I’m in Chablis for a couple of days this week and last night enjoyed one of the classic local pairings: a basic Chablis and a dish of Jambon à la Chablisienne - thick slices of ham in a cream, tomato and white wine sauce. This version also had a touch of tarragon which cut the richness of the sauce. It contained all the elements that kicks a young Chablis into touch - saltiness (of the ham), acidity (the tomato) and richness (the cream), a perfect counterfoil to Chablis’ own crispness.
The restaurant, a friendly bistro called La Feuillette 132, which has the unusual virtue in France of being open on a Monday night (and the rest of the week, it appears) is operated by an enterprise called La Cave du Connoisseur which sells a range of competitively-priced Chablis under their own label from the shop next door. It also supplies the restaurant’s very decent carafe wine.