Looking back at my predictions for 2007 most of them look like continuing through 2008 but there are some changes of emphasis and new trends emerging.
Big in 2008
Wine-centred bars and restaurants
The most interesting trend I’ve spotted is major chefs getting into wine. Of course top restaurants have always had extensive wine list (they account for most of their profit) but they haven’t necessarily made wine or food and wine matching a big feature. Now in 2008 we have Alain Ducasse opening Adour in New York with wine matches for every dish, Daniel Boulud with his wine and charcuterie-centred Bar Boulud (charcuterie looks like another strong trend) and Joel Robuchon opening his own wine shop in Paris.
In the UK it’s been sommeliers who have led the trend - with Thierry Thomasin (ex-Gavroche, ex Aubergine) setting up his own place Angelus, ex Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons sommelier Xavier Rousset going into partnership with ex Manoir head chef Agnar Sverisson at Texture and Gerard Basset, co-founder of the Hotel du Vin group setting up a similar hotel TerraVina in Hampshire. And Jonathan Downey, one of London’s smartest bar owners is opening a private club called the World Wine Room. I suspect there’ll be more.
More ‘taste-and-try’ experiences
The big hit of 2007 was the Islington-based, The Sampler which offered ‘tasters’ of around 80 bottles at any one time, some of them very serious wines indeed. Selfridges followed suit with their Wonder Bar but were forced by Westminster City Council to sell in standard by-the-glass sizes. But it’s still a fun place to experiment, as is Fortnum & Mason's 1707 wine bar. More and more restaurants are now following in the steps of Arbutus and serving wine by the mini-carafe which again makes exploring the world of wine much easier. And much more fun
Local food, local drinks
The buzz-word this year does look like being 'local' rather than 'organic'. So far that’s mainly translated into chefs using local ingredients but I’ve spotted more sourcing local drinks such as beers, ciders and liqueurs too. According to a recent survey by YouGov on behalf of Good Earth teas over a quarter of us are saying we’re going to buy local whenever possible. Good for the environment, good for farmers.
A new respect for vegetables
Certainly among the French. Gault Millau took the unprecedented step of nominating Jean-Luc Rabanel of L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel in Arles their chef of the year for 2008, a chef whose menu revolves around vegetables he grows himself. Watch out for more chef-gardeners and vegetable-led menus.
More natural wines
Leading Californian winemaker Randall Grahm’s decision to list the ingredients in his wines is bound to put the spotlight on other, less scrupulous producers. Apparently over 200 additives are regularly used in modern winemaking. Wouldn’t you like to know what they are?
More smart food shops and food halls
A state-of-the-art designer food hall seems to be the new must-have accessory for every department store and shopping centre Witness John Lewis’s new food hall and the forthcoming Food Inc at Whiteleys in Bayswater which is being set up by former Harvey Nicks’ food hall mastermind Dominic Ford. Ford was also involved in the La Rinascente food hall in Milan which along with Eataly in Turin makes Italy a must-go mecca for the dedicated gourmet shopper.
Molecular mixology
We’ve had molecular gastronomy (some of us have had too much of it, admittedly) but 2008 looks like switching the spotlight onto mixologists (aka bartenders) who can transform the chemistry of cocktails. The man to watch is Nick Strangeway whose new list at the revamped Fifth Floor bar at Harvey Nichols has been creating the big buzz in London this winter.
2007 trends that are still going strong in 2008
Beer and food matching
It’s slow admittedly, but it’s steady. Beer is being taken increasingly seriously as a partner for food. Latest evidence, a two day conference called Savor: An American Craft Beer & Food Experience next May in Washington bringing together speakers from the worlds of food, beer and wine.
Soft drink menus
And why not? Makes sense to offer non-drinkers something more interesting (and profitable) than water and commercial fruit juices with their meal. Take a look at the delectable soft drinks at Green Zebra and in Chicago. Smartly picked up by the city’s best known chef Charlie Trotter who now has his own beverage tasting menu.
Cool tea-rooms
Another beneficiary of the widespread desire to maintain a healthy lifestyle, tea-rooms are still mushrooming and more and more exotic teas are being offered on-line. Enjoy our own focus on tea this month.
Rosé every way
Not so much a revival these days, more like a rampage. Although it’s still represents a minority of wine drunk, rosé is still storming onwards and upwards. Not least because it’s such a flexible partner for food.
Trends that have stalled or are in decline
Spirits and food matching
The whisky producers keep trying to persuade us that whisky is a great match for food (most recently Indian and Italian) but why go there when there are so many better pairings? Even when the spirits are turned into cocktails they don’t seem to grab the dining public. But I’m sure the big brands will keep trying.
Cider-drinking
The Magners bubble has burst and with it, for the present, the momentum behind cider as a partner for food. Pity. But it may be the beneficiary of the ‘drink local’ movement mentioned above. In France, I’ve noticed, it’s as popular as artisanal beer. Ridiculously cheap too.
