz cracker nowadays (no offence to Ritz fans), a lot of has changed.

Today, cheese and crackers have transcended their humble origins to become an almost ubiquitous and elevated party food, achieving artisanal status where the cracker is as crucial as the cheese. No longer confined to my lunchbox, this convivial pairing now graces a myriad of social gatherings, from casual picnics to sophisticated dinner parties. And for those of us who also enjoy wine, it adds an extra layer of fun pairing challenges. What wine - and what cracker - to pair with your favourite cheese?

And although we’re talking cheese and crackers here, you can apply the same wine pairing principals to all manners of cheese boards, cheese platters, and cheese plates. (And if you’re new to matching wine with cheese, check out our Wine and Cheese Pairings for Beginners guide).

Cracker Evolution

Image credit: Tiarra Sorte

 

Over the last several decades, crackers for cheese have undergone a significant evolution, moving beyond simple accompaniments to become sophisticated, diverse, and artisanal products. And if we’re talking wine pairings with cheese and crackers, the crackers can often play a role as much as the cheese. Think about the flavour implications of the cracker (r)evolution:

1. Diversity of Ingredients: Traditional wheat-based crackers have expanded to include a wide variety of ingredients such as whole grains, seeds (like sesame, poppy, or flax), herbs, and spices. Their expanded flavour profile can have a distinct influence on the wine you might choose to drink.
2. Ancient Grains: Cracker producers are increasingly using trendy ancient grains like quinoa, amaranth, and spelt in their recipes, each of which bring a unique flavour to the mix.
3. Thin and Crispy Varieties: While thicker, more substantial crackers still have their place, there’s a trend towards thinner and crispier options which brings to the fore whatever cheese you happen to be serving with the cracker.
4. Flavored and Seasoned Options: Crackers now come in a plethora of flavors - sea salt, pepper, rosemary, garlic, truffle, seaweed, you name it. Again, flavour variations that impact whatever your serving with the cracker, be it cheese, wine, or both!

10 Popular Crackers and Their Most Complimentary Cheeses

1. Water Crackers: Think Carr’s water crackers or Jacob’s cream crackers, these plain and neutral crackers are widely available and a versatile choice that won’t overpower the flavors of delicate cheeses like Brie or fresh goat cheese. That said, they’re a bit “basic”.
2. Crisp Bread or Flatbread: Here in the UK, Peter’s Yard has taken the crispbread market by storm, popularizing the concept with their artisan thin sourdough rye crisp breads and various flavor iterations such as plain, whole grain, or seeded. They work well with a variety of cheeses, particularly those with robust flavors. And if you can’t find crisp bread in the shops, try making your own.
3. Multigrain Crackers: Packed with different grains and seeds, multigrain crackers add an extra layer of texture and flavor. They pair nicely with aged cheeses like cheddar or Gouda.
4. Rye Crisps: Think Ryvita here, thicker crackers with a robust and slightly tangy flavor. They can be a meal in themselves and tend to complement stronger cheeses like blue cheese or smoked gouda.
5. Rosemary or Herbed Crackers: Crackers infused with herbs like rosemary or thyme are best with soft cheeses like camembert or with goat cheese.
6. Seeded Crackers: The examples of these, both store-bought and home-made are endless (try these pumpkin seed crackers or these easy seeded crackers with everything bagel seasoning for a start). Seeded crackers bring a distinct nutty flavor and crunchy texture and pair well with a variety of cheeses, including hard and aged varieties, though I personally like the texture juxtaposition of a soft goats cheese with a super seedy cracker, and maybe a fig or cranberry chutney (more on chutneys below!)
7. Ritz Crackers or Wheat Thins: Yes, the Ritz! No judging if this still has a place on your cheese platter. These slightly sweet and buttery crackers can be versatile and work with a range of cheeses, though I’d say they’re best suited to a mild cheddar so you don’t drown out the flavour of the Ritz.
8. Graham Crackers: Not just for s’mores! While traditionally associated with sweet treats, graham crackers can be a unique choice for pairing with certain cheeses, especially those with sweeter profiles.
9. Flavoured Crackers: I’m talking anything with unique ingredients like fruit olive oil, truffle oil, or anything else that packs a gourmet flavour punch. As for the cheese, it really depends, but with strongly favoured crackers it can often be best to go with a milder cheese. Let the cracker shine.
10. Toast for cheese: Like those from the Fine Cheese Company, thin crispy toasts studded with dried fruits and nuts. These are a lot of fun and given the fruit element, tend to go well with strong blue cheeses like Stilton or a soft goats cheese.

Image credit: Lindsay Moe on Unsplash

Crackers For Your Favourite Cheeses - And the Best Wines To Drink With Them

1. Brie:
• Best Cracker: Water crackers or French baguette slices
• Best Wine: A bright fruity red like a Beaujolais or a crisp rosé
2. Camembert:
• Best Cracker: Rye crispbread or French baguette slices
• Best Wine: A Côtes du Rhône but - whisper it - I prefer cider with Camembert
3. Cheddar:
• Best Cracker: Multigrain crackers, or skip the cracker and go for apple or pear slices
• Best Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon is great as is - perhaps surprisingly - a rich chardonnay
4. Aged Gouda:
• Best Cracker: Rye crispbread, wheat crackers, or pumpernickel
• Best Wine: tawny port or dry oloroso sherry are both delicious with gouda
5. Blue Cheese:
• Best Cracker: Something fruity (for example the toast for cheese mentioned above), or go left field with a ginger snap or graham cracker
• Best Wine: Zinfandel, primitive or other southern Italian reds. Or a late bottled vintage port
6. Goat Cheese (Chevre):
• Best Cracker: Herbed crackers, or something fruit with figs or apricots
• Best wine: sauvignon blanc by a country mile
7. Gruyère: 
• Best Cracker: Whole grain crackers, seeded crackers or sourdough crispbreads
• Best Wine: Similar wine matches to Comté. A chardonnay or savagnin from the Jura would be delicious - or any mature chardonnay come to that
8. Manchego (and other sheep cheeses):
• Best Cracker: Olive oil and sea salt crackers
• Best Wine: Rioja, preferably a reserva.
9. Epoisses:

1. Best Cracker: Better with a baguette than a cracker
2. Best wine: Tricky! Try a gewürztraminer or a strong Belgian Trappist ale

10. Parmesan:
• Best Cracker: Crostini or olive oil flatbreads
• Best Wine: A great foil for a good Italian red like a Chianti Classico or a Brunello

Bonus: Elevate your Cheese and Crackers - and Wine! - with Pickles and Chutneys

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention chutneys, pickles and other accoutrements which can further enhance your cheese though they can detract from your wine. If you’re serving a chutney I wouldn’t pour a fine wine (simple reds like Côtes du Rhône are fine) but would often go for a beer or cider instead.

Here are my 7 favourites, with cheeses to match. For more, check out how to take your cheeseboard to the next level with homemade pickles.

1. Cranberry Chutney:
• Cheese Pairing: Brie, Goat Cheese
• Why: The tartness of cranberry chutney complements the creamy and mild nature of Brie, and it adds a zesty kick to the earthy flavors of goat cheese.
2. Caramelized Onion Chutney:
• Cheese Pairing: Blue Cheese, Camembert
• Why: The sweet and savory notes of caramelized onion chutney provide a flavorful contrast to the intense and salty profile of blue cheese, and it complements the milder taste of Camembert.
3. Quince Paste:
• Cheese Pairing: Manchego
• Why: A Spanish classic. The sweet and dense quince paste pairs beautifully with the nutty and salty flavors of Manchego, creating a balanced and delicious combination.
4. Piccalilli:
• Cheese Pairing: Cheddar
• Why: The tangy and slightly spicy flavors of piccalilli enhance the sharpness of Cheddar, creating a vibrant and dynamic pairing.
5. Pickled Onions:
• Cheese Pairing: Gouda, Cheddar
• Why: The tangy and crisp pickled onions complement the rich and nutty profile of Gouda, while also adding a zesty kick to the sharpness of Cheddar.
6. Fig Chutney:
• Cheese Pairing: Blue Cheese, Goat Cheese
• Why: The rich, earthy flavor of fig chutney pairs well with the bold and salty notes of blue cheese. It also enhances the earthy and tart qualities of goat cheese.
7. Farmhouse Pickle:
• Cheese Pairing: Cheddar, Gruyère
• Why: The savory and tangy farmhouse pickle adds a delightful contrast to the sharpness of Cheddar and complements the nutty flavor of Gruyère.

Learn more:

Wine and Cheese Pairings for Beginners

Matching cold cuts, cheese and chutney

Pairing wine and cheese: 6 ways to do it better

Monica Shaw developed her fondness for cheese and crackers while growing up in the Midwest near Chicago. She’s the author of Eat Sleep Wild while supporting other writers through her online portfolio site at Writer’s Residence.

Main image credit: baibaz at shutterstock.com

 

A Valentine’s dinner for lazy lovers

Whatever you get up to on Valentine’s night (and truly, I’d rather not know) my guess is you’ve got better things to do than spend it slaving over a hot stove. So this is an unashamed cheat’s menu from the archives for you to romance your loved one with the absolute minimum of effort.

Needless to say, buy only the very best ingredients.

Smoked salmon and caviar blinis

Cute and tasty! And I’m talking about the blinis . . .

Serves 2

100g (3 1/2 oz) best quality (i.e. wild or, at the very least, organic) finely sliced smoked salmon
30g (1 oz) jar of caviar or a caviar substitute
A packet of miniature blinis
3 heaped tbsp crème fraîche
A little finely grated lemon rind

Mix the crème fraîche with a little finely grated lemon rind (Go easy. You don’t want it to be too lemony.) Arrange the smoked salmon artistically on the blinis, top with a blob of creme fraiche then spoon over a little caviare. That’s it.

Hot buttered lobster with garlic, basil and ginger

Strictly this dish is best made from scratch with a live lobster but butchering a lobster doesn’t strike me as the perfect prelude to a night of seduction.

(serves 2)

1 medium to large cooked lobster
60g (2 1/2 oz) butter
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
Juice of 1 small lime (about 2 tbsp)
1 tsp freshly grated ginger
14-16 basil leaves, finely shredded
Salt and cayenne pepper

Place the lobster, underside downwards on a chopping board and cut through it vertically with a large sharp knife. Carefully remove the white meat from the tail and remove the long thin membrane near the back. Remove the claws and crack them with lobster crackers or hit them smartly with a mallet. Carefully remove the meat, breaking it up as little as possible. Pick out any remaining white meat from the shell, scrape out the rest and discard. Cut the meat into largeish chunks.

Carefully transfer the empty shells to an ovenproof baking dish and reassemble the lobster meat in the shells. Preheat the grill. Melt the butter gently in a saucepan, stir in the garlic, lime juice and ginger and cook for a minute. Add the basil and season with salt and pepper. Spoon carefully over the lobster then place the baking dish under a hot grill for about 4 minutes until you can hear it begin to bubble. Serve with a rocket salad and chips or new potatoes.

Iced vodka and lemon sorbet

Those of you who’ve never tried frozen vodka may be amazed to discover that it doesn’t actually freeze if you put it in the freezer. But it becomes wonderfully cold and syrupy. This looks fantastic in frozen martini glasses. Leave them in the freezer compartment until you’re ready to serve up (or if there isn’t room fill them with ice and a little water then pour it out and dry them just before you spoon in the sorbet.

A ‘frozen’ bottle of vodka (keep in the freezer compartment until you need it)
A carton of good quality lemon sorbet

Take the sorbet out of the freezer and put it in the fridge about 20 minutes before you plan to serve it to make it soft enough to scoop. Spoon out a couple of generous scoops and place them in each frosted glass. Pour over 2-3 tbsp of frozen vodka. Await gasps of admiration.

* You can obviously make this with other sorbets. Raspberry goes well with vodka too

What to drink:
Quality rather than quantity is the name of the game on Valentine’s night (you don’t want to end up snoring . . . ) One good bottle of Champagne will see you through the first and second courses and the dessert contains its own alcohol. If you prefer, however, you could drink Champagne with the blinis and switch to a good white burgundy or top quality Chardonnay with the lobster.

Picture - not of the exact recipe - by BBA Photography at Shutterstock.com

How to celebrate wassail at home

Even if you don’t go out wassailing over the next couple of weeks there’s no reason why you can’t throw an impromptu wassail party at home if you have an apple tree in your garden. Or even if you don’t . . .

Wassailing is an old English custom celebrated mainly in the cider-making areas of Somerset and Herefordshire, the idea being to protect the cider apple trees from evil spirits and to encourage a good crop in the coming season.

It takes place on or around January 17th, the old twelfth night. One of the best is at The Ethicurean at Wrington just outside Bristol though I’m not sure they’re doing one this year. Google ‘wassail 2022’ or check out the hashtag #wassail on Twitter for other events.

What generally happens is that pieces of toast soaked in cider are placed around the oldest or finest tree in the orchard, cider is poured round the base then shot guns are fired into the upper branches, buckets are beaten and a general cacophony of noise made to scare away evil spirits and wake the sleeping trees.

If you’re doing it at home I’d strongly advise dispensing with the shot guns and simply bang some saucepans and do a lot of shouting which the children will enjoy hugely. Adults too probably. You can also chant this wassailing poem

Old apple tree, we wassail thee,
And hoping thou wilt bear
For the Lord doth know where we shall be
Till apples come another year.
For to bear well, and to bear well
So merry let us be.
Let every man take off his hat,
And shout to the old apple tree!
Old apple tree, we wassail thee,
And hoping thou wilt bear
Hatfuls, capfuls, three bushel bagfuls
And a little heap under the stairs
Hip! Hip! Hooray!

It’s traditional to serve mulled cider and apple cake to celebrate wassail. I found a lovely recipe for a wassail cup in the Apple Source Book taken from Henrietta Green’s Festive Food of England and there’s a good recipe for Somerset cider cake in River Cottage Baking.

You can find my own recipe for mulled cider here and a non alcoholic version below for those of you who are having a Dry January.

Mulled apple juice

Use the recipe as a basic guideline, adding more sugar or honey if you like it sweeter.

Serves 12

2 x 75 cl bottles cider apple juice* or other unsweetened apple juice
1 orange stuck with 10 cloves
2 oranges, sliced
2 lemons, sliced
6 level tablespoons granulated sugar or honey
5 cm piece cinnamon stick
2 level teaspoons finely grated fresh root ginger or ground ginger

Put all the ingredients in a saucepan and heat to simmering point, stirring until all the sugar has dissolved. Keep it barely at simmering point for at least 20 minutes. This can be made in advance, then re-heated just before the party.

* You should be able to buy cider apple juice in a health food shop or farm shop. If not use a dry apple juice (such as russet) or add a couple of tablespoons of cider vinegar to a good quality blended apple juice.

Mulled cider image ©zi3000 at fotolia.com. Wassail image © Bill Bradshaw