Do we actually need Michelin any more?

Yesterday I wrote a review of the new UK Michelin guide which some of you may have seen on decanter.com. A few hours further reflection has made me even more incredulous about the absence of any new two or three star awards this year, despite the well deserved awards to Claude Bosi's new Hibiscus and overdue 'rising two' for Tom Aikens.

As I pointed out in my Decanter piece, the awards leave London lagging behind New York, Paris and Tokyo in the gastronomic hierarchy with only one three-starred restaurant (Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road) compared to 3 in New York, 8 in Tokyo and 10 in Paris. The city also performs poorly at two star level with only 5 two-starred restaurants compared to 6 in New York, 13 in Paris and 25 in Tokyo.

Where have these Michelin inspectors been? Why a star for the Mirabelle and no star for Galvin at Windows? Why no star for the splendid Scott’s which won The Tatler/Roederer restaurant of the year award earlier this week or for the clever, inventive Bell’s Diner in Bristol? Why three stars for The Waterside and not Le Gavroche? Why does Gordon Ramsay keep his 3 stars at Royal Hospital Road when his chef has just changed?

Michelin is supposed to be the gold standard for restaurant reviewing, professional, impartial, consistent. These rewards suggest the very opposite - sloppiness, bias and inconsistency. It’s as if Michelin has decided Britain is The Place Where You Go to Pubs and Eat Ethnic Food which presumably accounts for the ridiculous amount of Bib Gourmand awards (Michelin’s award for restaurants that offer good value food).

Chefs set great store by Michelin but I’m not sure we should any more, in the UK at least.

Tomorrow I’ll report on my meal last night at one of this year’s rare winners, Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus

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Do we actually need Michelin any more?

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