I’m beginning to wonder if there’s anything manzanilla doesn’t pair with - or fino, come to that. Of course, there is but both sherries do seem to be brilliant at dealing with the tricky customers of the culinary world, especially pungent salty ones like anchovies and capers.
I had this particular combination at the recently opened Rockfish Grill in Bristol - anchoïade is a creamy anchovy pure from the south of France which is generally served with raw vegetables or crudités. The usual wine match would be a Provençal white or rosé but I really loved this combination with chilled tangy sherry.
It makes me think that manzanilla would be a feasible - though unconventional - partner for that Piedmontese speciality bagna cauda. It also pairs well with olive-based spreads such as green and black tapenade (especially the green version) and creamy, smoky purées such as brandade (salt cod) and baba ganoush which is made from grilled or roast aubergines.
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