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Which young chefs are the rising stars in France?
Gault Millau has identified 22 ‘jeunes talents’, which it defines as chefs under 32, in its 2009 restaurant guide, which is published this week.
I haven't had time to check out which dpartements the towns listed are in (the numbers are in brackets) but here's the list:
Thomas Berry - La Cuiller Pot, Strasbourg (£67)
Patxi Massonde - La Maison Oppoca, Ainhoa ( £ 64)
Rodolphe Regnauld - Auberge du Pont, Pont-du-Chteau ( £ 63)
Frdric Doucet - Restaurant Frdric Doucet, Charolles ( £ 71)
Mathieu Aumont - Aux Pesked, Saint-Brieuc ( £ 22)
Amandine Gachet - Aux Marais, Plaimpied-Givaudins ( £ 18)
Brice Buffet - Les Echevins, Mouzon ( £ 08)
Laurent Michel - La Fleur de Sel, Pinarello ( £ 20), Sainte-Lucie-de-Porto Vecchio
Marc Tupin - Hostellerie Saint-Germain, Saint-Germain-les-Arlay ( £ 39)
Bertrand Grbaut - L'Agape, Paris XVIIe
Mathieu de Lauzun - Restaurant de Lauzun, Gignac ( £ 34) (This is our nearest rising star down in the Languedoc!)
Sbastien Proux - Chteau de la Cazine, Noth ( £ 23)
Jean-Christophe Cordel - Le Bistrot Saint-Jean, Bar-le-Duc ( £ 55)
Romain Brard - Le Genty Magre, Toulouse ( £ 31)
David Bve - N'Autre Monde, Lille ( £ 59)
Christophe Barjettas - La Malle aux pices, Auderville ( £ 50)
Christophe Poirier - La Licorne Royale, Lyons-la-Fort ( £ 27)
Alexandre Arnaud - La Forge, Saint-Georges-Buttavent ( £ 53)
Richard Baima - Le Julianon, Senlis ( £ 60)
Xavier Taffart - L'Aquarelle, Breuillet ( £ 17)
Gilles Pradines - L'Esprance, Bandol ( £ 83)
Yoann Conte - Les Jardins du Mont-Blanc, Chamonix ( £ 74)
It’s interesting to see yet another accolade for a restaurant in Toulouse which is becoming quite a foodie destination
Gault Millau also identified six ‘grands de demain’ (tomorrow’s greats):
Alsace
Pascal Bastian 16/20 Auberge du Cheval Blanc - 4 rue de Wissembourg, Lembach.
Languedoc-Roussillon
Fabien Lefebvre 15/20 Octopus - 12 rue Boeldieu, Bziers.
Midi-Pyrnes
Patrice Gelbart 15/20 Aux Berges du Crou - rue du Pont, Salles.
Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur
Geoffrey Poesson 15/20 La Badiane - 6 rue Fernand-Bessy, Sainte-Maxime.
Rhone-Alpes
Laurent Rigal 15/20 L'Alexandrin - 83 rue Moncey, Lyon.
Stephane Froidevaux 15/20 Fantin Latour - 1 rue Gnral-de-Beyli, Grenoble.
(From our point of view, it’s interesting that Gault-Millau singles out Octopus which we haven't previously rate as highly as our neighbouring O Bontemps at Magalas. But we’re quite relieved as it’s already near-impossible to get a table at the latter!)
The restaurants which have risen in the rankings this year are Le Chateau de la Chevre d'Or at Eze-Village and L'Auberge du Vieux Puits Fontjoncouse which both now have four toques and 19/20; L'Hostellerie de Plaisance at Saint-milion goes up to 18/20 and there are five new restaurants at 17/20:
L'Espadon, Paris Ier,
Lasserre, Paris VIIIe,
Le Restaurant Jean-Luc Tartarin, Le Havre,
L'Auberge des Glazicks, Plomodiern (note, Brittany is putting itself on the gastronomic map!)
Jacques Decoret, Vichy
And the top awards for the year go to:
Mauro Colagreco (Mirazur, Menton) - Cuisinier de l'anne (chef of the year)
Pascal Vuillemin (Le Rive Gauche, Tours) - Rvlation de l'anne (discovery of the year)
Chateau de la Muire (L'Assiette Champenoise, Tinqueux) - tablissement de l'anne (Restaurant of the year)
Alexandre Jean (L'Astrance, Paris) - Sommelier de l'anne
Vronique Abadie (L'Amphitryon, Lorient), Directrice de salle de l'anne (restaurant manager of the year) (Another Brittany restaurant . . .)
I’ll try and take in at least a couple of these over the next few months and report back.
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