Forget Chablis, Champagne and Guinness, for once. There are other things to drink with an oyster, including - shock, horror - red wine. I would be perfectly happy to drink a young, inexpensive, fruity red Bordeaux with Hugh’s first recipe for oysters with chorizo and garlic butter - and so would most of the Bordelais who enjoy a very similar dish with a little spicy sausage patties. (Admittedly a sharp white Bordeaux, Verdejo or Rueda would also work well.)

Whenever oriental flavourings are introduced with oysters, however, I tend to reach for a riesling. Hugh’s oyster fritters with chilli dipping sauce would be great with a limey Clare Valley Riesling or other dry rieslings from elsewhere (such as Alsace and southern Germany). The same applies to two of his other serving suggestions: a dressing of finely chopped fresh coriander, garlic, green chilli, lime juice, fish sauce and a pinch of sugar.or soy sauce, grated ginger and finely chopped spring onion. You could also try an Australian Verdelho, a zesty Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills or an inexpensive sparkling wine - white or rosé - which works much in the same way as a refreshing beer with seafood.

With Hugh’s more indulgent ways of serving oysters - with butter, shallots and tarragon; cream, black pepper and parmesan and breadcrumbs, gruyère and parsley you could turn to an oak-aged chardonnay. Not too assertive a one - you want cream and toast rather than a tropical fruit cocktail and that will tend to come from cooler regions such as Burgundy, New Zealand and cool areas of South Africa and Chile.