Tannery - has success spoiled this iconic Irish restaurant?

publication date: Aug 20, 2008

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author/source: Fiona Beckett

It must be around 8 or 10 years ago that I first went to Tannery. At that stage it was in the vanguard of modern Irish cuisine and I remember being hugely impressed by Paul Flynn’s bold, assured cooking. Maybe those memories have acquired a rosy hue over the years that the original experience didn’t quite justify but I found myself feeling slightly disappointed at our recent meal there.

Clearly I’m in a minority. Georgina Campbell has just nominated Flynn chef of the year in her current guide and on a Saturday night the place was rammed with most tables turning at least twice. And that, I suspect, is the problem. Flynn strikes me as a small restaurant chef running a big restaurant, better suited to 40-50 covers than the 100 plus I’m sure he’s now handling.

We admittedly had some very good dishes. A fabulously wobbly garlic and saffron mousse with mussels and leeks (right). A clever, modern charcuterie plate from Fingal Ferguson (the son of Tom and Giana Ferguson who make Gubbeen cheese) - though my husband, having been brought up in France, was a bit sniffy about the quantities. A perfectly executed dish of slow-cooked lamb with creamed cabbage, black pudding and field mushroom broth served with some unctiously rich, creamy potatoes.

And then a real shocker of a dish, which I probably shouldn’t have ordered - roast monkfish with serrano ham, baked peach and little gems with sherry cream dressing which tasted like the sort of dish a sous chef would come up with for a lunchtime special but which should never have found its way on the main menu. Serrano and monkfish works as a combination. Ham and peach works but peach and monkfish are not nice together especially with a very gloopy creamy dressing. And the monkfish didn’t taste particularly fresh (though I can't for the life of me think why it wouldn't have been).

To their credit they dealt with it impeccably. The waitress spotted that I hadn't finished it, reported it to Mrs Flynn who asked why we hadn’t liked it and took it off the bill. In fact the service generally couldn’t have been better. They willingly decanted our rather muscular Pic St Loup (one of the few affordable bottles on a generally pricey list) within minutes of our request.

The dessert we shared - strawberries in prosecco with fromage blanc sorbet - was also a bit dull: the strawberries - unsurprisingly after days of rain - tasting a bit watery, the sorbet a little bland, the whole over-chilled. Again, maybe not the best thing to have ordered.

Saturday night is never the ideal night to judge a restaurant let alone in the middle of August and all things considered it was a perfectly good meal but not a great one. A little of that magic I remembered had gone.

Tannery also has some very nice bedrooms in a townhouse across the road though don’t expect the full Irish breakfast experience. You serve yourselves from the provisions they leave in the fridge and outside the room. They’re also opening a cookery school this autumn.

www.tannery.ie

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