The Times is serialising Gordon Ramsay’s new book Cooking for Friends at the moment and you can find some of the recipes online. Three are described as ‘light lunches’ which makes me think of alternatives to wine - beer, cider or, for many, a soft drink. Here are my suggestions:

Goats Cheese, Beetroot and Lentil salad
Normally Sauvignon Blanc is the first bottle to reach for when goats’ cheese is mentioned but combined with earthy beetroot and lentils I’d prefer a fruity red - a good Beaujolais, Valpolicella Ripasso, Dolcetto or Merlot, I’d suggest. If I was looking for a beer I’d probably go for a strong golden ale like Duvel. If I wasn’t drinking I’d pour a pomegranate juice.

Linguine with lemon, feta and basil
The problem with fresh lemon in recipes, as I’ve pointed out before, is that it tends to knock the lemon flavours out of any accompanying drink so go instead for a neutral Italian white like a Pinot Grigio or Verdicchio. You can also pair Italian reds successfully with lemony pasta dishes - again a Valpolicella would go perfectly well. This isn’t a natural beer or cider dish (a light lager would be the best option) and I wouldn’t particularly want to accompany it with a soft drink. San Pellegrino or other sparkling water would be my non-alcoholic pick.

Devilled mackerel with horseradish potatoes
With its oily fish, spicy butter and kick of horseradish this is quite a punchy recipe - better suited to a light lager (a Kolsch, I suggest) rather than a wine. If you do want to serve wine with it I’d suggest a sharp lemony white like a Greek Assyrtiko or a Spanish Rueda. And I think I’d actually enjoy a good artisanal apple juice with this too.

Cider and honey roast leg of lamb
Cider is the obvious pairing but I regret to say that most people are going to feel short-changed if you serve it (though you might still put it on the table for them to try). Otherwise it’s lamb’s usual partner, a medium to full-bodied red - a Chianti, possibly, or maybe a modern Spanish red such as the really delicious Finca l’Argata Monsant 2005 from Juan d’Anguera I tasted this week (£12.95 from Tanners) Again, apple juice would probably be the best soft option.