publication date: Mar 8, 2008
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author/source: Fiona Beckett
The first feature in my new Weekend Wine Matching series pairs some unusual steak recipes from Jason Atherton of Maze (one of Gordon Ramsay's most successful London restaurants) who fills in for Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall in the Guardian this week.
Grilled rib-eye steak with pomelo, avocado salad and lime
A spin on a Thai-style beef salad with some punchy flavours (raw onions, shallots and nam pla) and a lot of acidity in its salad accompaniment - pomelo (Asian Grapefruit) and lime which takes it away from the usual big red one would recommend with a straightforward chargrilled steak. I think it would just about handle a red - I’d go for a medium-bodied Shiraz but my preference would be for a zesty Australian Clare Valley riesling. You could even serve a big fruity rosé - the kind that are more like a red than a pink. Well chilled, of course.
Grilled beef satay with marinated cucumber
Again there are some powerful flavours in this marinade - ginger, garlic, Thai fish sauce and sugar, an accompanying peanut sauce with chilli, ginger, soy and sugar and a cucumber side dish dressed with fish sauce, white vinegar and lime. So you have the classic Asian sweet, sour and hot combination to deal with. Jason recommends a cold Tiger beer with this which isn’t at all a bad idea. Otherwise I’d go for an inexpensive Alsace pinot gris.
Grilled quail with raspberry micro herbs and walnuts
An intensely fruity Pinot Noir from New Zealand or Chile strikes me as the best choice for this dish which has a powerful dressing of soy sauce, walnut oil and raspberry puree. The quails are also served with walnuts and raspberries. Or if you were feeling adventurous (and if you’re making this you probably are) you could serve a raspberry flavoured beer such as Liefman’s Frambozen.
Braised beef short ribs with mustard and carrots
A much more traditional dish, inspired, Atherton says, by his trips to New York. The classic French style sauce with its flavouring vegetables and copious amounts of red wine, port and veal stock is a classic for a serious red such as a youngish Bordeaux or Californian Cabernet Sauvignon.
Victoria Moore, the Guardian's wine writer, also tackles what to drink with roast lamb this week recommending a range of Rhone reds